Door Strike Selection
- Thread starter beaumeri
- Start date
The unlatch is somewhat noisy in the sense that it has a motor in it instead of the usual "click" you will hear a motor noise like a servo motor on an RC car or helicopter. They usually fit in the standard cut out of your typical metal office door frame. They require constant power with a trigger wire if I remember correctly. so 3 or 4 conductors.
The 8300 is a similar type of strike but you just hear the strike click. The issue with the 8300 is that the deadlatch has to be aligned with the center groove in the "push in" part of the strike. If the deadlatch is high or low the door latch will grab and not open properly.
Remember, the above is with metal frames. Wood frames...it really depends on the installer. There are a lot of variables to consider when installing on a wood door.
I would probably choose the 8300 if it were me, as long as the door is installed properly...
The 8300 is a similar type of strike but you just hear the strike click. The issue with the 8300 is that the deadlatch has to be aligned with the center groove in the "push in" part of the strike. If the deadlatch is high or low the door latch will grab and not open properly.
Remember, the above is with metal frames. Wood frames...it really depends on the installer. There are a lot of variables to consider when installing on a wood door.
I would probably choose the 8300 if it were me, as long as the door is installed properly...
With wood framed doors you have to be concerned with the strength of the door frame and the alignment of the strike. Make sure to set the strike in far enough to only allow the latch to drop in to the strike pocket while holding the dead latch back so that it functions properly. Use a razor blade to outline the strike mounting tabs and chisel away only enough wood to have the strike flush with the frame. triple check your measurements and latch depth before making any cuts. Too much play in the door strike / latch contact area and the dead latch will drop in to the strike pocket making it useless. Too little play and you may have too much tension on the strike mechanical workings and you will have to end waiting for the click, then pushing the door before you pull it open. This would be my preferable "not perfect" scenario because you know it will work and it also keeps the door tight against the weather stripping, all things to consider.
Did you ever consider an electric Lever set? They don't have the strike adjustment issues, BUT you have to use a door cord or an electric power transfer hinge, AND you have to core drill the door to get the wire from the hinge to the lever set, which can also be tricky. They also are quiet, probably quieter than both strikes listed above. The door can also be returned to non electrified status with out major patching if any at all.
Did you ever consider an electric Lever set? They don't have the strike adjustment issues, BUT you have to use a door cord or an electric power transfer hinge, AND you have to core drill the door to get the wire from the hinge to the lever set, which can also be tricky. They also are quiet, probably quieter than both strikes listed above. The door can also be returned to non electrified status with out major patching if any at all.
michelkenny
Active Member
If your door has a load on it (weather stripping or misalignment), then the HES 7000 is one of your only options (aside from the Unlatch).
ddennerline
Active Member
How does the Securitron UnLatch lock work? The video located at http://www.securitron.com/en/site/securitron/Library/Product-Animations/Product-Animation-UNL-UnLatch-Strike/ is not very informative. From what I can gather, the device has a moveable strike bolt. When the UnLatch bolt engages, it pushes the spring loaded door latch bolt forward – eliminating the hooking space.
Are these locks installed with a dedicated power supply (and battery backup)? From what I read, the 12vdc, 4A, has some cost benefits as this voltage is same as Elk devices. Although, the 12vdc option seems to only allow for very short wire runs back to power supply. 24v seems like a better option, but the cost increases because power supply would then be dedicated to locks.
The channel between the one of my doors and its adjacent window is very small, and I doubt thick wires could be squirreled down the channel.
Lastly, can these locks work with 1” long deadbolts. Are “push-in” release type deadbolts sold? I tried to pushing in both a Medco and Kwikset deadbolt, and they would not budge.
Is using this type of automated lock for perimeter doors with ½” latch bolt common?
My biggest complaint with Kwikset smart locks is the product engages one lock (deadbolt). All of my doors have both a dead-bolt and regular lock. Normally both are locked. A solution that elegantly manages both locks would be ideal.
Are these locks installed with a dedicated power supply (and battery backup)? From what I read, the 12vdc, 4A, has some cost benefits as this voltage is same as Elk devices. Although, the 12vdc option seems to only allow for very short wire runs back to power supply. 24v seems like a better option, but the cost increases because power supply would then be dedicated to locks.
The channel between the one of my doors and its adjacent window is very small, and I doubt thick wires could be squirreled down the channel.
Lastly, can these locks work with 1” long deadbolts. Are “push-in” release type deadbolts sold? I tried to pushing in both a Medco and Kwikset deadbolt, and they would not budge.
Is using this type of automated lock for perimeter doors with ½” latch bolt common?
My biggest complaint with Kwikset smart locks is the product engages one lock (deadbolt). All of my doors have both a dead-bolt and regular lock. Normally both are locked. A solution that elegantly manages both locks would be ideal.
The best description and way to see it work without having one is that video. I can't really explain how it works, besides it "does". One moves the deadlatch, the other moves the bolt.
18 AWG is usually fine for the majority of strike installs for 12V. Securitron recommends larger because of the inrush current and voltage drop for the motor, also trying to make sure there's enough amperage to maintain the torque, like a VonDuprin strike.
In the case of the Unlatch, you'll only need 3 conductors, and if space is tight, you could run individual conductors rather than a single jacketed cable.
They will not work with a deadbolt because there's nothing to push back or a deadlatch. Only way you'd be able to work with a deadbolt would be to use a strike that has a cutout for the bolt throw.
Also, don't forget, you can find an appropriately sized wall wart and use that to power the strikes and not use a supply at all, assuming you're going fail secure. Worst case scenario, you'd need to use keys for a power outage.
18 AWG is usually fine for the majority of strike installs for 12V. Securitron recommends larger because of the inrush current and voltage drop for the motor, also trying to make sure there's enough amperage to maintain the torque, like a VonDuprin strike.
In the case of the Unlatch, you'll only need 3 conductors, and if space is tight, you could run individual conductors rather than a single jacketed cable.
They will not work with a deadbolt because there's nothing to push back or a deadlatch. Only way you'd be able to work with a deadbolt would be to use a strike that has a cutout for the bolt throw.
Also, don't forget, you can find an appropriately sized wall wart and use that to power the strikes and not use a supply at all, assuming you're going fail secure. Worst case scenario, you'd need to use keys for a power outage.
The unlatch has two "pieces" in it's moving parts. When the door is closed one piece is aligned with the actual latch portion and the other piece is aligned with the dead latch. In the locked mode the latch piece is in a position away from the door and the dead latch piece is close to the door to hold the dead latch in making the door pick proof. When you activate the unlatch the dead latch piece moves away from the door allowing the dead latch to come out. The unlatch then pushes the latch and the dead latch together, toward the door, allowing them to slide across the front of the unlatch which allows the door to open.