contact sensors and switching off lights

WayneW said:
22/4 is fine for motions.

Yes you do need some wire (or typically a premade cable) to connect the M1 to your lighting interface. But those are usually mounted within the same area as the M1, so you generally don't need any in-wall wiring.
Hmmm :) lighting interface :D It's getting more confusing.

I know that home security is separate from lighting. I think a diagram will really help me a lot. I still don't see any physical connection from the lighting technologies( UPB, INSTEON, X10,...) to the head end. Now there is a lighting interfce.

Help me please. I really am new to HA. I drew a picture and let me know how bad the wire connectivity is. :D

light_elk_wiring.gif
 
v1rtu0s1ty said:
Help me please. I really am new to HA. I drew a picture and let me know how bad the wire connectivity is. :)
This picture from Electron shows an Elk M1EZ8 with 3 serial modules (the back boxes)
http://www.mydotsoft.com/products/my.Galle...me/PA211541.JPG

This picture shows a plug-in UPB lighting interface
http://automatedoutlet.com/product.php?pro...&cat=145&page=1

Now just imagine that UPB module plugged in someplace below the first picture and one of the gray serial cables connecting them. Very Simple.
 
Have a look at these brochures:

http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/M1_Modular_...er_Brochure.pdf
http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/M1_Family_Literature.pdf

They may help a bit. Just think of the M1 as a hub, the device that ties all the other components together. The M1 has an RS485 bus that various expanders and option ties into. Those components are listed in the brochures above.

Specifically, for lighting, you have a PIM (Powerline Interface Module) that plugs into the wall outlet on one end and a serial expander (via serial cable) on the other. The serial expander connects to the controller via the bus. So the M1 can send and receive signals over the powerline (x10, Insteon and UPB) to devices such as wall switches, appliance modules, etc. anywhere in the house. Zwave is wireless and is similar but has a dedicated interface box.

So the M1 'sees' all of these things connected to it and can control them via the rules which are programmed in the RP software that comes with the M1.

Hope this helps a little...
 
Steve said:
Have a look at these brochures:

http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/M1_Modular_...er_Brochure.pdf
http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/M1_Family_Literature.pdf

They may help a bit. Just think of the M1 as a hub, the device that ties all the other components together. The M1 has an RS485 bus that various expanders and option ties into. Those components are listed in the brochures above.

Specifically, for lighting, you have a PIM (Powerline Interface Module) that plugs into the wall outlet on one end and a serial expander (via serial cable) on the other. The serial expander connects to the controller via the bus. So the M1 can send and receive signals over the powerline (x10, Insteon and UPB) to devices such as wall switches, appliance modules, etc. anywhere in the house. Zwave is wireless and is similar but has a dedicated interface box.

So the M1 'sees' all of these things connected to it and can control them via the rules which are programmed in the RP software that comes with the M1.

Hope this helps a little...
So basically, I really don't need to run wires for controlling the lighting since powerlines will be used as the physical transport. That's a pretty cool protocol, streams over powerlines. :)
 
Spanky said:
Keypads, input expanders, output expanders, or any device that will be on the M1 data bus run CAT5.

Touchscreens run 2 CAT5 to future proof.

18/2 wire to speakers minimum

22/2 wire to door/window contacts, 2 wire smoke detectors

22/4 wire to motion detectors, 4 wire smoke detectors


If in doubt, run CAT5.
when you said touchscreen, is this a substitute for the standard keypad?
 
WayneW said:
v1rtu0s1ty said:
Help me please. I really am new to HA. I drew a picture and let me know how bad the wire connectivity is. :D
This picture from Electron shows an Elk M1EZ8 with 3 serial modules (the back boxes)
http://www.mydotsoft.com/products/my.Galle...me/PA211541.JPG

This picture shows a plug-in UPB lighting interface
http://automatedoutlet.com/product.php?pro...&cat=145&page=1

Now just imagine that UPB module plugged in someplace below the first picture and one of the gray serial cables connecting them. Very Simple.
I'm assuming you meant black boxes. I was having a hardtime deciphering it until I saw the rs232 connector. :)

Please see the picture as how I understand your explanation. The UPB module connect to the serial module on the ELK via an rs232 cable.

Now, if that is the case, how would I be able to automate some lights in my bedrooms in the second floor say master bedroom using those modules? We also know that to turn on the lights in the bedroom, we use the traditional switch. Is there any device that needs to be installed too on the ON/OFF wall switch plate?

elk_and_upb.jpg
 
v1rtu0s1ty said:
Now, if that is the case, how would I be able to automate some lights in my bedrooms in the second floor say master bedroom using those modules? We also know that to turn on the lights in the bedroom, we use the traditional switch. Is there any device that needs to be installed too on the ON/OFF wall switch plate?
You'll want to replace the wall switch with a automation style switch (X10, Insteon, UPB, Z-Wave) to match the protocol you are using to control with from the elk. Then you can control the light locally at the switch and also have it controlled by the elk.

The hardest part is finding wall switches that best match your houses decor and gets approval from WAF. If you have/need the old style toggle switches, you are limited to X10 or Insteon.

The Pod
 
The Pod said:
v1rtu0s1ty said:
Now, if that is the case, how would I be able to automate some lights in my bedrooms in the second floor say master bedroom using those modules? We also know that to turn on the lights in the bedroom, we use the traditional switch. Is there any device that needs to be installed too on the ON/OFF wall switch plate?
You'll want to replace the wall switch with a automation style switch (X10, Insteon, UPB, Z-Wave) to match the protocol you are using to control with from the elk. Then you can control the light locally at the switch and also have it controlled by the elk.

The hardest part is finding wall switches that best match your houses decor and gets approval from WAF. If you have/need the old style toggle switches, you are limited to X10 or Insteon.

The Pod
BADABING! I understand really now. Yep, I will have to show my wife all the style of switches. Can you guys send me links to brands that uses powerline technology?

Thanks The Pod! :)
 
First yo want to decide what protocol you want to go with. You do not want to choose a protocol on how a switch looks.
 
toymaster458 said:
First yo want to decide what protocol you want to go with. You do not want to choose a protocol on how a switch looks.
That's you talking, not the WAF factor. I'd agree that you don't want to make your total decision on switch looks, but I'd look more at what the protocol has to offer in the way of devices/modules, also preformance are relialiablity, then get WAF approval for visual items.

Insteon, X10 and UPB are powerline devices. (I'd not recommend X10, just my .02 cents).
Z-Wave is RF style.

Take a look at either SmartHome.com or AutomatedOutlet.com for available device types and styles.

The Pod
 
toymaster458 said:
First yo want to decide what protocol you want to go with. You do not want to choose a protocol on how a switch looks.
It looks like that UPB is the most reliable route right now. What is their website though? I want to look at their products. Good thing is that, there is no wiring needed if I will be using the powerline.
 
v1rtu0s1ty said:
Good thing is that, there is no wiring needed if I will be using the powerline.
Keep in mind that most HA wall switches do require a neutral wire. And unless you have a neutral wire already running to the wall switch box, you will have to run one, or use options that are 2 wire (don't require a neutral wire).

The Pod
 
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