Cylindrical Lock Electric Strike

[auzzzie]

Gents,
 
I'm attempting to put an electric door strike/keypad setup on my garage. Currently it has a standard cylindrical lock (no key) and a deadbolt above it. 
 
I'm not much of a locksmith but if I put an electric strike on the deadbolt that's not going to work as the deadbolt wouldn't retract. 
If I put one on the cylindrical lock, couldn't you just turn the handle to bypass it? 
 
Do I need to change out my lock hardware for an electric strike to work? 
 
Appreciate any input. 

 

[42etus]

You are correct. It won't work on the deadbolt. You will need to install a appropriate lockset (keyed) to make use of the door strike.

 

[mikefamig]

This looks like a nice small strike. It was recommended to me by Delinstallations for my garage walk-in door but I haven't installed one yet.
 
http://www.trineonline.com/3000_series.php
 
Mike.

 

[facesnorth]

I'm interested in this topic as well.  I actually recently bought the Trine as it looked like a good option and I wanted to have it on hand to see what I'd need to do to make it work with my doors.  However, I haven't decided what kind of "handle" or knob to use yet.  As this is my front door, I still want it to look fairly nice.  I guess it's irrelevant whether it is keyed or not.
 
However, like others have observed, I would not be able to use a deadbolt, or else the strike wouldn't work anyway.  Unless it was only used when we are home (and don't want anyone to come in via the strike).

 

[mikefamig]

The door strike is convenient but the trade off is a less secure door. You also need to consider fire safety and whether to use a "fail safe" or a "fail secure" strike. I did some reading on the topic a while back but forget what conclusions I came to. Maybe others here can help.
 
Mike.

 

[mikefamig]

Here is a link to a discussion on door strikes that might help.
 
http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/28568-choosing-door-strikes/page-3?hl=%20door%20%20strike%20%20fire

 

[lanbrown]

The door strike is convenient but the trade off is a less secure door. You also need to consider fire safety and whether to use a "fail safe" or a "fail secure" strike. I did some reading on the topic a while back but forget what conclusions I came to. Maybe others here can help.
 
Mike.

 
It would be a fail secure strike used here as long as the lock itself could be opened on the inside; how your typical house locks works these days.  The electric striker plate is only used when you're outside and you enter a valid access code.  When you're inside, you can just turn the knob and out you go.  So fail secure would make more sense.  If there was a fire, the lock setup works like a traditional lock setup.

 

[mikefamig]

It would be a fail secure strike used here as long as the lock itself could be opened on the inside; how your typical house locks works these days.  The electric striker plate is only used when you're outside and you enter a valid access code.  When you're inside, you can just turn the knob and out you go.  So fail secure would make more sense.  If there was a fire, the lock setup works like a traditional lock setup.

 
Yeah that is how i understand it but I'm a self taught installer and don't advise on  code or safety stuff.
 
Mike

 

[ano]

When I did all the locks in my past house, I used deadbolts, not door strikes. The door strikes just aren't all that secure, the deadbolts are.  But since they were deadbolts, they had to be "fail safe" as I had an "exit" button inside that had to be pushed to exit.  I also had battery backup for about 8 hours, and a way to disconnect it from outside, should I need to.  I don't remember the circumstances now, but one day I did get locked out.  So I had to go up to the attic and remove the battery, then remove power to the house to get it.  For me, having the deadbolt security with a backup to get in, was better than having the insecure door strikes that are "fail secure."