Need Elk M1G Layout Recommends for a Leviton Enclosure

[autophil]

I have purchased a Elk M1G system for home and need recommendations for a typical (or optimal) layout in a Leviton 42" Structured Media Enclosure.

In addition to a few minor datacomm components in the panel, the Elk components in the enclosure consist of:
M1G Controller w/ battery & transformer.
M1XEP Ethernet Port Interface
M1XIN 16-Zone Input Expander (3ea)
M1RB 8-Port Output Relay Board
M1XSP UPB/Tstat Serial Expander
M1TWK 2-way Listen-in Kit
ELK120 Voice/Siren Driver

Do I need any special adapter plates, shelves, etc. for the boards listed above to work with the Leviton panel?

I'm considering 2"x2" PVC open slot ducts mounted vertically inside the panel on each side to route wires, but not sure if it's a good idea.

Any help would be appreciated. Links, photos, or documents with examples of layouts would be great. Thanks.

 

[Steve]

It's almost impossible to give an optimal layout since every install is different. You really need to just do whatever works for you. Of course there are some guidelines and tips... First, a can is like a hard drive, they fill up really fast if you just throw stuff in it. I like to use mounting plates like the Channel Vision C-308 and mount components to it. I would do a layout on the floor before anything is installed and then you can arrange it however works well for you and drill (preferred) or tape the components to the plates. I like to drill the plate and use a nylon standoff. Leviton may have some plates similar to the C-308, etc but if not the CV plates will fit in a Leviton can. Here are some pictures of one layout I did. Finger channel can work well to. Dan (electron) used some in his layout. There are also several other pictures around of some layout. And, Welcome to CocoonTech!

 

[wuench]

You have two basic options, you can mount the cards perpendicular to the can or flat/parallel to the can. Perpendicular, using elk card slides, has issues with closing the door and cabling, but saves the most space. Parallel/flat takes up more space but is more organized.

I went the parallel/flat route, you can see pictures at the link in my sig. I have basically followed Electron's format, using wire management, etc. Except for the M1 itself, which is screwed directly to the can, everything is mounted using the mounting pins so everything can be moved around. For cards that don't have holes that line up, I used Leviton security strips, basically blank metal strips mounts that you can screw into. I also broke out my power and speaker connections to terminal strips. With power you only have one set of connectors on the Elk, so if you have to tap into that you need to break it out somehow. Ditto for the speakers, and it is helpful to use terminal strips so you can reconfigure these connections as stuff is added.

The one thing I wish I had done differently is to mount the M1 at the bottom of the can, but above battery and power supply. That way you have separation from the power and signal cables and the wiring never crosses.

There is also a couple of great threads out there with Elk pictures, but I am having trouble finding it due to the forum conversion...

 

[autophil]

You have two basic options, you can mount the cards perpendicular to the can or flat/parallel to the can. Perpendicular, using elk card slides, has issues with closing the door and cabling, but saves the most space. Parallel/flat takes up more space but is more organized.

I went the parallel/flat route, you can see pictures at the link in my sig. I have basically followed Electron's format, using wire management, etc. Except for the M1 itself, which is screwed directly to the can, everything is mounted using the mounting pins so everything can be moved around. For cards that don't have holes that line up, I used Leviton security strips, basically blank metal strips mounts that you can screw into. I also broke out my power and speaker connections to terminal strips. With power you only have one set of connectors on the Elk, so if you have to tap into that you need to break it out somehow. Ditto for the speakers, and it is helpful to use terminal strips so you can reconfigure these connections as stuff is added.

The one thing I wish I had done differently is to mount the M1 at the bottom of the can, but above battery and power supply. That way you have separation from the power and signal cables and the wiring never crosses.

There is also a couple of great threads out there with Elk pictures, but I am having trouble finding it due to the forum conversion...

Thank you so much for your excellent and quick response. The photos and recommendations are great and really help. You built an outstanding system.

I agree that mounting boards flat will be much easier, especially with a large number of inputs.

Questions -
1. Are you using the Elk-SWP for your mounting plates on the XOVR,M1XIN,M1XSP, etc?
2. Is it possible to mount these boards directly to the Leviton can using stand-offs? (ELK-SWNS1) or is that a 100% drilling solution?

Thanks again.

 

[wuench]

Questions -
1. Are you using the Elk-SWP for your mounting plates on the XOVR,M1XIN,M1XSP, etc?
2. Is it possible to mount these boards directly to the Leviton can using stand-offs? (ELK-SWNS1) or is that a 100% drilling solution?

Thanks again.

1.) Some of the cards will mount to the Elk-SWP and some will not. If you look close at the pictures you can see where I used them. The DBH, XIN, XOVR and XSP will mount to the SWP. Some even come with them. Others, M1XEP, PD9, etc do not mount to the SWP, and in that case I used the leviton security strips. Which I have to admit is an expensive alternative. There may be better generic mounting panels out there. When you get your cards, you can try the cards and see which ones fit to the SWP and which do not.

2.) You really can't mount the cards using just standoffs unless you want to drill. The drawback of that approach is you can't rearrange things easily.

Another tip stolen from Electron, I use brass standoffs (for PC motherboards) vs. the plastic elk ones. One cool thing he did was to mount several XSP's on top of each other with those, which I may replicate if I need to buy more XSP's.

Lastly, the Elk battery shelf will not fit in a non-elk can without drilling. I used the Leviton battery shelf instead.

 

[WayneW]

1.) Some of the cards will mount to the Elk-SWP and some will not. If you look close at the pictures you can see where I used them. The DBH, XIN, XOVR and XSP will mount to the SWP. Some even come with them. Others, M1XEP, PD9, etc do not mount to the SWP, and in that case I used the leviton security strips. Which I have to admit is an expensive alternative. There may be better generic mounting panels out there. When you get your cards, you can try the cards and see which ones fit to the SWP and which do not.

I use the trick that Spanky mentioned a long time ago... I glue magnetic strips (available at HD/Lowes/craft stores) to the back of things like the XEP, PD9, etc and just stick them where I want them. Easy to re-arrange and pretty strong. The magnets are stronger than the glue that came on my roll of magnets, so I use rubber cement.

example: http://www.allmagnetics.com/flexible/flexiblestrip.htm

 

[Monk]

1.) Some of the cards will mount to the Elk-SWP and some will not. If you look close at the pictures you can see where I used them. The DBH, XIN, XOVR and XSP will mount to the SWP. Some even come with them. Others, M1XEP, PD9, etc do not mount to the SWP, and in that case I used the leviton security strips. Which I have to admit is an expensive alternative. There may be better generic mounting panels out there. When you get your cards, you can try the cards and see which ones fit to the SWP and which do not.

I use the trick that Spanky mentioned a long time ago... I glue magnetic strips (available at HD/Lowes/craft stores) to the back of things like the XEP, PD9, etc and just stick them where I want them. Easy to re-arrange and pretty strong. The magnets are stronger than the glue that came on my roll of magnets, so I use rubber cement.

example: http://www.allmagnetics.com/flexible/flexiblestrip.htm

Another trick - or method, rather - I use 3M "Velcro" which I find to have super adhesive properties. Note the blue router in the center can and the smaller router and modems below to the right have been mounted this way for over one year. I can still pull them off of the can without problem. Not as flexible as a magnet, I suppose but it works fine without glue.
http://www.cocoontech.com/forums/index.php...q=si&img=42

 

[tmbrown97]

I didn't drill (laziness I suppose) - instead I used the Elk double-sided foam (you see little pieces of it come with some elk components) - I bought a separate package full of it. I used that to stick my stuff to the plates without worrying about standoffs. It's pretty thick stuff so it keeps the components high off the metal so there's no shorting

However, if I add another XSP, I too will be stealing the trick of stacking the XSP's.

 

[Neurorad]

Dan (electron)'s enclosure, old pic:

http://www.cocoontech.com/forums/index.php...eq=si&img=1

XSP's stacked (left side of left can, halfway down), finger channel along sides

 

[Traditore]

Lastly, the Elk battery shelf will not fit in a non-elk can without drilling. I used the Leviton battery shelf instead.

Huh... The Elk battery shelf does fit in my Leviton 28'' enclosure. No drilling involved.