Hardwired Lighting System Using Cat5

sic, If i may interject, YES< it is a must that both hot and neutral be in the switch gang box. Most electricians do this already but sometimes to save space in a gang, some will just run the switch wire from the light with the hot already run to the light. If that is the way yours is done, alc will not work. It MUST have power and neutral connected to the switch.

however, i have often wondered in a scenario whereby there is only a switch leg in the switch gang box, if it would hurt to run another hot/neutral back down to the light. I see this appearing when we enter a home that already has the rough in done and no hot/nuetral in the gang box. I have already been in a situation where three way is already hard wire rough-in and i still havent figure out how to re-wire that so its a one way. there is a thread on it but i really need a drawing, LOL. there are pics in the thread but a schematic would sure aid my situation. (we have a situation where the electrician roughed in 3 way and we dont need it with on-q alc, but its nice that it is there IF i can leave the wiring and just reconfigure, just in case at some point in future the alc gets ripped out, dont see that happening though).
 
number20, SUPER explanation. even better to hear about a 100 alc install with ZERO fails! Do you mean zero fails as in not one was defective or didnt work and/or never broke to date? or do you litterally mean there has been ZERO instances of it not working EVER? not even one switch. Not even requiring you to hit the button twice? if you are saying its been 100% functional 100% of the time, WOW! What more could someone need to hear before KNOWING that alc IS the way to go?

I dont even think lutron is 100%.
 
Number20 - I noticed in your little slide show that slide #4 seems to indicate that you need both hot and neutral at the switch location. Is that a requirement for the On-Q system? I will be doing a remodel job on my house, and I would be surprised if the wires are run with both hot and neutral at the switch. Some switches may be wired that way, but there is no way that all of them are.

Chances are that neutral and hot are both present in the switch box. Here's why.

If the orginal installer was lazy (or wanted to spend the least amount of time on a ladder), then they would have made all neutral connections inside the wall switch box. This is because the other choice is to make them up in the light box overhead which requires more ladder time. ether choice is code though.

Older houses saw a lot of overhead neutrals. Newer homes are almost exclusively wired with the neutral in the wall switch box (the faster eaier method).

I hope you get lucky.

Tony Stewart
www.setnetpro.com
 
I have an older house, and I know for a fact that at least one of the bedroom switches has power at the light, not the switch :)

However, most of the areas of the house I have access to pull more wire. I guess I could always pull more romex along with the cat5. It's only time and money, right?
 
number20, SUPER explanation. even better to hear about a 100 alc install with ZERO fails! Do you mean zero fails as in not one was defective or didnt work and/or never broke to date? or do you litterally mean there has been ZERO instances of it not working EVER? not even one switch. Not even requiring you to hit the button twice? if you are saying its been 100% functional 100% of the time, WOW! What more could someone need to hear before KNOWING that alc IS the way to go?

I dont even think lutron is 100%.

I can't advise about Lutron. In our Lutron testing, the wired versions never failed while the RadioRa had too many failures for my taste. As you learn more about SETNET you will realize that quality of product is one of our prime reasons for selling the product. Should you ever come to one of our classroom sessions, ask to see our collection of test equipment for all subsystems. We really do put products to the acid test before endorsing them.

Now for your question. Yes - 100% with never a false or missed trigger and no failures since install last year. You may have read an earlier post about the Smarthouse conversion we did in April in Hawaii. That house was a 4 story and was totally smart. Now it's totally OnQ ALC. And it too had no failures and no bad parts.

We sell ALC to many installers, probably more than any single location anywhere. So we do get phone calls related to failures. OnQ tech support reports to me that there is about 1-2% failure rate that gets covered under warranty repair. With the numbers I offer, I say that most of those were:
1. Not bad at all (most common reason for a return to OnQ).
2. Damaged during install. If you hook the high voltage to the low voltage leads, you will let the smoke out and guess what? The smoke never goes back inside the switch.
3. The LV wires were terminated inside the box and became pinched when the switch is put inside and faceplate is installed. This is a common reason for believing a switch has failed. But when it is removed from the box and shipped for repair, nothing is found to be wrong.
4. A storm surge smokes them. For this reason we sell a really cool Low Voltage Loop - Surge Arrestor . Note that surge damage is not as common as you may think.

The good news is that OnQ fixes or warranties switches many times when they really did not have too. And the out of warranty price to completely repair one is under $25.

Also remember that the ALC switch has been around for over 12 years. So it has history (one of the prime reasons I choose a product to sell). I have been the guinea pig way too many times and all the no new wires lighting products have got me real gun shy. I wish them well, but I am a doubting Thomas. And I want %100 (at least in new construction).

I will not slant my advice to promote what I sell. That would be a lie and I won't go there. But, I will strongly promote what we know to be solid products that meet our standards.

Over the years as an installer we did monster houses for Pro Atheletes, rock stars, nascar drivers and many of the just plain wealthy. Some of these folks wound up being where I "burned and learned". Even then I never charged for my learning curve. Instead I ate the bad products and the labor. Today we are wise enough to refuse to be a test case again. Today we leverage years of war experience to benefit people like you. It's a good chemistry if you trust our advice.

As a founder of the first Electronic House trade show in Orlando, I have seen many trade show over the years. And I have seen many venture capitalist throw money at the "Next Great Product". Way too many times the biggest boothes at the trade shows or the largest ads in magazines spent all the VC money and 3 year later went away. the bad news is that many of the real losers was the installers or the end users. Also - Something that glitters is not always Gold! the VC money believes that if you build it they will come. And many do. Then they run out of funds and give up. Go back a few years and research (if you can find it) the history of the CEbus lighting system. Millions was spent on that dream and today you will be hard pressed to find mention of the product.

Moral of the story is to pick products with longevity and a proven track record. 3 years and big marketing does not impress me!
 
I can't advise about Lutron. In our Lutron testing, the wired versions never failed while the RadioRa had too many failures for my taste.
My Homeworks Wireless has one device that is sketchy. It fails about one in 20 times. Don't know why, but I am going to swap it out. None of the others have ever missed a command.
 
herd, thats 5% of the time. so that doesnt sound good.

but the percentage of your overall system, depending on how many switches you have, goes WAY down. so that sounds better. LOL


I can't advise about Lutron. In our Lutron testing, the wired versions never failed while the RadioRa had too many failures for my taste.
My Homeworks Wireless has one device that is sketchy. It fails about one in 20 times. Don't know why, but I am going to swap it out. None of the others have ever missed a command.
 
the real losers was the installers or the end users.

Moral of the story is to pick products with longevity and a proven track record. 3 years and big marketing does not impress me!
Can anyone hazard a guess at the Next Big Failure? :)
 
herd, thats 5% of the time. so that doesnt sound good.
Yeah, I think it is a bad device. It controls the light in the MBR closet and my wife always left it on, so I have it come on and off with the MBR lights, so the closet light doesn't get left on all night. But I have since found matching Lutron Maestro Timer switches that have been installing in other closets, so I am going to replace that device with a Timer.

Just as well as I am up against the 64 load limit of a Homeworks processor and I don't want to add a second processor.
 
herd, you have some bucks in that!

luck to us.


herd, thats 5% of the time. so that doesnt sound good.
Yeah, I think it is a bad device. It controls the light in the MBR closet and my wife always left it on, so I have it come on and off with the MBR lights, so the closet light doesn't get left on all night. But I have since found matching Lutron Maestro Timer switches that have been installing in other closets, so I am going to replace that device with a Timer.

Just as well as I am up against the 64 load limit of a Homeworks processor and I don't want to add a second processor.
 
sace, yes it has an interface x10 interface. BUT i am not sure that means that the elk will control it using x10 controls. i think it means you can add x10 lights to this system interface (on-q lighting controller).

do you have the elk?

if not i would scratch this lighting system set up in the link and just go with an HMS. why? this lighting control ONLY controls lights! if you had the hms, it would give you the lighting control as well as all the other expandable controls capabilities. this controller you are looking at, in the link, is for customers that want nothing but lighting control.

in your explanation, what x10 would control the on-q? i am not following you. would be more than happy to talk on phone if you want.

Well actually you can do some automation with the stand alone lighting controller from OnQ. There is a module that handles I/O and you can string quite a few of these together. However after a couple of these are installed it's wiser to use an HMS, Omni or ELK M1. There is also a module to add time/date events.

While there is an X-10 port on the stand alone ALC controller, it is not how HMS. Omni or Elk controls the lighting. With OnQ HMS you can use the onboard lighting controller. With the HAI Omni you add an external ALC interface that plugs into the data bus. With ELK, you use an ALC interface made by OnQ to link to the M1 data bus (older method was to do this with serial interfaces). The X-10 port is so that you can add X-10 to your lighting schedule (optional).

One important note about the onboard ALC interface with the OnQ HMS controller. It unlike the optional ALC interface that plugs into the data bus, does not contain the capability to do scene lighting without programming.

More specifically......

With the onboard HMS ALC interface you must use lines of code to program scenes.
With the external interface (which also contains all the circuitry of the ALC stand alone lighting controller) you can do scene programming from the ALC scene swithces and no lines of programming code are needed. The user simply holds one of the scene switch buttons in for 15 seconds until it blinks, then sets all ALC switches to desired levels, then presses the button again to exit programming mode.

HAI makes all the OnQ HMS controllers for OnQ and almost all features are exactly the same (along with interchangeable interfaces/keypads). The main difference between the two lines is that ALC support (with the scene programming lmitiations I described) is present in OnQ HMS controllers and must be added though an interface with HAI omni controllers.

The HAI Omni line currently has some programming options not available to HMS. SHould OnQ upgrade their firmware then the programming features would then be the same. And the HAI Omin is geared to retrofit markets whereas the OnQ HMS comes ready to plug into their structured wiring enclosures (primarily new construction).

For a very detailed comparison of the features between the three systems Check this out
 
I installed an EDT i-line system in my new house by myself 2 years ago. The switches are very responsive and I have had no problems at all. I am controlling every load in the house (64) with the switches. The i-line software is a little hard to grasp initially, but if you are controlling with an ELK, there is no need to use the i-line software.

They do not have lamp modules, so for planning purposes, if you want a lamp controlled by the system, make sure you have the lamp outlet controlled via a switch.

Pete

What is your (NEC) code-compliant solution for a _dimmed_ lamp using EDT i-line?

... Marc
The way we worked with the code is that the CAT5 is there to control a device (the i-line switch). That way, it was allowed in the box with the HV wiring. We had to show that the insulation rating was at least 300V and we went to the manufacturer of the CAT5 wire to get the answer for the inspector.
 
The polling loop for the ALC switch is normally 4 volts. It only uses two wires so the other 6 in the cat5 are spares.

So does this mean that if I have a quad gang box, with 4 ALC switches in it, I would only need to run 1 Cat5 cable to that box?
 
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