Elk Wiring

[nov0798]

OK, I recently bought an M1G. I would like to add another speaker, and siren to the unit (2 each in total). if I am understanding the instructions correctly, I can wire multiple speakers/sirens using parallel/series circuits as long as they do not exceed 4 ohms?

Do I need a siren/voice driver, or can I just use the main board to do this?

Thanks again

 

[Spanky]

You need a speaker(s) on output 1 so that you can have siren and voice announcements. Output 2 has a built in siren driver for outdoors. Just connect a speaker to it or you can change a Global Output 2 setting and have a voltage output on output 2 upon alarm.

OK, I recently bought an M1G. I would like to add another speaker, and siren to the unit (2 each in total). if I am understanding the instructions correctly, I can wire multiple speakers/sirens using parallel/series circuits as long as they do not exceed 4 ohms?

Do I need a siren/voice driver, or can I just use the main board to do this?

Thanks again

 

[tmbrown97]

Keep in mind for the sirens, those are just voltage outputs... you don't need to do the series/parallel for the Ohms, but you do have to make sure you're not consuming more power than it can take. Output 2 set as Voltage can only take 1 amp... Indoor sirens like the 70 or 71 (whichever is the siren) consumes 480ma, so 2 of those are the max. The outdoor sirens range - but the 150 natively is already too much at 1.2 unless you use millimiser dropping it to 700ma, but two of those would over-do it too. To add more, you'd need to use a relay and possible an additional power source.

 

[nov0798]

Ahhh, Ok, makes sense now.

Thanks so much!

 

[Spanky]

You can switch current directly off the battery through a relay to power sirens that draw more current than the control can deliver. You should put a fuse in series with this type connection for over current protection.

 

[nov0798]

I was actually thinking of using a computer power supply.
A basic 350 watt Antec has the following specs.

+3.3v with an amp rating of .5 to 20.0

+5.0v with an amp rating of .3 to 20.0

+12v with an amp rating of 1.0 to 10.0

This should power just about anything, and these things are cheap and everywhere.

 

[tmbrown97]

You can switch current directly off the battery through a relay to power sirens that draw more current than the control can deliver. You should put a fuse in series with this type connection for over current protection.

I like that idea - that answers one of the things I was just thinking about... like the power for the screamers and/or sirens on Out 3 that we're talking about in the other thread... unknowingly you answered a question before I had to go searching or ask!

nov0798: I'm sure that would work just fine, but seems big... and doing it that way, you'd have to worry about backup power as well in case you lose power. Going off the battery ensures that it keeps going even during a power failure, and doesn't add any additional equipment to your box. You could probably use a little scotch-lock or even a little splitter (get 'em at any auto-parts store even) and go to a 1Amp fuse holder to your sirens and make that very simple using Spanky's suggestion (all things I have laying around luckily, since I'll probably borrow this idea tomorrow to hook up Out3).

 

[nov0798]

yea a little big, but I was thinking for anything you may need an additional power source for. I use a computer supply as a test power source for many projects, and to power my cell phone charger when in the shop. i cut a hole in the case and installed a cigarette lighter in the case for 12v power

 

[nov0798]

Ok, I need to know if I am understanding the wiring of the M1 correctly.

I have a M1
I have it located in my basement in a panel.
I have between the main level and the basement 12 zones that will wire directly into the M1.
I also have 11 zones on my upstairs level that I may wish to wire in at some point in time.
I have a panel on my 3rd floor.

Is this how my wiring should be.

M1
12 zones wired to that
Out of the M1 RS 485 data bus to a Data Hub
Keypad on main level plugged into the Data Hub
Line from the Data Hub in the basement to another Data Hub on the 3rd floor in a panel.
Zone Expander to the Data Hub in the 3rd floor panel.
Keypad on the third floor to the Data Hub in the 3rd floor panel.
From the 3rd floor panel, and in the basement panel, I can add additional Hubs/Expanders as needed in the future. Anything else you guys can think of? I am trying to think ahead and run all the cable needed on the first try. I just want to make sure I have enough capability in the future.

Thanks
Brian

 

[nov0798]

Anyone?

 

[carry15+1]

I don't see a need for more than one data buss hub - located at the M1 in the basement.

The 1st floor can have a single 16 zone expander for your 11 zones, plus keypad(s)

Same with the 3rd floor in the future.

Keep in mind when connecting 12 zones to directly to the M1:

1) that if you chose to install remote temp sensors they must be connected to zones on the M1 MCB only, not expanders.
2) 2-wire smoke detectors can ONLY be connected to zone 16 on the M1 MCB.

 

[nov0798]

The reason for the two data bus hubs is so that I dont have to run long runs of cable to the basement from the attic. This way I only need to run one run from the basement to the 3rd floor and still accomplish the same thing. Also, I will still have 5 zones avail on the main board, and if I need to, i can add an expander which will free up all my main board zones. Plenty of options!

 

[felixrosbergen]

Spanky:

Can you confirm that with a 22/4 i can do the following: power an Rt150, separely power the strobe AND monitor the tamper switch?

I thought this should all be possible since it's 3 signal wires with a common negative right?

I suppose if i ran a 22/4 and was powering a speaker (i.e RT1) i would need 2 conductors leaving only enough conductors to EITHER run the strobe or monitor the tamper right?

 

[tmbrown97]

Spanky:

Can you confirm that with a 22/4 i can do the following: power an Rt150, separely power the strobe AND monitor the tamper switch?

I thought this should all be possible since it's 3 signal wires with a common negative right?

I suppose if i ran a 22/4 and was powering a speaker (i.e RT1) i would need 2 conductors leaving only enough conductors to EITHER run the strobe or monitor the tamper right?

That's what I'm curious about too... And could the speaker also share a negative as well?

MavRic - another thing to note is that Output 2 is also supervised... That said, you may not care as much about the tamper switch if it came down to making a choice. Though a schooled person could defeat this if they knew the specs, the average thief's tampering would cause a trouble situation. Using some of the rules we've been talking about lately, you could turn that into a zone violation.