Electric door strike and latch security

[michelkenny]

I'm strongly considering adding an electric door strike to the door leading to my attached garage, controlled with a prox card reader. My door currently has a deadbolt and a handle with no lock. I already know that I need to replace the handle with something that locks. I'm looking at a storeroom configuration, where the outside is always locked (unlocked with a key) and the inside always opens freely.

I've been wondering though, by removing the use of the deadbolt, doesn't that make the door easier to compromise by using things like credit cards, coat hangers, etc. that are meant to slip in and manually push the latch back into the door allowing it to open?

I understand that some latches have a 2nd smaller latch, called a dead latch, that when depressed will prevent the main latch from being manually pushed in. In this case, I would have to align the electric door strike perfectly in order to ensure that the dead latch is depressed when the door is closed. By reading some threads here on CT, I see that some electric door strike owners might not be using this dead latch. What are your thoughts on this? Is anyone worried about lessening the security of the door by removing the use of a deadbolt?

 

[Del91574]

A strike installed where the bolt is "passed through" the frame is subject to compromise, however the more secure installs will have a shield that covers the strike location to make this more difficult.

Also, with most access control systems, you use a DPS/contact or even two so the system knows if the door is open or closed (forced/prop) with the second, if used, for an alarm point. Some only use a single contact which is shunted on an access event. Most access systems have the contacts "armed" if you will, constantly and only shunted by an access event. Whatever is done, the primary "loops" that some strikes offer for bolt position and REX should really not be used for an accurate picture of what is going on at the lock/strike.

The wisest way to go IMHO on a residential application where cutting for a bolt to pass would be to use something like a Securitron Unlatch or an electrified handleset.

You didn't mention your particular controller, be it a standalone or integrated into a security system.

 

[michelkenny]

A strike installed where the bolt is "passed through" the frame is subject to compromise, however the more secure installs will have a shield that covers the strike location to make this more difficult.

Also, with most access control systems, you use a DPS/contact or even two so the system knows if the door is open or closed (forced/prop) with the second, if used, for an alarm point. Some only use a single contact which is shunted on an access event. Most access systems have the contacts "armed" if you will, constantly and only shunted by an access event. Whatever is done, the primary "loops" that some strikes offer for bolt position and REX should really not be used for an accurate picture of what is going on at the lock/strike.

The wisest way to go IMHO on a residential application where cutting for a bolt to pass would be to use something like a Securitron Unlatch or an electrified handleset.

You didn't mention your particular controller, be it a standalone or integrated into a security system.

This will be controlled by an Elk M1. Of course I have a door contact that will detect the door opening right away, as well as a motion in the entrance which will trip the alarm too, so I guess it's not a big deal. If they want in, they will find a way regardless. It was more so a thought that popped into my mind which I was curious about (the door latch).

Our other front door to the outside has glass panes, which someone would just have to break and access the deadbolt, so I guess it is not that secure either.

 

[Del91574]

I'd install the Securitron Unlatch and then appropriate physical hardware. The Unlatch takes care of the deadlatch issue.

Depending on where the Weigand is going back to would determine if you can extend it or any other issues to contend with.

I've used M1's for residential and commercial apps. with strikes, readers, keypads and KAM's, so it depends on your particular situation.

The most elemental, like I have running at my house is the reader straight to a KP to spit the weigand data to the M1, then use a relay, either an output expander or you can tie an appropriate relay to the KP, personally I like to use the output on the KP to control LED color on the reader, holdover from my daily job, so I can see lock status, etc.

Then you can make rules as you see fit...unlock the door only, disarm only, or unlock then disarm...really whatever you want it to do. You could, if you really wanted to, use a pushbutton in the throw of the deadbolt to monitor it's status and do some really crazy things with that bolt status to disable the strike and remove the entry delay on that zone.

I've played with a motorized deadbolt and sensed the throw of the deadbolt and fired rules based of armed mode, but it starts becoming a little crazy at that point.