Convert Old Security To Elk M1 Gold

[Ed Nelson]

My money says Vista20p, A Vista 10 usually doesn't have a #8 and never has #18-20. The 15p has a #8 and supports 2 wire smokes between #8 & #9 but also does not have a #18-20. It appears this one has a #18-20.

I also find it somewhat strange how it's been wired aside from the previsouly mentioned EOL at the control they also were not trimmed back very well. But what I find the most strange is the zones wired in parallel, zones 3 or 4 (#12,13,14) and zones 7 or 8 (#18,19,20) all use 2k ohm when using zone doubling you should use 3k ohm for the first zone and 6.2k for the second.


Does it work properly?


Do you have to open all of the windows in a room to trip it or just a single window?

Hi CollinR. "Does it work.." I have no idea. This is a new home. The contacts/motion/smoke and controller were all wired, but it does not appear they have been powered up. My plan was to wait until these guys finished the verification and then transition everything over to ELK. This way, I'd at least know I have a solid starting point.

- Ed

 

[Ed Nelson]

Maybe I missed the point of the OP. Are you trying to determine the layout of
the wires from the specific sensors to the panel?

Assuming the existing panel is operational, can't you just violate various windows/doors
to determine which wires go to which zones? I don't have experience with too many
systems, but I figure all of them have a way of indicating the zone # that is violated
whenever an attempt to arm is performed.

gk

Yeppers, that was my question, but I was also courius about the resistors on the contact wires and wondered if I needed to pull these over as well. If I read Spanky correct, the answer is no.

 

[Ed Nelson]

Think I am gonna wait till the installer runs the verification test and ask him what's up and what is connected to what. This should take care of part of my question. The other part (regarding transfering the existing end point resistors to the ELK appears to be answered. Specifically, I do not need to bring the resistors over. Just terminate the bare ends and configure properties of end device on ELK.

- Ed

 

[AnotherOne]

Having moved panels a year ago, make sure you label where every wire was on your old panel and take some good clear digital photos, it makes it really easy to do the move. And with the fact that the terminal blocks come off the elk, you can remove each wire from your old panel and wire it into the elk terminal blocks without having to remove anything from the panel. I found it easier to write on my ELK terminal blocks the information like zone #, neg, vaux, etc so I didn't have to look at the diagram all the time. And as everyone says, loose the resistors (except from the fire zones) as you go along.