looking to buy a driveway gate... have OPII. What do I need to know?

and worst case, even without the alarm integration, it sounds like emergency personnel could just drive around it!
 
I have interconnected OmniPro2s to gate systems numerous times. I totally agree with DELs statement: "Honestly, the best way to do gate control is to have the gate controller itself do the safeties and loop/vehicle detection." The gate controller is designed to directly control the gate itself. Let it handle the safeties issues, sensing, timing and such.

Most gate controllers will provide a pair of dry contacts (or voltage) to indicate if the gate is open or not. So you don't even need to install your own contact sensor. And then also most controllers will have an input that will allow the OP2 to provide a pulse to activate the gate. If the gate is closed, a pulse on this input will open it. (I let the gate controller automatically close it based on its own internal timer.) Don't forget to use an isolation relay. I buy the ELK 612 relays by the 12-pac.

As a standard, I spec 16/4 out to the gate controller. 16/4 may seem like over-kill. But 16/4 is available in outdoor/direct bury while 22/4 is not. And if I am subcontracting the work out, the sub will probably have it on his truck. Also if we are looking at any significant distance, 16 AWG has less resistance than 22.

Most of the time I will include the connection to the gate controller in the project even if the customer did not ask for it. The surprise look on their face when I show them they can open the gate from their phone is worth it. ...like the commercial: "priceless".

When it comes to the keypad for access, let the gate contractor install one. They are design for the outdoor environment.
 
Thanks everyone, this is all coming together for me.

I have interconnected OmniPro2s to gate systems numerous times. I totally agree with DELs statement: "Honestly, the best way to do gate control is to have the gate controller itself do the safeties and loop/vehicle detection." The gate controller is designed to directly control the gate itself. Let it handle the safeties issues, sensing, timing and such.

Most gate controllers will provide a pair of dry contacts (or voltage) to indicate if the gate is open or not. So you don't even need to install your own contact sensor. And then also most controllers will have an input that will allow the OP2 to provide a pulse to activate the gate. If the gate is closed, a pulse on this input will open it. (I let the gate controller automatically close it based on its own internal timer.) Don't forget to use an isolation relay. I buy the ELK 612 relays by the 12-pac.

As a standard, I spec 16/4 out to the gate controller. 16/4 may seem like over-kill. But 16/4 is available in outdoor/direct bury while 22/4 is not. And if I am subcontracting the work out, the sub will probably have it on his truck. Also if we are looking at any significant distance, 16 AWG has less resistance than 22.

Most of the time I will include the connection to the gate controller in the project even if the customer did not ask for it. The surprise look on their face when I show them they can open the gate from their phone is worth it. ...like the commercial: "priceless".

When it comes to the keypad for access, let the gate contractor install one. They are design for the outdoor environment.

So - 16/4 from my OPII to the gate. Sweet. :)
 
I have just installed a pair of gates and need get the openers.  I am looking at http://www.liftmaster.com/lmcv2/pages/productmodeldetail.aspx?modelId=9725. 
 
It says it comes with a MyQ internet gateway.  While that will do much
of what I want, I would also like to interface to my ElkM1Gold.
 
Jaybird47 commented that Most have Open Indicators.  I was surprised that the GTO / MightyMule controller does not.  It has zero outputs for status.  I was disappointed. 
 
 
Has anyone had a possitive or negative experiance with the MyQ system or the Liftmaster LA500
 
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