Intermatic 2 Switch/3 Way Application

[DieselvRR]

I have an outdoor lamp that is currently controlled by two 3-way switches. I was reviewing the wiring diagram of the Intermatic HA20C dimmer and had a quetion about the "additional wire" that is in the diagram.

Can someone explain the "additional wire" 18 gauge min wire? Am I basically unhooking the hot from the 3-way switch and connecting it to the load and blue wire of the dimmer?

Please advise.

 

[DieselvRR]

I have an outdoor lamp that is currently controlled by two 3-way switches. I was reviewing the wiring diagram of the Intermatic HA20C dimmer and had a quetion about the "additional wire" that is in the diagram.

Can someone explain the "additional wire" 18 gauge min wire? Am I basically unhooking the hot from the 3-way switch and connecting it to the load and blue wire of the dimmer?

Please advise.

Anyone?

 

[PatA]

DieselvvRR,

In that diagram, you can see that the HOT wire is only connected to the black wire of the HA20.
The Blue wire of the HA20 (connected to the 18ga. or larger wire) controls the incandescent load (bulb).
The Red wire is a sensing wire that detects if the wall switch that is not the HA20 is opened or closed. You may think of it as a feedback loop if you prefer.
In the instruction sheet, the wiring diagram that was directly above the one that you had attached is essentially the same, except for the fact that the diagram above shows a single pole switch in place of the 3-way switch. You can save $$ by using a single pole switch in this setup, but if you have an existing 3-way switch, you may still use it as shown in the diagram you had attached.

 

[DieselvRR]

DieselvvRR,

In that diagram, you can see that the HOT wire is only connected to the black wire of the HA20.
The Blue wire of the HA20 (connected to the 18ga. or larger wire) controls the incandescent load (bulb).
The Red wire is a sensing wire that detects if the wall switch that is not the HA20 is opened or closed. You may think of it as a feedback loop if you prefer.
In the instruction sheet, the wiring diagram that was directly above the one that you had attached is essentially the same, except for the fact that the diagram above shows a single pole switch in place of the 3-way switch. You can save $$ by using a single pole switch in this setup, but if you have an existing 3-way switch, you may still use it as shown in the diagram you had attached.

Thanks for the reply, does this mean I have to run a additional wire through the wall to hook up the HA20?

 

[Red0x]

DieselvvRR,

In that diagram, you can see that the HOT wire is only connected to the black wire of the HA20.
The Blue wire of the HA20 (connected to the 18ga. or larger wire) controls the incandescent load (bulb).
The Red wire is a sensing wire that detects if the wall switch that is not the HA20 is opened or closed. You may think of it as a feedback loop if you prefer.
In the instruction sheet, the wiring diagram that was directly above the one that you had attached is essentially the same, except for the fact that the diagram above shows a single pole switch in place of the 3-way switch. You can save $$ by using a single pole switch in this setup, but if you have an existing 3-way switch, you may still use it as shown in the diagram you had attached.

Thanks for the reply, does this mean I have to run a additional wire through the wall to hook up the HA20?

The 18 gauge wire jumpers the mechanical switch. The jumper ensures that the electronic switch is always powered regardless of the position of the mechanical 3 way switch, but the electronic switch can still sense the position of the mechanical switch. You should be able to add the jumper in your box without having to run any new wires in or out of the box.

 

[DieselvRR]

DieselvvRR,

In that diagram, you can see that the HOT wire is only connected to the black wire of the HA20.
The Blue wire of the HA20 (connected to the 18ga. or larger wire) controls the incandescent load (bulb).
The Red wire is a sensing wire that detects if the wall switch that is not the HA20 is opened or closed. You may think of it as a feedback loop if you prefer.
In the instruction sheet, the wiring diagram that was directly above the one that you had attached is essentially the same, except for the fact that the diagram above shows a single pole switch in place of the 3-way switch. You can save $$ by using a single pole switch in this setup, but if you have an existing 3-way switch, you may still use it as shown in the diagram you had attached.

Thanks for the reply, does this mean I have to run a additional wire through the wall to hook up the HA20?

The 18 gauge wire jumpers the mechanical switch. The jumper ensures that the electronic switch is always powered regardless of the position of the mechanical 3 way switch, but the electronic switch can still sense the position of the mechanical switch. You should be able to add the jumper in your box without having to run any new wires in or out of the box.

ok, thanks a lot for your replies. I'll let you know how it goes.