Looking for wall mounted toggle/rocker switch for Elk

[mtwalsh367]

I am looking for a wall mounted toggle or rocker switch that will be connected as a low voltage zone input on my Elk/M1 system. In more detail I am using the serial interface with my M1 to control motorized blinds in my house. I currently use time of day and function keys on my M1 keypad to operate the blinds. I would like to add a standard wall plate in my living room with a toggle, rocker, or decora style switch as another option to control my blinds through the M1. My thought is the switch would need a center off standard position, an up position that would be connected to one M1 zone and then a down postion that would be connected to another zone. This would just need to be a momentary contact switch since I would just look for a zone activation to initiate a raise or lower command to my blinds.

I see a variety of options on manufacturers sites but am not sure of the terminology and don't want to make this more complicated than it needs to be. Any suggestions regarding switch type and brands or other alternatives would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[electron]

This isn't probably what you are looking for, but I want to mention it anyways. What about the X10 SS13A?

It would give you 6 buttons (each button is an on/off, depending which side you press), and looks pretty good. It's extremely slim, so you can put these anywhere. You would need to get a W800RF32 receiver, and a serial port expander (M1XSP), but worth it IMO. I use this setup, and am very happy with it.

 

[tmbrown97]

Well, Here's a thought:

120V non-automated switches are just contact switches - they don't care if you're running 3 volts or 120. I know Leviton makes a center-return switch - I was going to suggest using just one input and some good rules to accomplish this, but I just came across this switch in Leviton's Catalog:

http://www.laner.com/cgi-bin/wwiz.asp?wwiz...&sku=117424

That's a normal 120V dual-throw momentary press switch - just run it into your LV wiring (NO HIGH-VOLTAGE!) and you have your momentary press in each direction.

Now - I'm not sure what Code feels about this - you should at the very least use one of those high/low voltage boxes so you can keep the LV isolated - but other than that, it seems like it'd be a perfect solution.

 

[Lagerhead]

-->QUOTE(Todd B @ Aug 14 2008, 03:31 AM) [post="94476"][/post]
I just came across this switch in Leviton's Catalog:[/quote]

Nice find and a good-looking solution.

Matt -- I'd be interested to know the pros and cons of using two zones in this application. You apparently have thought about this. A single zone will work in principle if you wire a 2.2k resistor and look for the three states on the zone, thereby saving one zone. But there could be a response-time downside to this approach. Is quick response of the switch, in actual use, the key factor in your decision?

Dave

 

[mtwalsh367]

Thanks for the great input.

I am really looking for a hardwired solution at this time for a variety of reasons and the Leviton switch mentioned really sounds like a good fit. I do like the features of the X10 SS13A mentioned in the first post but am not looking to expand my M1 system to support that type of switch.

Also I wanted to respond to the question regarding using one zone or two. I hadn't considered using a single zone with a resistor to produce 3 different states for the same zone and now that you mention it I'll have to give it a try. I haven't used resitors on my existing zones and didn't realize I had more rule trigger options when using a resistor. Using one less zone just leaves that much more room for future fun.

-Matt

 

[Lagerhead]

Also I wanted to respond to the question regarding using one zone or two. I hadn't considered using a single zone with a resistor to produce 3 different states for the same zone and now that you mention it I'll have to give it a try. I haven't used resistors on my existing zones and didn't realize I had more rule trigger options when using a resistor. Using one less zone just leaves that much more room for future fun.

Matt,

Set it up as zone definition 16=Non-alarm, and zone type 0=EOL Supervised, and check Fast Loop. Wire one toggle position shorted, the other through the resistor. The "zone open" of course is the toggle in the middle position.

When you write the rules, under "Trigger Operands" you will need to check the box for "List advanced options" which will reveal the "Not secure - shorted" you will need to trigger off the shorted paddle position. The other paddle position will trigger the "Secure" state.

Dave

 

[mtwalsh367]

Thanks Dave, This makes perfect sense and I just checked out the configuration in the RP software. I'm curious to know what the "check fast loop" option is about.

 

[Lagerhead]

I'm curious to know what the "check fast loop" option is about.

Your ELK will recognize the paddle pushes a bit faster with this checked, and it's enough to make the difference between "the right feel" vs. "this button doesn't always work" for most people (my wife, as one example).

You don't have to set Fast Loop, it will work fine without, but try it both ways and see for yourself.

 

[tmbrown97]

Lagerhead - nice add with the resistor - saves a zone! I haven't installed my M1 yet, so I haven't quite nailed all the tricks!

 

[Lagerhead]

B)-->QUOTE(Todd B @ Aug 15 2008, 03:06 PM) [post="94574"][/post]
saves a zone![/quote]

Just being cheap!

 

[BDHall]

For what its worth, I have been using the Leviton momentary Decora switches for a while now with my Elk and have not had any issues so far. They are considerably more expensive than standard switches but I tell myself this should be a one time expense.

Brian