Elk Installation Steps

S

Smcross03

Member
Hello All,
Does anyone have a suggestion or opinion for the best approach for installing an Elk M1 system? For example, should I install and wire every component before powering up or is it best to install some key components, i.e. the Elk and a keypad first?  Any guidance on this would be greatly appreciated.  I've provided a list of components I will be installing for reference.
 
Thank you,
 
Elk M1
Ethernet Module, M1XEP (1)
Aux Power supply (1)
Honeywell Wireless, M1XRF2H (1) and sensors
Output Expander, M1XOVR (1)
Relay Board, M1RB (1)
Keypads, M1KPB (2), M1KPAS (1)
Data Bus Hubs, M1DBH (2)
Speakers, SP12F (4)
Zwave, M1XSLZW w/ VRC0P+3 (1)
UPB Interface, M1PCSPIM (1)
Serial Port Expander, M1XSP (1)
Uplink 4500ez (1)
Door Bell Detector Elk-9301
 
I would take it one step at a time.  If you hook everything up first and then power it on and find that it doesn't work, then you won't know where to look for the problem(s).   If you connect one thing at a time and do a test, then when you reach a point where things don't work, you'll know it probably has to do with the last changes you made.
 
Consider doing a bench test to start with on your workbench or even the kitchen table.  Wire up the M1, power transformer and a keypad and get that working.  Should be simple.  Connect a PC to the serial port and run RP2 and see how that works.  When you're comfortable, connect the M1XEP and get that working.
 
You can take the bench test further and connect up other components, like the expansion boards, wireless receiver, speakers and some contacts or other sensors and play around with them to gain some experience in configuring things.
 
At that point, I'd say you're ready to begin the real installation.  But even then, take it one step at a time and change the configuration bit by bit and run a test each step of the way.
 
Thank you RAL, I figured that might be the best approach! I wanted to make sure there wasn't some reason certain things needed to be completed at the same time.
 
By the way, are you the only one that responds to posts? LOL
 
Nope. I agree with RAL. Good luck! I did my own here first time with help from this forum and learned a lot. Be handy with your multimeter!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thank you TrojanHorse! I pulled out my multimeter the other day just to find out the batteries were dead. I will definitely be replacing them before I start.
 
Definitely go step by step, component by component and test. Read and re-read the instructions. There are some gotchas there such as bus termination seems to get a lot of people, also addresses set by switches, etc. I had to buy a USB to serial converter before I had the XEP set up. That helped me get ElkRP running before dealing with the XEP. Maybe not necessary but that’s what I did. I’m sure there’s a video or two out there for setup. Elk posted some previously.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
TrojanHorse said:
Definitely go step by step, component by component and test. Read and re-read the instructions. There are some gotchas there such as bus termination seems to get a lot of people, also addresses set by switches, etc. I had to buy a USB to serial converter before I had the XEP set up. That helped me get ElkRP running before dealing with the XEP. Maybe not necessary but that’s what I did. I’m sure there’s a video or two out there for setup. Elk posted some previously. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
Getting the XEP set up properly can be an exercise in frustration.  I found it helpful to get my PC and RP working through the serial port first and then moving on to getting the XEP working.  At least that way, I knew the M1 and RP oftware were working properly and any troubles I had with the XEP were with the XEP configuration or my network setup.  Today, with the changes made in Win10 regarding SSL/TLS and the corresponding changes required to the XEP firmware levels, there are additional stumbling blocks.
 
Another "gotcha" that got me was using crimp type wire splices without first stripping the wire leads. Bean type and some other connectors say that you don't need to strip wires but I recommend that all splices are stripped and twisted together before adding the crimp connector.
 
I've attached a text document explaining how the Elk rules work that may help you when you get to adding some automation rules to the system.
 
Mike.
 
Can you elaborate on what changes to the firmware need to be made? Is it a firmware upgrade or something more in depth?
 
Smcross03 said:
Can you elaborate on what changes to the firmware need to be made? Is it a firmware upgrade or something more in depth?
Click to expand...
 
The original XEP firmware supported SSL encryption for network connections.   Over the years, security flaws have been found with SSL, and browsers and operating systems have pretty much stopped using it in favor of TLS.  With Windows 10, you must use TLS.  Unfortunately, the XEP didn't support TLS in the older firmware levels.   It took Elk a few iterations, but they finally came out with new XEP firmware that will work with TLS. 
 
Depending on the age of your XEP, it may or may not have a relatively recent firmware level on it.  You can use the M1XEP Diagnostics or the RP2 program from the Elk web site to view the XEP firmware and bootware levels.

The latest level of the XEP firmware is 2.0.42 and the bootware version is 2.0.4.  Depending on what level your XEP is currently running, updating it might be a simple process, or, if it is very back level, it will require multiple update steps.
 
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