LED lighting and Low Voltage Distribution

[pete_c]

Thanks Work2Play.

The new setup is still just testing before the "kitchen" stuff is done. It'll be first practice in the garage for final use in the kitchen.

I have "Kitchen" cabinets in two areas configured in the garage; redone last last year. I also redid a lot of the electric (adding conduit and more outlets).

I am currently using 120VAC LED lighting in the garage; never liked the "color" though; so removing it.

 

[pete_c]

Noticed too that the "warm" outdoor LED 12V LED lighting prices has dropped some. My test zone was using the MR11/12 SMD lights in small mushroom type landscaping lighting (with glass up).and bollards. I am also trying some replacements for small G4 10 watt Halogen that I was using. I utilize numerous "rock" lights which had 20 watt MR11's which I am switching (and have a few in place) to 1 watt Cree style MR11's. (4 already in place for over a year running fine).

This is taking care of two more zones such that I will have 3 out of maybe around 10 now switched to LED lighting.

 

[tmbrown97]

I switched my landscape lights to LED at the last house after I got sick of replacing bulbs every few weeks... they weren't as bright if you compared side-by-side, but after I replaced them all they worked well enough to get by - and 3 years later, they're still there (with new homeowner). I can only use warm-white - I hate the look of cold-white in fluorescents and LED's for exterior lighting (same reason I still use regular christmas lights and not LED's).

 

[pete_c]

Yes; I tried the Christmas LED's a couple of years back and really didn't like them; so still using the incandescent C9's mostly. I did switch from using X10 to Z-Wave for the outdoor / indoor Christmas lighting last year (first time switching out of X10).

I just ordered 4 different types of LED's for a few of zones to see how they work. They are all "warm" colors and utilize the multiple "smds" (5-24). I also ordered a few of the MR11/MR16's single cree (1Watt) / triple cree (3Watt) lamps.

Hoping to get these in before snow here in midwest.

 

[2blackbelt]

I switched my landscape lights to LED at the last house after I got sick of replacing bulbs every few weeks... they weren't as bright if you compared side-by-side, but after I replaced them all they worked well enough to get by - and 3 years later, they're still there (with new homeowner). I can only use warm-white - I hate the look of cold-white in fluorescents and LED's for exterior lighting (same reason I still use regular christmas lights and not LED's).

Did you replace the fixture or just the bulb? I have four LED landscape fixtures and it is a bright white....kinda harsh but lights up good. Wondering how you switched to a Soft White?

 

[pete_c]

The newer mini MR11's with multiple smds are sold as white white of soft white from what I can see and purchased .

I am reading lately about well built fixtures and poorly constructed ones for conversion to LEDs.

 

[tmbrown97]

Did you replace the fixture or just the bulb? I have four LED landscape fixtures and it is a bright white....kinda harsh but lights up good. Wondering how you switched to a Soft White?

I just replaced the malibu wedge-style bulbs with LED's - I believe they were from superbrightleds.com - I've used them a couple of times - previously it was for staircase lights (I usually go LED when power consumption is too high, or when I'm just plain sick of replacing burnt out bulbs).

 

[tmbrown97]

For the OP, one thing I just noticed... those strips that are around $10 - those are normal density. The ones I have a few extra rolls of are double-density grade-a - so 600-lights per strip (also means you can cut every 1.5" or so - half the distance). That makes a lot more sense why the price is so different. Figure double-density almost doubles price; and the difference between grade C and grade A is more than double - so that's how a $10 strip suddenly becomes $50+.

 

[hult]

The topic title includes "Low Voltage Distribution" but I didn't see any reference to ( perhaps I missed it) the fact that electrical codes ( NEC, National Electrical Code; CEC, Canadian Electrical Code) pertain.

Be forewarned that just because the wiring is 'low voltage' does not mean it is exempt from the electrical code.

In particular, power sources need to be listed for the purpose they are put to, and over-current devices ( fuses/breakers) may be mandatory depending in part on power-limit class ( NEC Classes 1, 2, 3) and distribution method. Conductor and cable protection methods apply.

Some references:

Complete lighting systems 30 volts or less. NEC 70 article 411:
http://q-tran.square...411%20chart.pdf
Note that this pertains to complete, listed systems. Hacking into it (eg rewiring) will/would very likely be viewed as code violation by the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ).

Code rules for low-voltage lighting
http://ecmweb.com/ma...les_lowvoltage/

Understanding NEC circuit classifications
http://ecmweb.com/ma...ng_nec_circuit/

Defining low voltage circuits:
http://www.electrici...5/lpage103.html

Ten Common NEC Violations in Low-Voltage Systems:
http://datcominc.com...ations%2008.pdf

Understanding Low-Voltage and Power-Limited Systems – 2002 Edition
http://aetech.com/im...pdf/02lvtoc.pdf


HTH ... Marc ( Who warns: Don't you be takin no home lectrical wiring advice from no geologist ...)

 

[pete_c]

Thanks Marc..