How to plumb an Elk WSV?

[rickm15752]

Hi everyone,
I just purchased a Elk WSV and noticed it has 1" NPT female threads. I'm no stranger to plumbing and I can make it work with my plumbing skills. However, I'm curious how others have installed these. If you have photos of the valve plumbed into your system, and you don't mind posting them, please do. This will be going onto a 1" copper supply line.

Thanks.

 

[personalt]

If you can, you dont want to solder close to the value as you dont want to heat it up. The exception would be if you can unscrew the guts from the valve first.

This is what I would do...
1. cut out a section of pipe, maybe 2-3' if possible.
2. solder on a 1" npt male adapter.
3. tape the npt thread and spin the valve on.

To connect it back together on the other side you could either use a coupler or a union. the benefit of a union is that if you are not a pro and one of your joints leak you can spin it open to drain out the water allowing you to fix your work without having to cut things out.

Union
4. at the other side of where you cut solder in half of the union.
5. on the remain piece you solder on a male npt thread and then cut it to fit properly allowing excess so that when you spin into the valve you don't end up short. The trick here is you need a little play in the pipes so that you can cut it just right after you screwed in the male npt thread. You will need to have enough play to pull the pipe to the side since you will need to make it a little long so that you dont end up short after you spin down the mail npt.

Coupler
4. Get either a no-stop coupler(there are ones with out the little dent so you can slide up the pipe) or you can get a repair coupler which is basicly like a no-hub coupler only a little longer. The repair coupler will be a little easier if you cant cut the pipe a little long and slide it in after you spin down the npt thread. The repair coupler will allow you to cut it so it just fits before spinning the male npt connection into the valve. The repair coupler can make up the gap from when you spin down the male ntp fitting.
5.slide coupler up the pipe
6. solder npt male fitting on to section of pipe that will fill the gap. Pipe will need to be a little long if using a regular coupler since you need to allow for the amount you spin in to the value
7. Spin in section of pipe.
7. mark pipe so you can center coupler(repair or regular)
8. slider coupler back down and solder... make sure you have cleaned the old pipe well first..


repair coupler
http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-332-copper-unions-and-couplings/copper-repair-coupling-613044.aspx

union
http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-332-copper-unions-and-couplings/1-1-4-cxc-union-polished-brass-cast--615869.aspx

nostop coupler
http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-332-copper-unions-and-couplings/no-stop-copper-coupling-186734.aspx

 

[rickm15752]

Hi personalt,
I just returned from the hardware store and found your reply. I had the same idea of the union, so earlier today I picked up two male adapters, 1 copper union and a 12" section of 1" pipe. I like the union method because I want the ability to tighten the connection if I spot a leak.

I know what you mean about soldering too close to the valve. With the methods you described that wouldn't happen.
I'm considering returning the copper union for a cast union. They're more expensive, but I think they're stronger.
Thanks for your help!
Rick

 

[tmbrown97]

Heh - I learned the hard way - don't bother with propane to solder that either - with 1" you need MAP gas... I went from owning no torches to owning two in an afternoon after dropping a tree I was cutting down right on top of my main - then realizing propane can't heat something that big! It was a holiday weekend too so I wasn't about to call a plumber...

 

[rickm15752]

Thanks. I have an acetylene tank and torch that I use for sweating copper fittings. Acetylene burns hotter than propane and I have a length of hose attached for soldering in tight spots.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I'm considering returning the copper union for a cast union. They're more expensive, but I think they're stronger.

Watch yourself on this to make sure you aren't getting into a dis-similar metal problem.

 

[apostolakisl]

I sweated this together with a propane torch. Just be sure to polish the copper up with emmory cloth, use flux, and melt in the solder from the opposite side as you apply the torch, ensuring that you have heated it sufficiently. It is best to sweat together as many pieces on the bench before going to the house fittings. I didn't use a union but it probably isn't a bad idea. If you ever need to replace it, life will be easier. Use all copper, there is no point in using anything else, copper is plenty strong for this.

An oxy acetylene torch is very hot, you can ruin the copper if you aren't careful. MAP gas is probably the best, but I had propane so I used it, and it worked.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/828/dscf0983b.jpg/

 

[electron]

Watch yourself on this to make sure you aren't getting into a dis-similar metal problem.

Definitely pay attention to BSR's statement, my plumber made this mistake, and I didn't know better.

 

[apostolakisl]

If you have a straight section of copper that is already one inch, this will not be hard. If you look at my photo you will notice I had 1.25 inch and I had to turn it out and back in. I had to use lots of fittings to go from 1.25 to 1, back to 1.25, plus all the elbows.

If you have a straight piece that you are just going to cut a few inches out and put the valve in the middle, it will be easier. You only need an IPT to 1 in copper fitting to sweat on the one side. Take the few inches of pipe you cut out, sweat another 1 in IPT fitting on the little stub of copper. Sweat the other end of that to one half of your union, trim the piece of pipe still attached to the house to the correct length (so the valve and union all fit), and sweat on the other half of the copper union, then screw it all together.

If you use a union and you have a bad sweat joint, you just need to unscrew it all, drain the water, and resweat the bad fitting. Otherwise, you will have a hell of a time getting the water out of the pipe. Remember, polish the metal to a bright shine with your emory cloth, use flux, and sweat from the opposite side as the torch. Also don't forget the teflon tape for the threads at the valve.

I just bought a 1 in copper union 3 weeks for another repair (friends at my church decided to dig a trench at the church and ripped open a 1 inch yard line). It only cost $11 at my local hardware store. I would spend the extra $9 to use it instead of a coupler.