Hardwired lighting control and desk lamps, free-standing lamps, plug-in lamps

AceCannon

Active Member
I tentatively plan to use hardwired lighting control in my new construction. (Probably On-q ALC, or some other "cat5 to each switch" solution).

But the problem (in my mind) is desk lamps and other plug-in lamps. Even with Vantage and other higher-end solutions, I wouldn't think it possible (or code-compliant) to control wall-receptacles with dimmable load controls. I could always deploy Insteon, X10, Zwave, UPB plug-in modules and control via my planned CQC / Elk, but then I have two separate lighting control technologies at work. The wife loves her lamps. There has to be a clever solution to this problem. .
 
I tentatively plan to use hardwired lighting control in my new construction. (Probably On-q ALC, or some other "cat5 to each switch" solution).

But the problem (in my mind) is desk lamps and other plug-in lamps. Even with Vantage and other higher-end solutions, I wouldn't think it possible (or code-compliant) to control wall-receptacles with dimmable load controls. I could always deploy Insteon, X10, Zwave, UPB plug-in modules and control via my planned CQC / Elk, but then I have two separate lighting control technologies at work. The wife loves her lamps. There has to be a clever solution to this problem. .


Hello:

I am a newbie here and based on my research what I am understanding is that for this very same problem is why there are so many different technologies. There is no "one size fits all" approach to HA. Some are more practicle than others. Specifically, in your case if you need to control a desk lamp (or several others for that matter) a $5 X10 socket & $20 X10 PIM (powerline interface module...so your CQC computer or Elk can send the X10 commands to powerlines) off of ebay should do the trick...again, i'm not a expert! But thats how i understand it to work.

And you can still control them from ELk and/or CQC. Either controllers (CQC or ElK) both have capabilities to generate & program X10 commands. You will need to write the programs (interfaces in CQC).

You will need to install the X10 driver support for both.

Thats my 1 1/2 cents.....

Good Luck.
 
Specifically, in your case if you need to control a desk lamp (or several others for that matter) a $5 X10 socket & $20 X10 PIM (powerline interface module...so your CQC computer or Elk can send the X10 commands to powerlines) off of ebay should do the trick...again, i'm not a expert! But thats how i understand it to work.

And you can still control them from ELk and/or CQC. Either controllers (CQC or ElK) both have capabilities to generate & program X10 commands. You will need to write the programs (interfaces in CQC).

You will need to install the X10 driver support for both.

Yes, I mentioned the X10, Insteon, Zwave, UPB possibilities in my original post. It just seems relatively bush-league after a hardwired installation for everything else. I could always try to connect some hardwired wall switch dimmers to wall receptacles after inspection, but that seems kludgy at best, lethal at worst.
 
There are non-kludgy ways to do it.

The simplest way is to buy a special Lutron outlet and then control that outlet from a dimmer. This outlet has a "bump" that takes a special Lutron plug. Regular plugs won't work. Yes, you have to replace the plugs on your lamps. This will work with any lighting control system.

What I have done with my Lutron system is use wireless dimmers (any well-designed Lutron system should have wireless capability) and make a plug-in lamp dimmer. I used 2 gang handy boxes and put the dimmer on one side and an outlet on the other. Power is supplied by a heavy duty drill replacement cord and wired to the dimmer, the dimmer's load is wired to the outlet. Put a cover on it and put it under the couch/desk etc.

It can then be controlled as any other dimmer in the system.

Lutron also makes wireless Lamp dimmers that do basically the same thing, but at 300 watts, they are too small for my needs. But they have a nice tabletop button to turn the lamp on locally.
 
There are non-kludgy ways to do it.

The simplest way is to buy a special Lutron outlet and then control that outlet from a dimmer. This outlet has a "bump" that takes a special Lutron plug. Regular plugs won't work. Yes, you have to replace the plugs on your lamps. This will work with any lighting control system.

What I have done with my Lutron system is use wireless dimmers (any well-designed Lutron system should have wireless capability) and make a plug-in lamp dimmer. I used 2 gang handy boxes and put the dimmer on one side and an outlet on the other. Power is supplied by a heavy duty drill replacement cord and wired to the dimmer, the dimmer's load is wired to the outlet. Put a cover on it and put it under the couch/desk etc.

It can then be controlled as any other dimmer in the system.

Lutron also makes wireless Lamp dimmers that do basically the same thing, but at 300 watts, they are too small for my needs. But they have a nice tabletop button to turn the lamp on locally.


That sounds similar to what I've done for lamps around my house. At least one difference is that I am using upb. The biggest problem I was trying to deal with was making it easy enough to control the lamp without reaching for the switch on the lamp itself. The upb lamp modules claim a 'manual override' feature that will cause a lamp to turn on from the lamps own switch. In practice, this only works for turning the lamp on. If the switch is used to turn the lamp off... it stays off.

My solution was to place a regular duplex outlet (though those lutron w/bump you mentioned sound even better) inside a Leviton surface mount workbox and an SA US2-40 inside another. A grounded 8ft extension cord was cut into three peices. The female end was discarded, the male end was left with 2ft of cord and connected to the duplex outlet and the remaining 6ft was used to connect the two. After plugging in, the duplex outlet sits on the floor where lamps can be plugged in and the control is put on a nearby end table. It's not real stylish, but it works great.... and of course, you get to choose your faceplate. Oh, dont forget rubber feet or felt for the bottoms of the work boxes.

IMG_0732.JPG
 
The simplest way is to buy a special Lutron outlet and then control that outlet from a dimmer. This outlet has a "bump" that takes a special Lutron plug. Regular plugs won't work. Yes, you have to replace the plugs on your lamps. This will work with any lighting control system.
Definitely interesting. I've done a bunch of searches for these outlets without success. You don't happen to have a name, model number, or link, do you?

What I have done with my Lutron system is use wireless dimmers (any well-designed Lutron system should have wireless capability) and make a plug-in lamp dimmer. I used 2 gang handy boxes and put the dimmer on one side and an outlet on the other. Power is supplied by a heavy duty drill replacement cord and wired to the dimmer, the dimmer's load is wired to the outlet. Put a cover on it and put it under the couch/desk etc.
Lutron is not part of my plan, but this would work with OnQ ALC, as well. I could just make some dimmers with wall switches, outlets, and two-gang boxes, put them under the couch. Have rj45 jacks or whatever in the floor next to the regular 120v outlet, plug the whole kit in. Excellent idea.
 
Just insert a contactor for switching the load, if you want dimming then just wire the output to whatever dimmer you plan to use as normal.
 
regarding the Lutron dimmable receptacles:

Model Number is NTR-15-DFDU-xx for a 15Amp duplex

or if you just want one dimmable and have the other outlet regular then

NTR-15-HFDU

Hope that helps
 
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