Elk M1

bwzimmerman

New Member
Ok, I am currently working on rewiring my house and sealing up gaps in the walls of my townhouse.. literally as we speak. I got the idea to rewire my old Brinks systems and then decided that I didnt want a main stream $40/ month security system. So I remembered the Elk M1 system, as I was dreaming of a whole house automation system but didnt want to re-run wiring. So, now I am at that point andI have a few questions and dont want to waste anymore time looking for the answers. (Trust me I have google'd and search this forum, so I dont know if the answer is both or I am asking the questions wrong)

1) Does the Elk system use open or closed loop door/window sensors?

2) I found a dead link that was for recessed door/ window sensors that were pre-wired with EOL resistors for the Elk M1 system.. do they still exist?

3) I have a bay window with three windows. Can I wire those windows to the same source wire so if one is opened they trigger the alarm zone for that window? (ill try to draw what i am saying)

ZONE x

[ ELK M1 System ] -------------|--------------|--------------|
( sen 1) (sen 2) (sen 3)
window window window

4) Recessed 3/8 sensors will work fine on a front door and two rear sliding glass doors, correct?



Sorry I am new to all this, and normally I would research all my options but this is a last minute idea.. and I have my wall open and the painter due to be here by the end of next week.
 
1. You can configure it for either (per zone) but a Normally Closed contact is typically used for security contacts.

2. GRI (George Risk, Inc.) makes them. Automated Outlet used to sell them with the proper resistor, check with them.

3. Sure, and that's the best way to handle a window like that. You would 'daisy chain' the contacts/connect them in series and if any one of the contacts opened then it would trip that zone.

4. Well there is no generic answer for that as it will all depend on the exact door and the sensor desired. Typically the recessed contacts work great on things like entry doors where you can wire it from above or below (attic/basement). Sliding door you may be able to do the same way but you will have to use a special thin magnet to affix to the door portion as you can't drill it and sink a longer magnet as in a typical recessed contact. You can also use surface mount mini contacts by GRI or the 'pill' type by Tane which are surface mount but very small.
 
Hey thanks for the info!

So would it make sense to put my basement door and window on the same zone? It would save on wire, connectors and make my install easier. They are about 3 feet from each other.
 
3) I have a bay window with three windows. Can I wire those windows to the same source wire so if one is opened they trigger the alarm zone for that window?

3. Sure, and that's the best way to handle a window like that. You would 'daisy chain' the contacts/connect them in series
and if any one of the contacts opened then it would trip that zone.


Only problem I see is if you use the sensors with the EOL resistors built in now you'd have 3 resistors on that one zone, which wont work.

Other then that you are right on the money

as for the basement window/Door is there a chance you'd want to bypass and eave the window open? then your door also wont be protected.
 
3) I have a bay window with three windows. Can I wire those windows to the same source wire so if one is opened they trigger the alarm zone for that window?

3. Sure, and that's the best way to handle a window like that. You would 'daisy chain' the contacts/connect them in series
and if any one of the contacts opened then it would trip that zone.


Only problem I see is if you use the sensors with the EOL resistors built in now you'd have 3 resistors on that one zone, which wont work.

Other then that you are right on the money

as for the basement window/Door is there a chance you'd want to bypass and eave the window open? then your door also wont be protected.

You just put the EOL at the end of the wire, not one at each sensor. The resistor is to validate continuity of the whole run.
 
Yes, you're both right but Todd brought that up because the OP mentioned the contacts with built in EOL so his assumption is all of those contact would have EOL. So to the OP - if you use multiple contact on one zone you need to get some contacts without the EOL built in and use them for all but the last contact when connecting multiple in series.

And I am a believer in doing all zones separate, especially doors and windows. The only time I usually like to do it is for things just like this bay window where it really doesn't matter which of the 3 is violated, its all really the same window. But I always keep windows and doors separate. What if you want to use the door contact to trigger some automation light a light, or anything like that.
 
Thanks again. I have taken the time to read some other things on here. I might not do the EOL resistor. I found a place local that sells the recessed sensors and I need to get the drywall back up before the painter is due to work.
 
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