Mechanical 120V switch

[Monk]

So - I thought that by installing one of those "turn past ..." spring-wound timer switches that I would be protecting a heater from being left on accidentally.  This is in a seldom used part of the house, so I already have the lights shut off automatically if left on > an hour - plus sends me an email. That's what prompted me to recheck the bathroom and find the heater still on.
 
This is the first time it hasn't worked - and the last. I need to replace it with something more reliable. Currently in a 3 gang box and controls a single 20 amp circuit to a fan/heater. I have it broken out so that only the heater is on the circuit. This heater puts out to the point where the room gets really hot if it is left on too long. So maybe Zwave so it could be monitored - your thoughts and experiences appreciated.

 

[Monk]

Having mentioned Z-wave, I now remember I do use some relay type Levitons (VRS15-1LX switch) for less demanding situations (current -wise). If I go Z-Wave it needs to be tougher. Still not against mechanical if the reliability were better.

 

[pete_c]

Yeah with a 20 AMP circuit I would use a contactor which switches HV with LV.  Then you can go to using your Elk Panel or a thermostat or whatever.
 
Make it a DIY automation project and tell us what you do.  Picture is using a Honeywell Contactor.
 

 
Today though too I have a few of the high amperage UPB light switches in place around the house; Kitchen cans, chandelier...et al type stuff.
 
I am also using UPB relay switches around the house.
 
Its been a few years now but I had problems switching on and off my 1000 watt toroidal landscaping tranformers for my LV lighting.
 
The only thing that worked for me was the older X10 stuff; Z-Wave, Insteon and UPB did not work for me at the time.  For whatever reason the relay switches would trip the breakers on the load of the 1000 watt landscaping transformer.
 
Switching to LED landscaping lighting I have removed all of the toroidal transformers and now switching multiple smaller for LED lighting transformers with one UPB relay switch.  Its working fine but the load is way lower than it used to be.

 

[Monk]

Thanks Pete -
I am now remembering mechanical switches that control stuff like whirlpools. Those seemed to have a different feel to them. I guess reliability is really the key so monitoring would be necessary. Maybe I'll monitor via using a Z-Wave switch in conjunction with a temp sensor.

 

[pete_c]

Yup; its been a couple of years ago.  It was a friends vacation home and he had some failure of those old timer type switches for his electric baseboard heaters.  Not automating he did replace all of them as the heat in the lower floor of the home used these in every room.  Upstairs though used forced air heat.
 
Or a cheap thermostat would work.
 
Here is a contactor on HS site store:
 
http://store.homeseer.com/store/ELK-9200-Heavy-Duty-RelayContactor-P740C178.aspx
 
This one used to sell for less:
 
http://store.homeseer.com/store/Intermatic-CA3750-Z-Wave-Contactor-Module-P407C178.aspx
 
And another one:
 
http://store.homeseer.com/store/Evolve-LFM-20-Z-Wave-Relay-Fixture-Module-P1007C178.aspx

 

[Monk]

Needing it to fit in a 1-switch space in a 3gang - also if the rating is depandant on not breaking off side pieces, that won't be good either. There is bound to be a switch rated for medical use or something more reliable than the ~40.00 mechanical.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Good idea to incorporate a temp sensor, might also want to consider a timer as well (as a backup second condition to ensure the heater does not run longer than you want to).  
 
I spent only two minutes on a quick search, but did find THIS controller board what was meant to control relays based on analog inputs, but also incorporates timers and on board temp sensors. I don't know how powerful the logic is, but I imagine you could incorporate both temp and time.
 
Of course you would use the relays to trigger a contactor (based on your current load).   Anyway, you get the idea.

 

[Monk]

Drat - one more thing I need - Mirror Defogger

 

[Monk]

Thanks BSR.
Unless there is some sort of ultimate mechanical - my thoughts are moving towards Z-Wave and a temp sensor (hard wired to ELK) for backup.

 

[pete_c]

Yup; the UPB high amperage switches do have kind of large heatsinks on either side of them.
 
Here a few years back did add another circuit to the bathroom separating out the lighting and fan stuff and adding one circuit for a supplimental heater.  (there were only two - whirlpool stuff and everything else).

 

[tmbrown97]

You can always use the technology of your choice (upb, zwave, etc) with a contactor so you can get around the current limitations of the switch - the contactor will be better suited for those high loads.  Granted it may affect how it's wired today, but that's fixable.
 
Also - in addition to just monitoring temperature, you can also use a CT on the hot lead to the fan - that way you can use logic stating that "if the switch is off and current is detected, then alert you".  I'd also be tempted to add a thermostat to a heater no matter so you can limit the max temp in the room to a setpoint - say 76 degrees or something so the heater gets a hard shutoff and can't turn on past the point set on a mechanical tstat.

 

[Monk]

Really want to keep the wiring as is. A Z-Wave relay switch then a separate temp sender is going to fit the bill probably.

 

[Monk]

So now I'm looking for a 20amp Z-Wave switch - I see HomePro ZRW103 - that is discontinued - replaced by a 15 amp model. UGH.

 

[IndyMike]

I know you were looking to automate this with a temp sensor for feedback....
 
...but these are really simple: http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/leviton-ltb60-1lz-timer.html
 
I have 5 of them in my bathrooms (12 years).  It's just about the only thing I haven't automated - they won't die. 

 

[Monk]

I had looked at those at a local Home Depot. Do you use them for high current stuff (heater)?