Kwikset 910 Z-Wave Lock without Keypad

Douglas

Member
Has anyone integrated a Kwikset 910 Z-Wave lock without the outdoor keypad into their OP2?
 
In the past, I have successfully integrated the 910 Z-wave with a keypad into a system, now I am trying to add the non-keypad lock version.
 
I have the VRC0P connected directly to a PC, so I can see the data coming from the lock, and there is a data difference between the keypad and the non-keypad versions.  Both the keypad and non-keypad versions of the lock transmit the same first line of serial data whenever there is a manual lock position change.  However, the keypad version transmits a second line of serial data (which indicates the lock status and how the lock was told to change position), whereas the non-keypad version sends no second line of data.
 
Has anyone else experienced this?  And if so, what was the fix?
 
[the only 2 answers I can think of are lock z-wave board firmware is wrong (which says 3.37 on it) or the 910 without the keypad simply doesn't send out the second line of serial data, rendering it useless for the OP2]
 
Just as a side note, even if this wasn't for an OP2 integration (lets say it was a serial data feed to a Raspberry Pi) - how would the status of the lock be known?  Why would the lock only transmit the same data for both the unlock and lock positions?  It doesn't make sense why someone would have only one common data word coming from the lock for both positions.
 
Thanks!
Doug
 
I’ve never seen a 910 without a keypad. Can you post a product link?

How do you locally actuate the lock mechanism?
 
Cobra - this is the standard Z-wave / motorized deadbolt on the inside of the door, and a simple, traditional round deadbolt lock on the outside.  From Amazon:
 
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-Signature-Traditional-Electronic-Deadbolt/dp/B013KZRTTG
 
The only way to actuate this lock at the door is by the thumb-turn on the inside or a key on the outside.  My use of the lock is remote lock/unlock control, remote status monitoring (if manually locked or unlocked) - without outside keypad access.  The only way to access the door from outside is by using a key, phone app or OP2 programming code.
 
As for my initial issue, I have corrected it by downloading the latest version of Vizia RF+ Installer software - version 1.1.5.2.  I then re-built the Z-wave network (excluded all devices, included locks, then included VRC0P) without issue, and I now get the correct response from the lock.  I also re-loaded the firmware in the VRC0P (before I updated the Vizia software) but that didn't make a difference.  
 
Some notable items that may help others:
 
1. You need the Z-wave door lock, a VRC0P serial interface - that says "RF+ 3" on the back - and a VRUSB Installer tool.  You also need the Vizia RF+ Installer software.
 
2. Install the door lock on the door first.  It's tempting to do this entire setup in a controlled environment and then install the lock on the door, and add the VRC0P to the OP2.  I think it's important to install the lock and let it "learn the door" before adding the lock to the Z-wave network.  With the lock installed and the door closed, remove the battery pack.  Then press and hold the lock's "program button" and re-insert the battery pack.  Keep the button held for 5-7 seconds after the battery pack is inserted.  You will hear/see the lock "learn" the door - like which way the lock should turn for lock/unlock commands.  Make sure all this is working and you have a functional door lock first!  Monitoring and control is really a secondary function!
 
3. It is a good idea to have a PC (DB9) to VRC0P (RJ11) cable.  Two reasons: 1. firmware updating the VRC0P,and  2. initial testing / troubleshooting.
 
4. Use either Putty or Hyperterminal to set up a serial connection to the VRC0P.  9600 baud, 8,N,1.  In the ASCII setup, check off "Send line ends with line feeds" and "Echo typed characters locally".  In my case, my PC has a hard serial port, so I'm not using any USB or ethernet to serial converter.
 
5. Connect the VRC0P to the PC before you plug the VRC0P into AC power.  When you first plug it in, it will tell you what version it is running!  I didn't know this, I only found out after I had already "updated" my VRC0P firmware.  When I plug mine in now, it tells me:     $Leviton(C) 2008 V2.36S/Z-Wave 3.42      If you have an older version number, I recommend updating to this version (it works for both my older Kwikset Z-wave and newer Kwikset Z-wave locks).
 
6. Plug the VRUSB into the PC before you start the Vizia RF+ Installer software.  I am now using Vizia RF+ Installer software version 1.1.5.2.  For my use, I started a "new network" in the software.  (Note: if the software doesn't "see" the USB stick, it will tell you so in the bottom status bar, left corner.)
 
7. I've found that brand new locks need to be "excluded" from the Z-wave network before you can add them. (Perhaps they are added to a test network when first manufactured and never excluded from that network?)  This was a lesson I learned early on when fighting to add brand new locks to the Z-wave network.  Click on the "Exclude Device" button in the software tool bar, then "OK" in the pop-up box - and then immediately press the "A" button inside the lock.  Basically you need to be within an arms reach of both the PC and the door lock.
 
8. Add the locks to the network before the serial interface (VRC0P).  Same process as above, click the "Include Device" button in the software tool bar, then "OK" in the pop-up box - and then immediately press the "A" button inside the lock.
 
9. Add the VRC0P serial interface to the Z-wave network last.  To add the device, first long press the LED "button" (the clear "light pipe" the LED shines through is also a button!) on the VRC0P until the LED flashes orange, then "Include Device" in the software tool bar, the "OK" in the pop-up box.  When the VRC0P is included in the network, you will see the orange flashing light return to green flashing.
 
10. After everything is added to the network, don't forget to "associate" the locks to the serial interface (diagnostics -> RS232 Setup).  Neither the locks nor the serial interface need to be in any special mode to do this, just leave them in their "normal" modes.
 
11. Hopefully your Z-wave network is now set up - but let's find out.  With the VRC0P connected to your PC, again run Putty / Hyperterminal, 9600 baud, 8-N-1, same settings as above.  Manually unlock and lock the lock.  You should see serial data on the screen of the PC.  If not, something is wrong already, either in the Z-wave network, software version or firmware versions.  In my case, I now see:
 
After manual unlock:
 
<N003:152,064 
<n003:000,113,005,021,001
 
After manual lock:
 
<N003:152,064
<n003:000,113,005,022,001
 
So I know my lock at Z-wave node 3 is working, I assume the 021 code tells the receiving equipment it's unlocked, the 022 code means locked.
 
12. If everything is working in step 11, you can send lock/unlock commands from the PC to the lock.  In my case:
 
For remote unlock, type:
 
>N003SS98,1,0   -and press enter;  you have to type the initial ">" character!
 
The lock "unlocks" itself and responds:
 
<E000
<N003:152,128,131,036,164,002,082,007,192
<X000
<N003:152,064
<n003:000,113,005,025,001
 
For remote lock:
 
>N003SS98,1,255      -and press enter;  you have to type the initial ">" character!
 
The lock "locks" itself and responds:
 
<E000
<N003:152,128,102,046,199,033,234,182,056
<X000
<N003:152,064
<n003:000,113,005,024,001
 
If you got this far, you are doing great!  You are ready to add the Z-wave network to the OP2.
 
13. In my case, I now moved the VRC0P to an outlet near my OP2 panel.  I re-ran the tests above and my system failed!  I moved the VRC0P to an outlet on my UPS, ran the tests again, and it worked.  I moved it back and forth a few times to make sure what I was seeing was real, and it was.  I'm not sure what is making AC power line noise on the outlets near my OP2, but my UPB PIM is right there (not on the UPS, and it looks like the OP2 power supply isn't on the UPS either, both of which I will be changing!), maybe it's the LED ceiling light.  Either way, I'm leaving the VRC0P on the UPS - and it clearly needs clean AC power!
 
14. Program the OP2 panel to have a serial port set as "Z-Wave", add the locks under the "Access Control" portion of the PC Access software.  You will need to know your node numbers from the Vizia RF+ software.
 
15. Connect the OP2 Z-wave serial port to your PC serial port.  (Note: this is NOT the same cable as the VRC0P cable.)  Use the same Putty / Hyperterminal settings as the Putty / Hyperterminal used above for the VRC0P (makes sense since the two boxes have to talk to each other!).
 
16. In PC Access, go to the Status/Control panel, and select "Access Control" at the bottom.  You will see the locks you added in step 14.  Double-click the lock, pick a command to send (lock/unlock) and send it.  If everything is correct, you will see the serial data on your PC.  In my case, I see:
 
For lock:
 
>N003SS98,1,255    - then a 5 second pause, then:
>AB                          - then a 30 second pause, then:
>N003SS98,1,255    - then a 5 second pause, then:
>AB                          - then a 30 second pause, then:
N003SS98,1,255    - then a 5 second pause, then:
>AB                          - then a 60 second pause, then:
N003SS98,2    - then a 5 second pause, then:
>AB                          - then a 30 second pause, then:
N003SS98,2    - then a 5 second pause, then:
>AB                          - then a 30 second pause, then:
N003SS98,2    - then a 5 second pause, then:
>AB
 
What I think: since these commands are going to a PC, the OP2 isn't getting the feedback from the lock; so it repeats the command 3 times.  I believe the second set of commands is the OP2 looking for the status of the lock - but I could be totally wrong here!  I think the ">AB" command is sent to the VRC0P to tell it to "abort" the previous command before sending another command.
 
17. At this point, you have a functioning Lock-PC system, and a functioning OP2-PC system.  It makes sense to plug the two systems together and they should just work.  The cable between the two systems is custom!  A four pin RJ11 is used at each end, flip pins 1 and 4, pin 3 is straight through.  For my pin numbering, hold the cable in your hand, connector facing away; connector plastic lock tab down, gold pins facing up at you.  Pin 1 is on your left, pin 4 on the far right.  The cable is reversible, it doesn't matter which end you plug into what.
 
##
 
Now, all this being said, I have intermittent operation between the lock and the OP2.  Sometimes it works one way but the status doesn't change, sometimes the status changes when the lock is manually operated.  In my case, the OP2 closet is directly under the mud room door lock.  My guess is that I have 15 feet between the lock and the VRC0P.  I know the VRC0P (running in that location) is good because of my direct-PC tests work every time.  I've made 2 different cables, same intermittent OP2 results.  Next I'm going to ohm out the cables to make sure they are good.  I'm thinking I may need to use a shielded cable, like the RF from the VRC0P transmitting next to the wire is interfering with the RS232 data signal in the wire.  Or maybe one of those ferrite torroid chokes to loop the interface wire around.
 
In my experience, I never cared for the Z-wave wireless locks.  I give the lock a 100% on receiving commands from the OP2 and acting correctly.  I give it 90% on sending lock position status back to the OP2.  And it's that last 10% that will always get you - is it really locked or not?
 
Sorry this was so long, I hope it helps someone else.
Doug
 
Douglas said:
In my experience, I never cared for the Z-wave wireless locks.  I give the lock a 100% on receiving commands from the OP2 and acting correctly.  I give it 90% on sending lock position status back to the OP2.  And it's that last 10% that will always get you - is it really locked or not?
 
You can check where data loss happens by connecting an rs-232 tap to intercept communication between HAI and vrc0p.  I had a similar problem with Elk and thermostats, but in this case commands were lost rather than status. It happenned probably once a month.  I monitored communication long enough to capture data loss and was surprised to discover that it was Elk itself rather than vrc0p or zwave ntework that lost the command.
 
Great detailed write-up!

I’ve seen some intermittent issues with a similar Z-Wave lock. Do you have any other Z-Wave devices to act as a repeater between your lock and OP2? While 15 ft isn’t a long distance, it may be enough to cause issues. Mine is within a few feet of my VRCOP and works flawlessly (when everything is in order.) That includes status updates, still using Haiku here, and commanded remote lock/unlock.

When I have seen failure of status reporting, I believe it was always a VRCOP issue. A few people have reported issues with the VRCOP being power sensitive. I don’t really know the cause, but mine would get flaky after a month or two of continuous use. After 2 or 3 times of it starting to give poor status reports I did some reading about issues here on the forum. The short answer was to add a filtering UPS before the VRCOP in the utility cabinet. I wanted one for other equipment there as well. The status report issues stopped happening completely.

I suppose it could have also been a noise issue, like you propose, as I put both the VRCOP and the automation panel on the filtered UPS.

The only other issue I see is that my lock is the closest device to my VRCOP in the Z-Wave network. If it runs out of battery, my response time for any Z-Wave command increases to 10’s of seconds or more for other devices. Now that I know this, I know it’s time to swap the lock batteries when I see the network not responding...
 
Thanks for all the responses!  I always appreciate input from others, it's good to have a different point of view.
 
vc1234, I considered some kind of data monitor between the devices, I was considering tapping into the data lines between the devices, but I know that's easier said than done.  I do recall seeing a Russound serial port splitter box, 1 port in, 2 ports out, but I'd have to order one (if they even still make it).
 
cobra, I don't have any other devices in the Z-wave network.  Here all switches are UPB, it's always been a very reliable technology for me.  I do have a z-wave repeater left over from a different project, but it's about 2 years old - and I'm not sure if it's a secure capable repeater.  I read somewhere that you need a secure capable repeater for the door locks.  Great observation on the low battery issue, I'm sure you're not the only person who (unknowingly) sees this issue.
 
As for me, I ohmed out both of my cables, and the pinouts were fine.  Remembering that there are data LED's near the serial ports in the OP2, I tried plugging in the VRC0P while watching the lights - and I did see a little flash, so I know the OP2 is receiving the VRC0P power-up version information.  So I was convinced my cable was good.  My next step was to remove the battery/programming cover from the back of the lock and test it again - and it worked reliably!  I knew it was some kind of signal problem, and I was thinking I had a bad transmitter or receiver - but in both devices?  What are the chances?
 
Back down to the AV closet, I found an outlet in the ceiling of the basement AV room, and plugged the VRC0P into that.  Instead of the lock and VRC0P being about 15 feet apart, now they are only about 6-7 feet apart.  I put the cover back on the lock, and my operation is working reliably.  I can't believe that one slate-tiled floor (with radiant heat) can be such a signal block, but I guess it can.  I even looked in the AV ceiling to see if there was some kind of metal reflecting the radiant heat back up toward the mud room, but there's nothing I can see except plywood sub-floor.
 
So I'm considering the case closed, my initial problem (only getting one line of serial data) was solved by a software update, my 'not working' issue was solved by decreasing the range between the VRC0P and the lock.  I'm hoping for the same great reliability as cobra!
 
My next steps are to set one of the key fobs to unlock the door and set the 5.7e in the mud room to wake-up and show the lock status on the screen.  I like to use a bright yellow screen to show someone looking through the glass door that the OP2 has received the unlock command but the lock is still locked, and a bright green screen to show the door is unlocked.  Then when you open the door, the zone trip makes the 5.7e jump to the home screen.  Altogether, it's a great setup, press the fob as you approach the door, see the 5.7e, and you know when it's ok to open the door (if you didn't hear the lock unlock).
 
Thanks to all for the input,
Doug
 
Douglas said:
I was considering tapping into the data lines between the devices, but I know that's easier said than done.  I do recall seeing a Russound serial port splitter box, 1 port in, 2 ports out, but I'd have to order one (if they even still make it).
 
You can make one yourself (I did) or buy a ready made one:
 
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1&ei=aLWWWsuzCsTEsAW-yb5g&q=rs232+tap&oq=rs232+tap&gs_l=psy-ab.12..0i71k1l8.0.0.0.13675.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1c..64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.UWZHvAfXPbI
 
I never looked at a schematic for the serial port tap, it's a very simple circuit.  I'll have to make myself a cable with a toggle switch so I can pick which side I want to monitor (or both).  I can't believe they get $189!
 
As a side note, I've used a fair amount of B&B Electronics serial gear, and I do recommend all of it.  Serial to ethernet adapters, 1-to-4 serial port remote switchers, ADAM remote I/O boxes, even serial to parallel port converters.  Always been good equipment.  I definitely give B&B a thumbs up.
 
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