New Elk M1 System

[JayD.]

I am planning my ELK system for 6000 sf new construction.  I plan to use the components listed below.  Please provide comments/insights on the following:

1. What is missing?
2. What additional components are required?
3. Is a larger battery needed? (ELK-1280 8Ah Battery)
4. Are there better PIR/GB’s to consider?

Thank you in advance

• ELK-M1GSYS4STW Wireless System
• ELK-M1KPB Keypad
• ELK-M1KP2  Keypad
• ELK-M1KP3  Keypad
• M1KPAS  Keypad
• ELKM1XSLZW Zwave
• ELK-M1DBH Data
• ELK-M1XEP Ethernet
• ELKM1XSP Serial Expander
• ELKSWS Battery Shelf
• ELK-6020 Wireless (3)
• ELK-6021 Wireless (3)
• ELK-6022 Wireless (2)
• Sentrol 6540U PIR
• Sentrol 6550U PIR
• Sentrol 5812EZ GB
• Sentrol 5822A GB
• Sentrol 3008 Plunger (5)
• Will install smokes later

 

[drvnbysound]

Why wireless sensors for new construction?

 

[RAL]

For PIR detectors, consider the Bosch Blue Line, especially if you need pet immunity.
 
For glass break detectors, some here will tell you that the Sentrol detectors are based on old technology, and others brands, such as VIsonic, are much better and less prone to false alarms.

 

[RAL]

I assume the Sentrol 3008 plungers are for doors. Is there a reason you are choosing plungers rather than magnetic contacts?

 

[Linwood]

The  ELK-M1KPNAV keypads are very nice if the audience using the system isn't inclined to a good memory or doesn't like more obscure codes, and especially if you are doing automation without separate controls.
 
Run wires everywhere -- everywhere. In new construction it's virtually free, and less battery/quirks of wireless.

 

[wuench]

Why wireless sensors for new construction?

 
+1 Do you really want to pay more, so you can run around and change batteries every few years?  I have a wireless system and have been slowly converting it to wired...

 

[JayD.]

Thanks for the comments.  I am using wireless on most windows/doors because the builder and manufacturer prefer that I not drill into window casement. I will run wire for all other applications.  Additionally, I will install iPads running eKeypad is several locations to emulate the ELK-M1KPNAV functionality.  I will research Bosch and Visonic sensors.
 
Will I have any power consumption problems?

 

[RAL]

You can use Elk's current draw spreadsheet to see how much power your system requires.   For battery standby power, Elk recommends that the battery be able to operate the system for 4 hours in a residential install.  Depending on the reliability of their electric utility company, some people like to go higher than that.  The M1 can charge batteries of up to 18Ah combined capacity.  If you want more capacity than the 8Ah battery included in the M1 kit provides, you can simply connect a second 1280 battery in parallel with it to get a total of 16Ah.

 

[drvnbysound]

Thanks for the comments.  I am using wireless on most windows/doors because the builder and manufacturer prefer that I not drill into window casement. I will run wire for all other applications.  Additionally, I will install iPads running eKeypad is several locations to emulate the ELK-M1KPNAV functionality.  I will research Bosch and Visonic sensors.
 
Will I have any power consumption problems?

 
Just because you can't drill into the window casement doesn't mean that you can't use a wired sensor....

 

[JayD.]

Just because you can't drill into the window casement doesn't mean that you can't use a wired sensor....

Could you explain?

 

[42etus]

Thanks for the comments.  I am using wireless on most windows/doors because the builder and manufacturer prefer that I not drill into window casement

Good grief, who's house is this? The way it works is you tell them, not they tell you. With new construction, wired is the ONLY way to go.
 
The wife and I just finished building our latest home and we told the builder how everything was going to be. No if, and or buts. He said no problem to everything and made it happen. We dropped one builder because he said he couldn't allow me to do my own wiring ON MY OWN HOUSE!

 

[drvnbysound]

Could you explain?

 
The window casement makes up the physical window; the parts that hold the glass. You can still drill through the rough in opening of the framing to wire sensors. Drilling into the casement is only required if you are trying to do flush mount/hidden sensors.
 

 
Note that the picture on the right is pre-magnet installation and sticker to cover the screws.

 

[NeverDie]

Nice pictures!
 
On mine they embedded a wired sensor in the window sill and embedded a corresponding magnet on the bottom of the window.  When the window's closed it's all invisible.  If you look inside the window track when it's open, you can see the top of the sensor, along with the caulking they used to seal it.  The installer used excessive caulk (looks sloppy), but as I rarely open the windows, it 's mostly out-of-sight, out-of-mind.
 
Anyhow, six of one, half a dozen of the other.

 

[drvnbysound]

What I like about the location that I used, depending on where you live, is that you can install a second magnet to maintain contact if you like to leave windows cracked open a bit at night.

 

[Del91574]

The biggest item of contention with drilling openings is what it does to warranties...some vendors void the entire assembly warranty while others will only void the components that were modified, some do not affect warranties at all.