Everfocus Outdoor Dome CAM


A question to camera security gurus. Moved thread from original.

The replacement outdoor dome I installed is an Everfocus Model EHD350/H-1. It faces SW.


Right off noticed that my field of view is smaller than previous dome. I need to adjust it a bit.

Noticed that I can adjust a few settings on it and would like some recommendations:

Here are the specs - will most likely unplug the heater.

Pickup Device 1/3†Sony Interline Transfer Super HAD CCD
Video Format NTSC or PAL
Picture Format 768 x 494 (NTSC) / 752 x 582 (PAL)
Horizontal Resolution 560 TVL
Video Output BNC 1.0 Vp-p, 75 ohm
Sensitivity 0.5 Lux/F=1.2
S/N Ratio Over 48dB (AGC Off)
Electronic Shutter 1/50 (1/60) ~ 1/100,000 sec.
Sync. Mode Line Lock/Internal Sync.
Flickerless On/Off switch
Backlight Comp. On/Off switch
Auto Gain Control On/Off switch
Auto White Balance Yes
Gamma Correction 0.45
Iris Level Adjustable
Lens Built-in vari-focal f=9~22mm / f=2.9~10mm
Dimensions (W x H x D) 130 x 98.8 x 130 mm / 5.1†x 3.9†x 5.1â€
Operating Temp. -40°C ~ 50°C / -40°F ~ 122°F
Humidity 20% ~ 80% humidity
Power Source 12VDC/24VAC
Power Consumption With Heater:
24VAC: 20.5W max. / 12VDC: 11.5W max.
Without Heater:
24VAC: 6W max. / 12VDC: 4W max.
Weight 1.7 kg / 3.7 lbs.
Weatherproof IP66 rated
Vandal Resistant Yes

Attached are two cropped pictures. One is old cam and the other is new cam.
I've adjusted cam to give me maximum FOV.

I am having a problem with the camera though and currently testing it in the house. It seems to work well outside for only about 15 minutes or so. Not totally sure but it shuts itself off (shutter). I can hear a "clicking" from the camera. Originally before I adjusted it noticed that night view was "flickering" from deck lighting. The next day I adjusted the FOV, line-lock is off, AGC is off, BLC is normal, Flickerless function is on and electronic shutter is on.

Yesterday noticed that it would only work for about 15 minutes then the picture would go "off". During this time I could "hear" clicking from the camera (shutter?). I brought it inside to validate its functions. It's been connected and powered on all night and functioning fine. Will test again today outside. I believe its one of the dip switch settings and the ambient sunlight which is causing the shutter to close. The lens itself doesn't ever face the sun where it is positioned today.
Pete - I see Pan Tilt listed - is that manual /move & lock?
Impressive for the price to be IP66 + have a heater -
Now if it would only work perfectly...
Pete, I by no means am an expert, and I dont know this camers at all... but I would check the AGC switch and try to turn it on.
Playing this morning. Checked connections again.

I see Pan Tilt listed - is that manual /move & lock?

It is.

but I would check the AGC switch and try to turn it on.

Turned it on and off. States in manual to turn it off for good low light readings.

1 - Cat5E - tested with cable tester to be a good connection - although other cam has been in place now for 5 years with baluns.
2 - double checked baluns - tested ok
3 - tested camera over night inside of house connected to same two baluns - worked fine.
4 - set all dip switches to default
5 - put back outside and plugged in.
6 - I "hear" the shutter clicking - I get no picture
7 - played with AGC and Iris pot - no change
8 - played with dips again - no change
9 - decided to unplug heater (it was plugged in but assuming it was not functioning in the house - but noticed that camera case was warm)
10 - now its working.

Testing in the house and outside is with the same separate 6 AMP power brick.

I think the heating circuit is going on by default. Didn't check the exact voltage other than knowing its 12VDC but wondering if its less because of the heating circuit draw causing the problem?

Now to focus it again - with laptop. Thanks guys for your suggestions.

Its pretty focused now and working well. Tonight will test the AGC / Flicker from porch lights - hopefully no flicker.
Your mention of 'heat circuit' raised a flag. From the specs listed above, the camera is drawing around one amp with a 12 volt DC supply. Do you have an adequate power supply (amperage) for this draw? What gauge of wire and for what distance are you using to power the camera?
I am using about 100 feet of Cat5E with baluns. Testing cam with its own unique 12VDC 6 AMP power supply. Just wondering why the heater is drawing power as its supposed to turn on with only cold temperatures. (10C)
I agree it sounds like a power problem, maybe it trys to start the heater on boot up before it knows the temperature? and because the power is being drawn down over the cat5 it never really boots....

Check the voltage at the camera while at the end of the cat5
Thanks Todd.

Odd too that the whole unit was kind of warm after testing it all night inside of the house. Will check voltage at the other end of the CAT5 balun.

Picture is decent comparing it to cheaper outdoor dome. One thing that I would notice with clouds / sun would be a very sudden change in brightness of the old domes. I've changed the frame rate to 20 FPS with this one for testing.
I always use this brand for our client install and I really like it. I've experienced that same problem (clicking sound) before and found out its the DC power supply that was causing it.
Check your power and also make sure you use at least two pairs of cat 5 for your power( one pair each side). For the settings, I normally just leave it to default and just adjust the field of view. Set the line lock to off since you are using DC supply. I normally leave AGC to on.
Actually running 6 amps right now with a very "cheap" balun. Thanks for the suggestions folks.

Yes - will be updating baluns. I do have siamese running to the same "box".

Dropped PS back to .5 AMP. Noticing as the sun goes down colors don't really match other cam. So need to adjust some more.
Trying another camera to see how it works:

Ebay Cam

Meanwhile still playing with Everfocus. It works well for day view but night view either is too dark or flickers much.

I know the camera can see decent at night with deck lights, carriage lighting and ambient "night" lights when its flickering. So playing with settings a bit more. I should actually to the testing of the dip switches at night in one sitting.

1st test - FL=OFF, BLC=ON, AGC=ON and LL=OFF - day great picture - night and early morninging - flickers between good and not so good.

2nd test - FL=OFF, BLC=ON, AGC=OFF and LL=OFF