Control garage door opener with Elk M1 with a "Smart Control Panel"

[sbwright]

I have the exact opener and ran a 6 conductor to the control panel and soldered to the tact switches. Using 3 Elk relays I now have total control of the opener, the light and the lock. It hasn't failed me since.

I thought about the flash to pass system but decided that If I want better security I can remove the standard opener from any vehicles or have the ELk lock the opener.

Sorry...I know you didn't want to run a wire but you are limited to only a few options.

gatchel,

Any chance you have and could share the details of the connections to the tact switches made within the control panel

 

[gatchel]

I just used a multi meter to determine what pins create a dead short when the tact switch is pressed. If I can remember I'll take a pic of the connections this week.

 

[gatchel]

I posted a pic here:

http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/21371-garage-opener-wired-liftmaster-2-strand-relay-hookup/page__fromsearch__1

 

[sbwright]

I posted a pic here:

http://cocoontech.co...__fromsearch__1

Thanks for the reply and as always a pic is worth 1000 words.

 

[Big517]

My smart panel has an occupancy sensor on it also that triggers the lights on the gdo (New chamberlain whisper drive with OnQ). Does anyone know how to turn this into a zone on the Elk?

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

My smart panel has an occupancy sensor on it also that triggers the lights on the gdo (New chamberlain whisper drive with OnQ). Does anyone know how to turn this into a zone on the Elk?

Many ways to do this.  Look at the How to monitor an appliance status light in the how to section.  You would also split out the light receptacle and have one trigger a relay (whose contacts would go back to the zone).

 

[gatchel]

A zone for security purposes? If so I would spend the money on a real motion detector...
 
For occupancy reasons, you will probably have to use the light as the signal as mentioned above.

 

[stewbuntu]

One other thing you may run into (at least I did with a fairly new Chamberlain opener) is with the remotes. I have three buttons on mine, with two being used. However, no matter how I rigged this thing up wiring wires up in parallel to each button, I could never get BOTH openers to work at the same time. As soon as I desoldered one set of wires, the other button's wires would work great (just touching them together). I tried every configuration known to man before finally admitting defeat and using two remotes instead of one - one for each door. Sure this cost me another relay on my Elk-RB board, but at least I have my sanity. So, instead of buying one extra remote, you might want to pick up a second

That is unless one of the many bright sparks on here can explain what my issue was and make me feel stupid!

 
So I was able to short across the pins a couple different ways to trip the door. I'm going with the remote so that I don't have wires that the wife will not like hanging around near the wall switch and due to wiring preference.  What ones should I connet out of the 4 pins. Which are better? Looks like top left is positive and other 3 are negative. are the 3 negatives just backup pins?

 

[stewbuntu]

link to pic http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/stewfish1818/media/20131018_032913_zps8868896c.jpg.html]

 

[stewbuntu]

ARG you can't edit your posts?
 
Here is the correct limk  to the pic: http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff483/stewfish1818/20131018_032913_zps8868896c.jpg
 
THANKS

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Which ever two (combination) you touch to activate the garage door would work.  Also, take a look at the battery, you may also want to consider placing this in your wiring closet if you have the range, and using a DC source in lieu of the battery.
 
I did this for my remote as shown here. 
 
If it's not 12 volt, you can always use a regulator, but would have to rig one up on a breadboard.
 
This isn't to important though as the battery should last a pretty long time.