Front Door Access and Locking

jedinite7

Member
Been reading a bit about electric strikes, mag locks, electrified handleset, card readers, etc. I have gotten myself turned around several times and am confused on what setup would meet my needs. I figured it would be best to post the features I want in a system then let you all help me whittle it down.

I currently have a wooden front door with a tubular handleset with no locking features. Above that is a deabolt that has a lever on the inside and a key hole on the outside. There is about 24" of space on the jamb side. I don't mind tearing out the wall if I have to get the best solution. Also we "may" be getting a new door, so if I cannot get all the features I want with this door I can wait. I just want to be able to design it now and prewire. I have an ELK.

Features that I must have:
1. Emergency egress whether or not power is present by opening the door in a normal manner. I do not want a large button, or relying on battery backed up PIR, etc.
2. Fairly strong security, in that the door can't be easily kicked in, or simple credit card tricks. If I need to make changes to the jamb or door frame I will. The door now is solid wood and pretty sturdy.
3. System knowledge of the state of the lock (ie. door is locked or unlocked).
4. Ability to tie the operation of locking or unlocking into the ELK or other automation system.
5. Have a secondary entry method that does not require power, or properly working automation, like a key.

Nice to haves (which should be doable with 3 and 4 from above as the base):
1. Ability to remotely unlock from phone to let a neighbor or house keeper in.
2. When everyone has left the house and it is alarmed make sure doors are locked. If not lock them. Same thing for night mode.
3. Unlock the door using some type of RFID where the user doesn't need to get anything out of their pocket or swipe a card. They just have to be a few feet from the door.

"Features" I do not want:
1. Having to replace batteries.
2. Wife says it cannot be too industrial or commercial looking.

Based on some posts by DEL and others and their usual ugliness I'd say maglocks are out. The kwikset and schlage zwave look good, but I don't want to replace batteries. Electric strikes with appropriate handle looks like it might work. How does one deal with the deadbolt in this case. Also how secure are the electric stikes. Anyone have a link to a good electrified handle that would work and maybe a tutorial to coring a solid wood door and adding electrified hinge. I think I should start there and look at access control a little later. Thanks.

Colby
 
I've got a bunch of the Schlage locks. Only one of them has Zwave. But it's been over 3 years on the non-zwave ones and I haven't had to touch a battery in any of them. The Zwave one was just installed 5-6 months ago and I haven't had to mess with that battery either.
 
Thanks for the info. A couple questions for follow up. Can you remotely check status or control the normal Schlage locks, if so which model. Also I thought I read that a couple people were having a terrible time with the batteries, but can't find it now. Do the Schlage handle preload on the door well. I have weatherstripping and some small alignment issues that cause a decent preload.
 
I watched the Worthington HAI & Z-Wave lock seminar, it was pretty good. Explained a great deal of the equipment setup and Z-wave system and interface to HAI.

One of the things noted was the Kwikset, Yale and Baldwin Z-Wave deadbolts all had tapered bolts so they were able to compensate for slight changes in door alignment (swelling, etc) with change in seasons.
I don't know if the Schlage Z-wave dead bolt has the tapreed bolt, but it is manually operated so it might not need it.
 
You can remotly check the Z-wave ones...just need a Z-wave controller. (now I sound like Rupp here...) Homeseer can do it. (now I don't) I think the Vera 2 or 3 or something like that can do it as well. Schalge also has a Link thing...but in order to use that you need to pay a service fee to them.

I use 1 Schlage deadbolt on the front door, 1 lever on the mudroom door. I wanted to use schalge on BOTH the lever and the deadbolt for the front door, but the lever is kind of big...so it did not fit.

When I get the $$, I'll probably add a Kwickset lever to the front door, should fit. I really suggest the Schalge deadbolt, since it's a manually turned tumbler...so you don't wear it out if the door is not aligned properly.

--Dan
 
Given the fact you have an Elk, honestly, the most robust and secure way to go would be to install an actual electric strike, something like either an HES 8000 series or Securitron Unlatch would be my suggestions. No hardware or lock change would technically be necessary. Inside handleset would be able to be turned to get out (REX function) and no button or PIR/REX would be needed. Your normal keys you have now would get you in if needed/emergency. I'd only suggest Zwave if you really only want to unlock/lock a deadbolt.

Doors can be always locked then only unlocked on an access event, schedule or via a fob or prox event, if you decide to put a prox reader in. Can also fire the relay via an automation event triggered via a smartphone if you have an XEP or via a direct dial in on a phone line.

I see the nice part about going Z-wave and wireless, but I think a nice strike and prox is more secure and works better, as long as the door doesn't have a preload problem/issue.
 
I hate battery replacement. I currently have about 6 wireless sensors, plus TV remotes and such. I replace batteries all the time. For my new house I'm planning on using the Securitron Unlatch hardwired to a panel. Many great reviews on it.
 
OP mentioned basic strength of the door and jamb. I had a front door kicked in a long time ago and I did a fair amount of looking into this. There is a lot of information around on this if you look for it.

Use long screws that go well into the studs behind the strike. The inch long screws that come with inexpensive locks for the strike are not nearly enough. Standard construction is a double stud behind the strike and that is pretty good. There are various other improvements - stikes with 4 screws (2 in the bottom of the pocket), L shaped heavy sheet metal that goes behind the jamb and over the inside face of the jamb that is anchored with several large screws, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Prod-9539-Reinforcer/dp/B0018DO4HI/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

In my case the deadbolt and door knob latch simply broke out through the face of the door. Unless this area of the door is oak other hardwood I would look at reinforcing it. I used a wrap around reinforcer similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5VJAI
 
The Securiton Unlatch looks pretty close to perfect, for a residential install.

Thank you.

Are you sure about that? It looks to me like it will only work with a specific door-side handle/lock. Most residential locks have the deadlatch pin along side of the spring latch. The install manual shows the deadlatch above the spring latch with a separate pluger to release the deadlatch. I don't see how this will release a "standard" deadlatch.

Code:
http://www.securitron.com/Other/Securitron/Documents/InstallationInstructions/ElectromechanicalLocks/MUNL_500-18800.pdf


Maybe theres another model I'm missing??
 
Are you sure about that? It looks to me like it will only work with a specific door-side handle/lock. Most residential locks have the deadlatch pin along side of the spring latch. The install manual shows the deadlatch above the spring latch with a separate pluger to release the deadlatch. I don't see how this will release a "standard" deadlatch.

Code:
http://www.securitron.com/Other/Securitron/Documents/InstallationInstructions/ElectromechanicalLocks/MUNL_500-18800.pdf


Maybe theres another model I'm missing??

You've got it. The MUNL you are showing is the Mortise UNLatch version. There is a standard version.

Here is s neat animation of the MUNL version if anyone cares to check it out:
http://www.securitron.com/en/site/securitron/Library/Product-Animations/Product-Animation-MUNL-Mortise-UnLatch-Strike/

Here is the standard UNLatch version:

http://www.securitron.com/en/site/securitron/Library/Product-Animations/Product-Animation-UNL-UnLatch-Strike/
 
Gatchel, that's pretty neat!

If you are going to go that far, might as well get one of these as well:
http://entryenforcer.com/index.php?q=node/9

I put one of those on my front door.

--Dan
 
Gatchel, that's pretty neat!

If you are going to go that far, might as well get one of these as well:
http://entryenforcer...ex.php?q=node/9

I put one of those on my front door.

--Dan

I always thought that those were pretty neat but I have used aluminum strips behind the wood door edge between the door frame and the studs where the shims go. I have never installed a 5 foot piece but anything that distributes the force over a larger area is better than nothing. The strike master product is a bit cleaner and easier to install as it doesn't involve removing the trim.

Now, try to install one of the strikemaster strips with an Electric strike or Unlatch. That would be very "fun" to say the least.
 
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