MOBOTIX T24MX
- Thread starter beaumeri
- Start date
i've been looking at the mobotix cameras for some time: the T24 door station (it's a lot smaller than the HAI-supported 2N solution), and the hemispherical cameras. i've been hesitant because i wasn't sure how easily they'd integrate w/ my existing HAI touchscreens and didn't want to eat the cost if i ordered them and they turned out to not work with HAI.
beaumeri
Member
Unless I missed something as long as it can send a contact (no or nc) to my ELK system when the doorbell button is pressed I think I'll be fine. I already planed for Elk UltraProx Wiegand Reader, outside motion to trigger outside lights and Z-wave door locks.
Lets' put it that way:
If when someone ring the MOBOTIX, it send a signal to my ELK I'll be happy. The T24MX will ring all my IP phones and my ELK / CQC will announce over the whole house audio.
I can answer with the IP phone.
Now that I think about this I'll also be curious to know how with the phone can I trigger the z-wave door lock. Maybe the T24MX would to send a second contact to my ELK / CQC ???
I'll be contacting MOBOTIX to clarify this.
I'm also thinking installing their T24MX in a dual vertical box with a blank insert in the bottom part. Then mount the Elk UltraProx Wiegand Reader either behind the blank insert or on directly on it.
Now I also need to look in my IP phone solution... :rockon:
I'll keep you posted.
Lets' put it that way:
If when someone ring the MOBOTIX, it send a signal to my ELK I'll be happy. The T24MX will ring all my IP phones and my ELK / CQC will announce over the whole house audio.
I can answer with the IP phone.
Now that I think about this I'll also be curious to know how with the phone can I trigger the z-wave door lock. Maybe the T24MX would to send a second contact to my ELK / CQC ???
I'll be contacting MOBOTIX to clarify this.
I'm also thinking installing their T24MX in a dual vertical box with a blank insert in the bottom part. Then mount the Elk UltraProx Wiegand Reader either behind the blank insert or on directly on it.
Now I also need to look in my IP phone solution... :rockon:
I'll keep you posted.
beaumeri
Member
Here's what I'm thinking.
The integration I'm thinking about with this T24MX is to send a signal (NC or NO) to my CQC/ELK system when the doorbell is triggered. This can allow me to get paged on my mobile, start the mobile app for this device and interact with the person at the door. Then I can unlock the door using the ELK/CQC app (Z-wave lock).
Also it would be nice if the T24MW when interacting with a vidophone could also send a signal to CQC/ELK to unlock the door. a simple NO or NC contact signal would do and the CQC/ELK would do the rest with the Z-wave lock.
My automation skills are at the beginner stage but I've notice the T24MX have some From C relay to trigger different things including a strike. Maybe we can connect these relay to the CQC/ELK in some way so they pass conditions/status? then the ELK/CQC would handle the z-wave lock?
Any thought on this one?
The integration I'm thinking about with this T24MX is to send a signal (NC or NO) to my CQC/ELK system when the doorbell is triggered. This can allow me to get paged on my mobile, start the mobile app for this device and interact with the person at the door. Then I can unlock the door using the ELK/CQC app (Z-wave lock).
Also it would be nice if the T24MW when interacting with a vidophone could also send a signal to CQC/ELK to unlock the door. a simple NO or NC contact signal would do and the CQC/ELK would do the rest with the Z-wave lock.
My automation skills are at the beginner stage but I've notice the T24MX have some From C relay to trigger different things including a strike. Maybe we can connect these relay to the CQC/ELK in some way so they pass conditions/status? then the ELK/CQC would handle the z-wave lock?
Any thought on this one?
beaumeri
Member
I was considering strike but I really do not know if any strike would fit on my door because I have a Side window beside the door (See picture)
There is only 1" 7/8 wood frame between the door and the side window. An also not sure where I would run the wire for the strike. The door a in need of painting so I do not mind some tinkering. Do you think a strike would fit???
You could just about drive a truck through that amount of wood for a strike.
Something like a HES 8000 or 8300 would fit with room to spare. Same with a Securitron Unlatch.
Wiring would be run between the insulated panels straight down to the sill or up, depending on the wire route needed. Only hard part would be to get through the sill, usually aluminum or through the header. If you're dealing with getting through the sill, then using a 3/4" recessed contact usually would get you enough working room to be able to hit the hollow of the sidelite as well as get a decent angle to get through the sill with at least a 3/8" hole comfortably.
Between the inner skin and outer skin of the door there is a hollow that is filled with expanded foam insulation, really not that big a deal to get a wire route through for an 18/2 in this case once the strike area is made a standard ANSI prep. Depending on your 18/2 diameter, you could get away with a 1/4" hole through the foam, but I'd go 3/8 if I were to do it.
Only difficult part is getting the splice for the strike to go down the wire route/channel once all is said and done.
Something like a HES 8000 or 8300 would fit with room to spare. Same with a Securitron Unlatch.
Wiring would be run between the insulated panels straight down to the sill or up, depending on the wire route needed. Only hard part would be to get through the sill, usually aluminum or through the header. If you're dealing with getting through the sill, then using a 3/4" recessed contact usually would get you enough working room to be able to hit the hollow of the sidelite as well as get a decent angle to get through the sill with at least a 3/8" hole comfortably.
Between the inner skin and outer skin of the door there is a hollow that is filled with expanded foam insulation, really not that big a deal to get a wire route through for an 18/2 in this case once the strike area is made a standard ANSI prep. Depending on your 18/2 diameter, you could get away with a 1/4" hole through the foam, but I'd go 3/8 if I were to do it.
Only difficult part is getting the splice for the strike to go down the wire route/channel once all is said and done.
beaumeri
Member
Any recommendation HES 8000 versus Securitron Unlatch?
beaumeri
Member
How noisy is the 8300 and Unlatch? I have no preference for the installation just looking for something not to noisy and reliable.
Any experience with either one?