ELK M1G with DSC Siren on Output 2

[kxcntry99]

All:
 
I need some guidance with regard to the siren on output 2 of my M1G. Currently I have a speaker attached to output 1 which works as expected. Becuase the house is rather large and the speaker is downstairs, I added an interior siren on the second floor and connected it to output 2.
 
The siren is a DSC 15w - model SD15W but when connecting it to the system via output 2 I now have a trouble message for output 2 coming through. The M1G is set to voltage on G26 but I still get the error. Additionally when the alarm is tripped the siren does not sound.
 
From some research it sounds like I might need a resistor on output 2 if the siren iteself does not give enough resistance. However, to my thinking if this was the only problem, the siren would still sound when the alarm is tripped. The DSC siren does have a yelp and steady wiring for which I have no preference. I am currently wired for yelp via the red wire on the siren.
 
Is DSC not compatable with the M1G? Its just a siren I wouldn't think it would make a difference....

 

[tmbrown97]

The DSC Siren should work, but I wouldn't do it.  Out 2 is meant for exterior sirens - the M1 is really meant for speakers inside the house.
 
If you have volume coverage issues in your house, that means you also won't properly hear the voice alerts or other system sounds as you interact with the M1.  
 
The Echo speakers are very cheap - you should run a couple of those if it's too late to disperse SP12's around; just make sure you series/parallel them to keep them between 4 and 8 ohms.  Then you'll get the proper function of the speakers inside the house by keeping the interior on Out1 as intended.
 
I've also said in other threads - I'm personally against ever using sirens vs. speakers on the M1.  The M1 has a built-in siren driver which it'll use during an alarm sound.  All a Siren is is a speaker with a siren driver directly attached.  The problem is, it affects the M1's ability to properly supervise the circuit, control voltage draw, and when multiple siren drivers are sounding at once, it'll sound like jumbled crap - rather than having multiple speakers wailing the same perfect siren tone in perfect sync, inside and out.
 
And last - Out2 is really meant for outdoor and will sound under slightly different conditions.
 
Hell - if you REALLY want to use that DSC, I'd open it up, cut the Siren Driver out so it's just a speaker, and parallel it into Out1.

 

[kxcntry99]

Good points all around! With the siren I am currently working on I may actually want to have some of the "benefits" of using output 2. This siren is mounted outside the master bedroom. At that location I am really only looking for sound during an alarm event. Especially since when I come down in the AM to disarm, my wife is usually still asleep. I am not sure she would appreciate the "Area 1 is disarmed" voice at 6 am! This being the case, it sounds like I may still want to use output 2 and replace my DSC siren with an echo speaker. I can see the benefit of having all sounds in sync when an alarm goes off.
 
If i swap the siren for an ELK echo speaker, wire to output 2 and turn G26 back to no voltage I should be all set, correct? Would I need a resistor in this case?

 

[Del91574]

No resistor.
 
SP12F's would be my suggestion...cheap and trim, downside is the number needed to get the impedance correct.

 

[tmbrown97]

Yeah - it's all in how you approach it; for instance, many of us have a "quiet mode" of sorts that kills of any non-alarm voices and chimes - either manually via a function button, or via rules.
 
I use the speakers for more, such as my doorbell, announcements when it's time for the kids to head up for bath time, etc - so I want solid audio coverage throughout the house.  I even have a sound that plays when the kids get up in the middle of the night (via door contacts on their bedroom doors) so I can expect a possible intrusion, and at the same time it turns on the bathroom lights to 50% for them.
 
The possibilities are endless!