new Elk M1 install by newbie

BradScott

Member
Just got the M1 Gold for security and lighting control. I've got some really basic install questions I could use help with.

1) I got the 28" box I'm putting in a bedroom closet. Should I surface mount it or recess it into the wall. I can get to the attic above the closet easily, so wiring is not problem.

2) Should I run a power outlet inside the box, or on the wall below? Should I use a surge protector? Should I use a surge protector on the phone line only?

3) Wiring to the keypad -- my Home Depot has 4-wire Cat5 I can buy by the foot, though the manual recommends 6 wire. But only four wires connect to the keypad. Should I use the 4-wire, or if I need 6 wire, where can I get 6-wire Cat5?

4) Do I need Cat5 for the outdoor (tamper resistant) motion detectors (ALEPH XC-1XT)? Or will any 4-wire work? Is CAT3 a good choice? Or should I use 6-wire and use the tamper connection? Is that worth it? Same question for the indoor detectors (DSC BV300).

5) If I mount the NX-548E wireless receiver in the SW box (in the bedroom at the rear corner of the house, farthest from the garage), will the keyfobs work as I approach the house from 150' away? Or should I install the NX-548E in the garage?

6) Will any 4-wire do for the (4-wire) smoke detector?

7) Any recommendations on how to protect the outdoor phone wire and cable wire (on the side of the house) from being cut or disconnected easily?

8) What is the best way to connect the wires I run from the Elk to the door contacts and EOL resistors? Crimp on butt connectors? Wire nuts? solder?

Thanks for the help!
 
BradScott said:
3) Wiring to the keypad -- my Home Depot has 4-wire Cat5 I can buy by the foot, though the manual recommends 6 wire. But only four wires connect to the keypad. Should I use the 4-wire, or if I need 6 wire, where can I get 6-wire Cat5?
If it is 4-wire, it isn't cat5. Cat5 has 8 conductors. For the keypad, you can use anything with 4 conductors or more, cat5 is fine. The advantage to using 6 (or more) conductors for the keypad has to do with terminating the bus. If you wish to use the retrofit hub, then 4conductor is fine. If you wish to use the regular hub, then cat5 is great.

BradScott said:
4) Do I need Cat5 for the outdoor (tamper resistant) motion detectors (ALEPH XC-1XT)? Or will any 4-wire work? Is CAT3 a good choice? Or should I use 6-wire and use the tamper connection? Is that worth it? Same question for the indoor detectors (DSC BV300).
Any 4 conductor wire will work for the motion detectors. IIRC, you can either get the tamper function working on 4 wires by using a resistor or two, or you can use 6 wires and have a dedicated tamper zone.

BradScott said:
6) Will any 4-wire do for the (4-wire) smoke detector?
Technically, yes. Red jacket is traditionally used. It seems that 18gauge is often spec'ed, but I don't know why as smaller wire will work fine.

BradScott said:
7) Any recommendations on how to protect the outdoor phone wire and cable wire (on the side of the house) from being cut or disconnected easily?
conduit

BradScott said:
8) What is the best way to connect the wires I run from the Elk to the door contacts and EOL resistors? Crimp on butt connectors? Wire nuts? solder?
crimp on B connectors are probably easiest. solder is probably the best, but most time consuming. wire nuts would be my last choice.
 
Buy fire alarm wire for the smoke detectors. I believe it's rated to withstand some heat/flame in the hopes that your detectors actually detect the fire before they cables die.

Notes: check with local authorities on codes. Some require plenum or riser-rated cables going between floors. (Some jusisdictions, like mine, only care if its Commercial space)

Don't run wires in HVAC ducts unless you get "plenum" --> if you have a fire, the plenum stuff won't spew toxic chemicals into the air.
 
Sorry, got called away:

1) Always protect sensitive electronics from line surges. Even if you're doing lighting with some sort of PLC, you'd still want the security system surge protected.
2) Surface vs. recessed mounts are personal preference. It's a bit easier to work with surface mounted units (its easier to feed the knock-outs), but it isn't that hard to install a conduit!
3) IMHO, never run CAT3. The cost differential between CAT3 and CAT5 is negligible, and CAT5 is so much more versatile.
 
Okay, I must have misread the Cat5 box at Home Depot, because it definitely said Cat5e plenum or riser (two types).

So maybe I should just buy the 500 foot roll and use it for everything?
 
Everything but the fire alarm, that is. I'll have to see if Home Depot has fire alarm wire.

Thanks for the responses!
 
It seems that 18gauge is often spec'ed, but I don't know why as smaller wire will work fine.
Supposedly because of voltage drop. The longer the run, the thicker the wire. In some (rare) circumstances, 22 or 24 gauge wires could have enough drop to make a difference. Bump the wire up to 18 gauge, and that takes care of 99.99% of the cases.
 
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