GRI Water Sensors

gcimmino

Active Member
Folks, I'm looking to setup a bunch of water sensors for roof leak detection, broken washer hoses, hot water heater leaks, etc.

Since this is for a remote location and I'm looking for more than a few sensors, I'm thinking more along the lines of the GRI 2600 than sensors like the waterbug. That's so I can wire a 2600 per zone and have an idea of where the issue is without having the "processor" overhead/cost of the waterbug type units.

First, any pros/cons of this approach? Experience with these sensors or other suggestions?

Second, anyone know the run length limitations and/or what gauge wiring should be used? The building is 70' long so that's probably the longest I'd need for a roof sensor back to the panel.

Thanks
 
I guess I would question how you would use them for roof leak sensors. I think it is a great idea. I unfortunately have had too many roof leaks but I don't see how these could be used effectively. A roof leak can start virtually anywhere and be just a small drip. That drip will either run down a truss into some cavity, or drip onto the insulation. These sensors will only detect a 'pool' of water and I just don't see how you can use that for the roof unless your attic space was like a big funnel where everything came down to 1 spot and there was no insulation to soak it up along the way.
 
I guess I would question how you would use them for roof leak sensors. I think it is a great idea. I unfortunately have had too many roof leaks but I don't see how these could be used effectively. A roof leak can start virtually anywhere and be just a small drip. That drip will either run down a truss into some cavity, or drip onto the insulation. These sensors will only detect a 'pool' of water and I just don't see how you can use that for the roof unless your attic space was like a big funnel where everything came down to 1 spot and there was no insulation to soak it up along the way.

Very true in the general case. Our specific application is a bit strange... It's a turn of the century (last one that is) two story commercial building. It had a gabled roof where the sides sloped down to parapets. Undoubtedly water used to pool there. About 20 years ago, it was covered with a flat roof that sloped from front to back. During renovation, various holes were put through the roof for vents and rooftop HVAC compressor.

So, while it's true that water can leak in anywhere and run anywhere and that is complicated more by having two roofs, one over the other, there are some obvious weak points.

Its those points, where the vents are cut through, that we'd like to monitor, particularly since this place isn't always occupied.
 
I usually use the GRI 2800 when only using 1 or 2 water detectors since they are powered by the zone and only require 2 wires. For your situation, the GRI 2600 seems like a great choice. 22-4 wire should be fine for the length of runs you describe. GRI makes excellent products, I have never had any issues with them.

Keep an eye on your total power requirements. They only use 10 mA each so you may be O.K. but it depends on what else you are powering. With a large number of sensors, you may need an aux power supply and I would make sure it is a supervised supply with battery back-up. I like to keep mission critical stuff on the main power supply and offload lower priority stuff to the aux supply.

Edit: Clarification
 
Its also imperative you have the minimun voltagae requirement. it MUST be at least five volts, or they dont work. after installing test everyone with a volt meter.
 
I use the GRI 2800's as well and I have never had a problem with them. I just added two more the past few weeks in a small water closet type bathroom. They work well with the ELK M1.

In addition to the normal applications I use them near the drains for washing machines and have the ELK turn off the washing machine via an X-10 module (formally with Insteon modules). This prevents an overflow from the washing machine draining causing a huge mess (been there).

I also am about to add one to the utility sink about 4 inches from the top. If the sink is about to overflow it will shut the house water off via the water cop valve (ELK has since come out with their own).

I know someone that put one under each baseboard heating unit (the hot water type) in case that leaked it would shut off the circulating pump.

There are a ton of uses for these.
 
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