Door Contacts

[ph0n33z]

Alright guys,

The time has come to start installing the security contacts for the new house. I have chosen to go with the GRI super mini surface mount contacts for all of the windows.

However, I need some input on contacts for the doors. I have 3 different needs for contacts on my exterior doors.

1) The wire is run to the top frame of the door
2) The wire is run to the non-hinge side of the door
3) The wire is run to the hinge side of the door

The reason for the different locations was either due to framing limitations, plumbing boundaries, or some other "blockage".

So what do you guys think would be the best solution for each of those areas? The choices seem to be:

Plunger Type
Roller Ball Type
Surface Mount
Recessed Mount

I would prefer to use the GRI contacts, but if you have found something that works better, let me know!

Thankyou!

 

[HoustonFirefox]

I have had really good results with the magentic type "tube" switches. You simply drill a hole up through the door frame and a matching hole in the door. Install the magnet in the door and the switch in the frame (with a dab of caulk to seal it if you want), paint over it and you'll never know it is there. In addition they are very inexpensive and have a very long life.

My .02 cents.

 

[ph0n33z]

Which brand have you used Houston?

 

[alarmguy]

O.K.

Have just finished a house with 4 Overhead, 11 Man Doors with 42 Windows. All with GRI N20RS-T (except the Overhead doors) we use alot of this style and also 20RS-T and are very happy with them. Sharp Bit, 3/8" hole and a clean install. On the man doors for top and non-hinge side they are great. Be carefull on the hinge side as we have found the magnet sometimes powerfull enough to hold the circuit with the door open!! So then we use the DSO1T 3/4" Dome Plunger. For Overhead doors we like the Ademco 958 as the bracket is adjustable and it will fit most all of the doors we come in contact with.

Hope this helps, I think is was about my 8 cents worth

 

[HoustonFirefox]

ph0n33z,

I'm using the GE Interlogix 1075-N switches from AutomatedOutlet.com

They are dirt-cheap, very dependable and (importantly) very easy to install. They have a 1/2" gap distance before triggering and fit in a 3/8" hole.

I never want to re-visit the switches so I soldered the EOL resistor in-line with the leads coming off the switches and put heat-shrink tubing on them so they should never corrode, etc.

Good luck with your install!

 

[rfdesq]

I like Sentrol 1055W switches. 1/4" extra wide gap. I attach EOL resistors with ELK B connectors. I've used 1000's of gel fill "Beans" and never had a failure.

 

[ph0n33z]

O.K.

Have just finished a house with 4 Overhead, 11 Man Doors with 42 Windows. All with GRI N20RS-T (except the Overhead doors) we use alot of this style and also 20RS-T and are very happy with them. Sharp Bit, 3/8" hole and a clean install. On the man doors for top and non-hinge side they are great. Be carefull on the hinge side as we have found the magnet sometimes powerfull enough to hold the circuit with the door open!! So then we use the DSO1T 3/4" Dome Plunger. For Overhead doors we like the Ademco 958 as the bracket is adjustable and it will fit most all of the doors we come in contact with.

Hope this helps, I think is was about my 8 cents worth

Thanks for the information Alarmguy!

I was wondering what type of windows you installed the N20RS-T's on? Were they vinyl? If so, did they happen to be Milgard?

Right now, I have all of my window contact wires coming out in front of the windows for surface mount, so I will probably have to go with a surface mount on those.

However, for the doors I will be able to used the recessed type.

 

[alarmguy]

All the windows in the house are Anderson Double hung 400's Wood inside & Vinyl Outside. The small round magnets work very well and with the #4-1/4" screws you do not have to worry about drilling and hitting anything in the window