Controllable outlet for Malibu lights?

[JimS]

I have a couple ML300 transformers for low voltage exterior lights. One photocell went out. The mechanical clock stopped turning on the other. Thinking this might be a good time to automate.

Trouble is they plug into a GFCI outdoor outlet and I would like to keep the other outlight for leaf blower, etc. I could cover the GFCI aspect by putting an outlet upstream that is GFCI. And I could put a UPB split outlet in. The outlet is decora style.

What are some other options? I suppose I could try to fit a UPB or even a DIY circuit where the timeclock is...

 

[tmbrown97]

I suppose there are a couple options... One is to get the GFCI upstream as you suggested. I have one direct outdoor circuit where I wanted a UPB outlet - I just converted the breaker to a GFCI and then dropped a UPB outlet in.

Keep in mind though - UPB outlets are generally only 12A - my other exterior outlets are rated for 20A. Be mindful of what you plug into it.

If you can separate things out to where your lights get a different outlet that might help - or otherwise separate it. It could be as simple as a plug-in relay module (did that at my last house) and plug the transformers into that. That'll also get you higher amperage ratings.

 

[JimS]

I have found plug in relay modules:

http://www.zwaveproducts.com/Zwave-Lighting/Zwave-Plugin-Modules/HomeSettings-HA04-Z-Wave-Outdoor-Plugin-Module.html
http://www.amazon.com/Smarthome-2456S3E-ApplianceLinc-INSTEON-Outdoor/dp/B003IHTZEE

It would last a lot longer if I could keep things inside out of the weather but that may not be practical.

For one I could convert the whole outlet as there is another outlet close by. For the other one it would be nice to keep the other outlet for other uses and adding another will be difficult.

Then there is the question of what system to use. I have a few X10 things but want to use something better. I just threw UPB out as a possibility and know there are others. Just don't have any experience with any of the newer ones.

Also have a 115VAC outdoor light I want to automate but the feed for it goes through the attic - it will be easy to add something there.

 

[tmbrown97]

I had an area at my last house where I needed to use a UPB module, but it was directly in the path of a lot of rainfall - so I just made a custom enclosure to hold a relay module and have the wires exit the bottom. The power went to the outlet next to it with a good in-use cover to keep water out.

They are not spec'd for outdoor use, but this topic recently came up (as it has over the years) and people generally haven't had any problems, even with their modules buried under snow.

As for which technology to go for, that's another discussion. Check out Z-Wave, Insteon, and UPB. They're all three similar enough yet quite different.

• UPB is kinda like X10 in that it uses powerline, but it's much more powerful and actually works. It's nice because you can buy two devices and put them on opposite sides of the house and they'll likely work.
• Z-Wave is the fastest growing right now, with compatibility with locks, thermostats, outlets, etc - and it's more accessible and in turn a little cheaper. It's a radio based device that creates a mesh network. With that one, you never have to worry about phase problems, but you do have to ensure you have enough devices to create the mesh and keep things talking from end to end in your home. There seem to be some complexities in creating that mesh and keeping everything talking as it should but all in all it seems pretty good.
• Insteon is a smarthome.com product, so that's the only place to really get it (single manufacturer). It's a combination of radio and powerline. The powerline is closer to X10 than the more robust UPB but because most devices are dual band (radio and powerline) the devices will repeat for one another. This in theory helps both phase issues and distance issues between devices; if you're having a problem communicating with something, one well-placed dual-band device might fix your issue. You can start out small with no big controller expense, but if you grow your insteon build much, it's considered to be pretty much required to buy an ISY-99 which is fairly expensive.

These are very short descriptions... people are welcome to correct/argue any of them - and I encourage you to do your own research; these are just some things to start off thinking about.

 

[pete_c]

I still utilize the older Black and Decker X10 outdoor style modules for my Christmas lighting. I did try the Z-Wave outdoor modules for the Christmas lighting about 3 years ago. It worked just fine; it was a bit time consuming to configure though for use for temporary use.

I do have one on the deck in an outdoor rated switch box automated switch and its been outside now for about 5 years working fine.

I did recently upgrade the same said outdoor automated switch to UPB.

If you have conduit running to your outdoor boxes you could add more electrical cabling and interior switches for automation. In my old house I installed second floor second roof level outdoor outlets just for Christmas lighting. I put in some extra conduit and just installed an interior automated switches (1980's).

The attached picture shows my newer LED LV lighting set up using a UPB switch. Its completed today with a housing for the DIN DC transformers. The footprint is about 1/10 or less of the old configuration. I shifted to this from 4 commercial toroidal multicircuit 1000 Watt LV transformers using separate X10 appliance modules.

Next LED LV endeavor is to migrate this whole setup to a couple of solar panels charging 12VDC batteries and figuring out how to automate this LV switching endeavor.

 

[kurtmccaslin]

Here are some photos of how I automated my low voltage lights. Dont look at the cobwebs, this box is over 10 years old.

The first photo with the box closed.
The second shows the box with a plug-in UPB switch. I have programmed my UPB timer to turn on/off based on sunrise/sunset tables.
Third, shows the box as originally installed. This is a FX brand lighting transformer. It has a stainless steel case and is built tough!

This setup has been working flawlessly for over 10 years. 2 years ago, I replaced all my low voltage lights with LED bulbs. I was getting less than a year from the incandecent bulbs. The LED's reduce energy consumption and last forever.

[sharedmedia=gallery:images:504]
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:503]
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:502]

 

[pete_c]

rockinarmadillo, those are similiar to what I was using.

They are very well constructed and built to last forever. That said though I had 4 1000 watt transformers and they would dim the lights in the house when being turned on. I did install two of these at my sisters house for use with her incandescent outdoor low voltage lighting two years ago.

I had one automation switch per toroidal transformer.

I did the switching over to LED lighting a zone at a time and used AC/DC LED non polarity LED lamps. I had subdivided the LV lighting into numerous zones and used the multivoltage taps for the longer than 100 foot runs of 12-14 guage outdoor cabling.

Once completed I removed the larger 1000 watt transformers and went to just the little DC transformers using less space and less power and combined all of the powerline switching from the four switches to the one UPB switch.

The endeavor a few years back started with the very bright and hard white LED lighting to the now easily available warm white LED lighting. You can't can't hardly tell the difference these days from the older incandescent lighting.

 

[johnboy70_99]

I was able to fit a UPB Appliance module inside the transformer box where the timer usually goes. Has worked great so far for 2 years.

 

[ano]

I got an outdoor box and installed a 15A relay switch (HAI) and an outlet. plugged the outdoor lights into it and plugged the box into a regular outdoor outlet. Its worked great for a few years except for the time when some rats started eating the cord and i had to replace it. I guess rats are known to like rubber.