BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
How-To Create a Poor-Mans Automated Watering System
(Using a Standard Sprinkler Control Valve)
by BraveSirRobbin
This How-To was created due to the request of Cocooners (from THIS thread) wanting to know how to create an automated watering system that can be controlled by common home automation systems and attached to an outdoor watering faucet.
First our standard disclamair:
CocoonTech.com and its staff are NOT responsible for any injury or property damage resulting from anyone using this How-To guide or any associatied pictures or links.
Description:
The information below will show you the parts needed for this project as well as how to properly assemble and implement them so you can automate a lawn sprinkler, plant watering system, etc...
Be aware that there are many types of valves with many different plumbing configurations. The parts chosen for this How-To were purchased at a Lowes Hardware store in Las Vegas, but, links were found so equivalent parts can be ordered by anyone via the Internet. The only exception is for the three plumbing adapters (links could not be found), but hopefully their descriptions are detailed enough so they can easily be purchased at your local hardware store.
Parts Listing:
3/4 inch Orbit Sprinkler Valve Model 57100
Orbit 24 VAC Transformer Model 57040
In-Line Fuse Holder
1/2 amp Slow Blow Fuse (For Operating One Valve).
Appliance Module (X-10 Shown Here)
One Roll of Teflon Tape
Plus the following three pipe/plumbing adapters:
3/4 Inch Hex Nipple (Watts A-875)
Swivel Hose Adapter 3/4 inch FH x 3/4 inch FIP (Watts A-661)
Tapped Hose Adapter 3/4 inch MH x 3/4 inch MIP x tapped FIP (Watts A-665)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Orbit Brand Valve and AC Adapter
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Orbit Brand Valve and AC Adapter
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Orbit Brand Valve and AC Adapter
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Plumbing Adapters/Fittings
Assembly:
Assemble the three adapters onto the valve as shown in the picture below. Note that the valve has arrows in the inlet and outlet which indicate water flow direction. Please be sure to follow this flow direction so the female hose adapter is in the inlet and the male in the outlet of the valve. Also be sure to use Teflon tape on all of the adapters during assembly. Tighten all adapters securely (do not over tighten as the plastic in the valve's case will crack).
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Water Flow Arrow on Valve
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Assembled Adapters on Valve
This valve assembly can now be mounted on an outdoor faucet as shown below. Note that this particular faucet has an anti-siphon valve attached (included with the faucet). Note that local codes/safety ordinances may require an anti-siphon valve so no outdoor water can backflow into your home's drinking supply.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Assembled Unit on Outdoor Faucet
The valve requires 24 Volts AC for it's operation. Orbit provides an adapter for this purpose. Any UL approved 24 VAC class 2 transformer/adapter can be used as long as it can supply approximately 0.5 amps of current. This particular adapter can provide 0.75 amps.
This adapter can be controlled via an appliance module or relay contact/closure of your choosing. An X-10 appliance module is used in this first example. Note that you may want to use electrical tape to secure the adapter to the appliance module due to its weight. A short extension cord may also be used instead.
It is good practice to fuse the output of the 24 VAC adapter. You can use an in-line fuse holder with a 0.5 amp fuse (for powering one valve assembly). Make sure you wire the in-line fuse adapter near the adapter itself.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Appliance Module and In-Line Fuse Holder
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Assembled AC Adapter on Appliance Module
The picture below shows how to wire the components together (for demonstration purposes as short wiring lengths are used). Insure proper crimp/solder terminations are used and to shrink wrap or tape the connections. Since the adapter is AC there is no need to worry about polarity when wiring the system together. You can use 18 to 20 gauge wiring between the valve and adapter/in-line fuse. If you are burying the cable you may want to purchase a jacketed cable for this purpose. Orbit recommends 20 gauge wiring for distances less then 800 feet and 18 gauge wiring for distances greater than 800 feet.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Wiring Demonstration
Once the system is assembled, wired, and mounted to the faucet it can be checked for leaks and proper operation. Note that there is a manual switch just below the solenoid. Turn this switch down to its OFF position. Now turn the faucet on and check the valve inlet for leaks (note that water may first flow through the valve, but then shut off after a few seconds). Turn the control power to the valve ON and check for proper operation and leaks at the outlet. Turn the control power off (note that the valve will take a few seconds to turn off) and insure the system does properly stop the water flow.
Fellow Cocooner roussell provided the pictures below of his implementation (though he used a different adapter) of the above methodology for our membership.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Relay/Contact Closure Control:
You can control the output of the 24 VAC adapter rather than the input (120 VAC plugged end) that we controlled via an appliance module above. This method may be chosen if your home automation system includes the capability to switch relays (contact closure) such as an Elk or Ocelot or even stand alone relay control boards that can be controlled via a serial/USB port.
Since the Elk M1 Gold is a popular controller with our membership it will be used as an example system of how to connect the AC adapters 24 VAC output to relays in order to control the Orbit valve.
The Elk M1 can use an expansion module that has a bank of relays, or individual relays can be purchased that can be controlled with the on-board voltage outputs. The schematic below shows how to wire individual relays to these on-board Elk voltage outputs. If using an Elk expansion module for relay control, the wiring to the main board's voltage outputs is not necessary. Also note that the 24 VAC adapter will plug directly into an outlet rather than an appliance module, since we are now switching the output of the adapter rather than its input.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Relay Control Schematic
Operation Notes:
Remember that your control reliability is only as good as your home automation system. This is important as you are controlling a water source that, if left on for a long period of time, could cause some annoyance and discomfort!
When sending an OFF command, you may want to send it a few times. If the appliance module/relay control can be polled you may want to check that the off command was sent and implemented properly.
Also, you may have noticed that the assembly sticks out from the outdoor faucet a bit. Be carefull that the unit does not get bumped as to cause damage to the faucet/plumbing itself (again reference the annoyance and discomfort notes above).
If you want multiple valves/systems you can purchase hose adapters so more than one of these assemblies can be attached to your faucet. Watch out for overall weight, clearances between valves, and again, bumping the assembly. If you want to turn more than one valve on at a time you may want to increase the fuse size to 0.75 amps. This particular valve will draw a little under 0.2 amps of current (refer to picture showing current measurement (in milliamps) below).
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Measuring Valve Current Draw
This valve assembly should be brought indoors in the winter as to not expose it to freezing temperatures. Also, cold water should only be used with this system.
Closing Remarks:
Controlling a sprinkler valve with the two methods above is more for a temporary seasonal setup rather than a permanent one. For systems that require a full time sprinkler system (i.e. in-ground) there are more robust controllers available to the home automation enthusiast.
WGL Designs makes such controllers. One nice feature included with these controllers is that you can have an "OFF" command sent from the unit itself after a given amount of time (that is entered by the user). This will insure that the OFF command will be sent to the valves in case of a failure with the home automation system controls.
Please reference THIS How-To for more information on how to control sprinkler systems on a full time basis.
(Using a Standard Sprinkler Control Valve)
by BraveSirRobbin
This How-To was created due to the request of Cocooners (from THIS thread) wanting to know how to create an automated watering system that can be controlled by common home automation systems and attached to an outdoor watering faucet.
First our standard disclamair:
CocoonTech.com and its staff are NOT responsible for any injury or property damage resulting from anyone using this How-To guide or any associatied pictures or links.
Description:
The information below will show you the parts needed for this project as well as how to properly assemble and implement them so you can automate a lawn sprinkler, plant watering system, etc...
Be aware that there are many types of valves with many different plumbing configurations. The parts chosen for this How-To were purchased at a Lowes Hardware store in Las Vegas, but, links were found so equivalent parts can be ordered by anyone via the Internet. The only exception is for the three plumbing adapters (links could not be found), but hopefully their descriptions are detailed enough so they can easily be purchased at your local hardware store.
Parts Listing:
3/4 inch Orbit Sprinkler Valve Model 57100
Orbit 24 VAC Transformer Model 57040
In-Line Fuse Holder
1/2 amp Slow Blow Fuse (For Operating One Valve).
Appliance Module (X-10 Shown Here)
One Roll of Teflon Tape
Plus the following three pipe/plumbing adapters:
3/4 Inch Hex Nipple (Watts A-875)
Swivel Hose Adapter 3/4 inch FH x 3/4 inch FIP (Watts A-661)
Tapped Hose Adapter 3/4 inch MH x 3/4 inch MIP x tapped FIP (Watts A-665)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Orbit Brand Valve and AC Adapter
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Orbit Brand Valve and AC Adapter
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Orbit Brand Valve and AC Adapter
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Plumbing Adapters/Fittings
Assembly:
Assemble the three adapters onto the valve as shown in the picture below. Note that the valve has arrows in the inlet and outlet which indicate water flow direction. Please be sure to follow this flow direction so the female hose adapter is in the inlet and the male in the outlet of the valve. Also be sure to use Teflon tape on all of the adapters during assembly. Tighten all adapters securely (do not over tighten as the plastic in the valve's case will crack).
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Water Flow Arrow on Valve
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Assembled Adapters on Valve
This valve assembly can now be mounted on an outdoor faucet as shown below. Note that this particular faucet has an anti-siphon valve attached (included with the faucet). Note that local codes/safety ordinances may require an anti-siphon valve so no outdoor water can backflow into your home's drinking supply.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Assembled Unit on Outdoor Faucet
The valve requires 24 Volts AC for it's operation. Orbit provides an adapter for this purpose. Any UL approved 24 VAC class 2 transformer/adapter can be used as long as it can supply approximately 0.5 amps of current. This particular adapter can provide 0.75 amps.
This adapter can be controlled via an appliance module or relay contact/closure of your choosing. An X-10 appliance module is used in this first example. Note that you may want to use electrical tape to secure the adapter to the appliance module due to its weight. A short extension cord may also be used instead.
It is good practice to fuse the output of the 24 VAC adapter. You can use an in-line fuse holder with a 0.5 amp fuse (for powering one valve assembly). Make sure you wire the in-line fuse adapter near the adapter itself.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Appliance Module and In-Line Fuse Holder
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Assembled AC Adapter on Appliance Module
The picture below shows how to wire the components together (for demonstration purposes as short wiring lengths are used). Insure proper crimp/solder terminations are used and to shrink wrap or tape the connections. Since the adapter is AC there is no need to worry about polarity when wiring the system together. You can use 18 to 20 gauge wiring between the valve and adapter/in-line fuse. If you are burying the cable you may want to purchase a jacketed cable for this purpose. Orbit recommends 20 gauge wiring for distances less then 800 feet and 18 gauge wiring for distances greater than 800 feet.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Wiring Demonstration
Once the system is assembled, wired, and mounted to the faucet it can be checked for leaks and proper operation. Note that there is a manual switch just below the solenoid. Turn this switch down to its OFF position. Now turn the faucet on and check the valve inlet for leaks (note that water may first flow through the valve, but then shut off after a few seconds). Turn the control power to the valve ON and check for proper operation and leaks at the outlet. Turn the control power off (note that the valve will take a few seconds to turn off) and insure the system does properly stop the water flow.
Fellow Cocooner roussell provided the pictures below of his implementation (though he used a different adapter) of the above methodology for our membership.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Relay/Contact Closure Control:
You can control the output of the 24 VAC adapter rather than the input (120 VAC plugged end) that we controlled via an appliance module above. This method may be chosen if your home automation system includes the capability to switch relays (contact closure) such as an Elk or Ocelot or even stand alone relay control boards that can be controlled via a serial/USB port.
Since the Elk M1 Gold is a popular controller with our membership it will be used as an example system of how to connect the AC adapters 24 VAC output to relays in order to control the Orbit valve.
The Elk M1 can use an expansion module that has a bank of relays, or individual relays can be purchased that can be controlled with the on-board voltage outputs. The schematic below shows how to wire individual relays to these on-board Elk voltage outputs. If using an Elk expansion module for relay control, the wiring to the main board's voltage outputs is not necessary. Also note that the 24 VAC adapter will plug directly into an outlet rather than an appliance module, since we are now switching the output of the adapter rather than its input.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Relay Control Schematic
Operation Notes:
Remember that your control reliability is only as good as your home automation system. This is important as you are controlling a water source that, if left on for a long period of time, could cause some annoyance and discomfort!
When sending an OFF command, you may want to send it a few times. If the appliance module/relay control can be polled you may want to check that the off command was sent and implemented properly.
Also, you may have noticed that the assembly sticks out from the outdoor faucet a bit. Be carefull that the unit does not get bumped as to cause damage to the faucet/plumbing itself (again reference the annoyance and discomfort notes above).
If you want multiple valves/systems you can purchase hose adapters so more than one of these assemblies can be attached to your faucet. Watch out for overall weight, clearances between valves, and again, bumping the assembly. If you want to turn more than one valve on at a time you may want to increase the fuse size to 0.75 amps. This particular valve will draw a little under 0.2 amps of current (refer to picture showing current measurement (in milliamps) below).
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Measuring Valve Current Draw
This valve assembly should be brought indoors in the winter as to not expose it to freezing temperatures. Also, cold water should only be used with this system.
Closing Remarks:
Controlling a sprinkler valve with the two methods above is more for a temporary seasonal setup rather than a permanent one. For systems that require a full time sprinkler system (i.e. in-ground) there are more robust controllers available to the home automation enthusiast.
WGL Designs makes such controllers. One nice feature included with these controllers is that you can have an "OFF" command sent from the unit itself after a given amount of time (that is entered by the user). This will insure that the OFF command will be sent to the valves in case of a failure with the home automation system controls.
Please reference THIS How-To for more information on how to control sprinkler systems on a full time basis.
