Elk doorbell detector troubleshooting

[JST829]

I'm having a hard time figuring out what is going wrong with my Elk doorbell detector.  It doesn't seem to be working at all.
 
I have it wired up according to the diagram in the installation instructions:
 

 
These are the settings for the zone I have it connected to:
 

 
I have also set the fast loop response time to 40ms:
 

 
Does anyone notice anything that I might have incorrect?  With the settings I have, I should at least be hearing a chime from the keypads, right?  Every other zone I have the chime enabled on works fine.  I've even gone so far as order a new detector to make sure there wasn't something wrong with the first one... same results.

 

[jpmargis]

Does the doorbell work?  If you short across OUT and NEG, do you get a chime?  If yes, then you may not be meeting the 900 mA requirement for the ELK-930 to trigger.  Try increasing the doorbell load with a suitable resistor in parallel.

 

[BLH]

Out and Neg are polarity sensitive.
If the voltage is reversed on the terminals. It will not work.
I found that out on an X10 Powerflash. It had the - sensing voltage on the + terminal when in the dry contact mode.

 

[JST829]

Does the doorbell work?  If you short across OUT and NEG, do you get a chime?  If yes, then you may not be meeting the 900 mA requirement for the ELK-930 to trigger.  Try increasing the doorbell load with a suitable resistor in parallel.

 
The doorbell works.  Pardon my ignorance, but how do I short across OUT and NEG?  If I do that and I get a chime, where do I wire the resistor in?  Thanks for the reply!
 

Out and Neg are polarity sensitive.
If the voltage is reversed on the terminals. It will not work.
I found that out on an X10 Powerflash. It had the - sensing voltage on the + terminal when in the dry contact mode.

 
I can try switching them, but I have negative connected to negative and OUT connected to Zone 13 Input on the Elk.

 

[jpmargis]

Short = connect OUT to NEG.
 
The resistor would connect from FRONT DOOR INPUT to TRANSFORMER.  Fry's or Radio Shack should have something around 15-25 ohms at 10 watts.  For test purposes, a 12 volt lamp from your car's brake lights (not LED) or similar would work.

 

[JST829]

Short = connect OUT to NEG.
 
The resistor would connect from FRONT DOOR INPUT to TRANSFORMER.  Fry's or Radio Shack should have something around 15-25 ohms at 10 watts.  For test purposes, a 12 volt lamp from your car's brake lights (not LED) or similar would work.

 
Ok, so to 'short', I take the two wires connecting the M1G and doorbell detector, disconnect them from the detector, and touch them together to see if I get a chime?
 
When it comes to wiring in the resistor, does it matter if I put it before or after the push button?

 

[jpmargis]

I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt that you are not just messing with me. :huh: To short, you connect OUT to NEG.  Use a piece of wire or a screwdriver.  Don't disconnect anything.  The resistor/lamp goes exactly where I indicated using the doorbell terminal names from your schematic.

 

[JST829]

I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt that you are not just messing with me. :huh: To short, you connect OUT to NEG.  Use a piece of wire or a screwdriver.  Don't disconnect anything.  The resistor/lamp goes exactly where I indicated using the doorbell terminal names from your schematic.

 
No, I'm not messing with you.  Sorry I didn't know what you were saying.