Elk M1G Grounding

Photon

Active Member
Page eight, Para 1.3 "Mounting and Wiring Preparation" includes this: "Choose a location that allows easy wiring to an unswitched power outlet and to a grounding conductor for the control."

Is the M1G supposed to be grounded somewhere, or is this entry in the manual left over from when the ground terminal by the data bus connectors was still supposed to be used?

Should the 14" can the Elk is intended to live inside be grounded? I noticed a green screw packed with the hardware. I assume this is to only needed to connect the ground to the can if an outlet is mounted in the knockout at the bottom-right.

Regards. . . . .John
 
Page eight, Para 1.3 "Mounting and Wiring Preparation" includes this: "Choose a location that allows easy wiring to an unswitched power outlet and to a grounding conductor for the control."

Is the M1G supposed to be grounded somewhere, or is this entry in the manual left over from when the ground terminal by the data bus connectors was still supposed to be used?
I think this just wasn't removed from the manual. As I recall, the last word from Spanky was no grounding at all, not even to the former grounding terminal.
 
Grounding of the board itself is no longer reccomended based on extensive testing is they way I recollect Spanky putting it. The enclosure can always be grounded and in the case of mains voltages in the enclosure is then required to be grounded per the NEC.
 
I recall removing the earth ground is all Digger's recommendation. (Digger is X UL) ;)

We love UL!!
 
So there's a huge thunderstorm in Tallahassee and when the lightning strikes my apartment, my Elk M1 Gold will get fried up...

Not funny, but I've got to protect my investment...
 
So there's a huge thunderstorm in Tallahassee and when the lightning strikes my apartment, my Elk M1 Gold will get fried up...

Not funny, but I've got to protect my investment...

The lightning storms down south are very tough far any alarm system to handle. If I was living down there I would take extra precautions.

You might consider an ELK-950 (I think thats the model). Nothing is 100% bulletproof but the M1 is extremely rugged in my opinion. Trust me I beat it up pretty good and it held up just fine.
 
Here is my $.02 on lightning protection:

MOV lightning suppressors have a reaction time in about 5 nano seconds to start redirecting the transient to earth ground.
A good silicon based lightning suppressor has a reaction time in about 1 nano second.

The lightning transient will travel about 12 inches in a nano second. Therefore before the best lightning suppressor can kick in on a transient suppressor mounted on the control's PCB, the lighting may have already traveled across the board and done damage.

I suggest adding additional lightning protection outboard with 10 or more feet of cable between the lightning suppressor and the control board. This allows the transient to be redirected to earth ground rather than finding a path to earth ground through the control's PCB.

There are paths to earth ground in a control through the telephone line, AC transformer, and zone wiring close to earth grounded metal.

I have designed controls with and without earth ground on the control's PCB and can argue benefits and drawbacks of both methods.

If you are in a lightning prone area such as the US south, put outboard lightning protection on the telephone line and AC transformer lines at least.

Remember: If you take a direct strike into a house, all you can do is call the insurance company because no lightning suppressor is going to save your equipment. The lightning suppressors on a control and the add on lightning suppressors are to help eliminate transients generated some distance away.

Earth ground rods in sandy soil will glassify or build up a glass bead layer around the ground rod when lightning strikes. Every year you should drive the ground rod down an inch to help break up the glassification around the rod. When you have driven the rod into the ground, replace it with a new one. Make sure you only have one ground rod on your house. A unified ground rod prevents lightning from running up one ground rod into the house blowing things out then back out another ground rod.

A good, cheap lightning suppressor for zones is to drive nails into a stud and wrap the zone wire around the nail about 20 or more times, forming an inductor. This will slow down the transients greatly so that the lightning suppressors can do their job without being overwhelmed.
 
Here is my $.02 on lightning protection:
.....
There are paths to earth ground in a control through the telephone line, AC transformer, and zone wiring close to earth grounded metal.
.....
I have designed controls with and without earth ground on the control's PCB and can argue benefits and drawbacks of both methods.

What is the recommended way to integrate an external 12VDC power supply with the ELK M1G?

Assuming the M1G and the external power supply both operate from a 2-prong plug to 120VAC, and let's say it's a 5 amp external 12VDC power supply (w/ on-board current limit to 5A total max) what would you recommend?

Do you recommend a wire from the AUX- on the M1G to the - on the 12VDC power supply, and is there a preferred point to connect to this on the M1G?

Do you recommend connecting the M1G can (or maybe a point on the M1G board?) to the external power supply can, or just leave both cans floating?
 
"Do you recommend a wire from the AUX- on the M1G to the - on the 12VDC power supply, and is there a preferred point to connect to this on the M1G?"

And what size should this wire be? Is it carrying a bunch of current, so that if the two power supplies are separated by 100 feet it should be fairly heavy gauge, or does it just serve as a reference voltage level requiring just 22 gauge?
 
"Do you recommend a wire from the AUX- on the M1G to the - on the 12VDC power supply, and is there a preferred point to connect to this on the M1G?"

And what size should this wire be? Is it carrying a bunch of current, so that if the two power supplies are separated by 100 feet it should be fairly heavy gauge, or does it just serve as a reference voltage level requiring just 22 gauge?


You need to tie the negative connections of the M1G and Aux power supplies together if you are going to power anything that connects to the panel itself otherwise the databus has no reference point/common.
 
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