Leviton vs. Elk wiring cabinet
- Thread starter signal15
- Start date
Sacedog
Active Member
If you are already using the Elk, I would personally get the same cabinet so that they match. I do, however, prefer the Leviton cans over the Elk ones.
I wanted to work on this stuff tonight, so I found a 24" Suttle can for $63. I think it's nicer than the Leviton cabinets.
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
Do a search for some thread on here....I've commented a few times before that IMHO the Channelvision is superiour to Leviton since Leviton will not accomodate channel vision modules while channelvision can will accept leviton and channel vision modules.
In either case neither will take OnQ modules, but in the channel vision it's easier to enlarge some of the holes to accept the OnQ modules. Some people also dismount the OnQ board and put them on universal mounting plates or just sticky tape them to the can.
The suttle can doesnt look very flexible from my first view since it has limited holes in the vertical direction.
In either case neither will take OnQ modules, but in the channel vision it's easier to enlarge some of the holes to accept the OnQ modules. Some people also dismount the OnQ board and put them on universal mounting plates or just sticky tape them to the can.
The suttle can doesnt look very flexible from my first view since it has limited holes in the vertical direction.
Neurorad
Senior Member
I have a CV enclosure, that I'll slowly be filling - I don't see any problems with tapping screws, for mounting anything anywhere. What's the disadvantage to this? I haven't tapped a single screw yet. I've mounted a modem, with industrial Velcro, and I've used a CV Universal Holder, but that's about it.
Why should I avoid tapping screws? Anyone?
Why should I avoid tapping screws? Anyone?
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
neurorad: it's just having metal fragments flying around if you already have circuit board components mounted (elk expanders, etc)... it's a little hairy in my opinion. I had to do it a few times but had all power in the panel off, covered the components with a dishtowel or similar, blew any bits off of them and carefully check before turning back on.
WayneW
Senior Member
I thought that self-tapping meant that the screw cut it's own threads. Meaning you didn't need to tap the hole. I have yet to see a screw go through a security enclosure without a pilot hole, but maybe I am a girly man?
You don't have to drill a pilot hole for self tapping screws. The tip of each one has a rudimentary drill tip on it. I mounted my 110 block using these, and I build an in floor heat boiler system and used about 75 of them to mount all of the components to a 4x4 foot metal panel.
Neurorad
Senior Member
Were shavings a problem, or even visible?
Monk
Active Member
Not that I try it every day Wayne, but I'm with you (ya girly man!). I always drill pilot holes no matter. The ends of these "Self-Drilling" (Not necessarily self tapping) screws while having their "Drill" look do not seem to be enough for any but the cheapest steel.
