Our house currently has a SAV20BAY by Bay Alarm - just bought Elk

[sc2k2]

It says "VISTA20BAY" and "New E2 programming". It's powered on, currently showing a number of faults, but I've never used it or tried to do anything with it. I know there are a number of smoke detectors and door/window sensors throughout the house. I'm guessing most work and some don't.

I was going to hold off but a price on an Elk M1 Gold came up that I couldn't pass up. I wanted to see if any of you have experience removing an alarm system and reusing the sensors with an elk. Keep in mind if there are arm/disarm passcodes for the existing system I have no idea what they are. I'm wondering if it would make sense to run some sort of diagnostics or troubleshooting prior to removing the system and installing the Elk in its place.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[gatchel]

Most normal contacts and motions can be re-used. You may have to remove and /or change out the EOL resistors if they were installed at the devices or at all. A Volt Ohm Meter and a tone generator/tracer (Fox and Hound) can definitey be of value if nothing is labeled.

 

[Del91574]

You have private labelled panel which is essentially 1 of 2 panels, either a V-20SE or V-20P, and pretty straightforward to swap.

You'd need to determine if any devices are RF, which would possibly point to dead batteries causing the faults, otherwise time with a meter is going to need to take place to see what is left working and what isn't, and if it's only replacing a contact or two or wiring related.

 

[sc2k2]

You have private labelled panel which is essentially 1 of 2 panels, either a V-20SE or V-20P, and pretty straightforward to swap.

You'd need to determine if any devices are RF, which would possibly point to dead batteries causing the faults, otherwise time with a meter is going to need to take place to see what is left working and what isn't, and if it's only replacing a contact or two or wiring related.

I can't really spot anything suggesting V-20SE or V-20P on the board, but could post pics. Should I swap out the box and everything or just the board? The Elk M1 Gold package did come with a box and apparently everything else. It sounds like I may need to get a line tracer as nothing is labeled, although I suppose I could mark off what's plugged in below and compaer based on manuals (assuming contacts 19-20 are always smoke, contact 1 is always front door, etc).

I couldn't find any way to reset the password or go to a system default, and I don't think I can access test mode without it.

 

[Del91574]

Does the board have a large black heatsink or a smaller silver folded metal one? Is the panel 100% hardwired or are there RF devices?

There are no generalizations that can be made regarding zoning any burglar alarm panel, as it is installation specific. Usually there is some sort of notation, either on the keypad or hopefully wiring is somewhat labelled. Barring that, I'd inspect any users manuals, if they were left.

The easiest way to proceed would be to do a 1-1 swap and fix each zone until you get continuity. Toning out a wire will only give a general idea of what devices may or may not be on a zone.

 

[pmb1010]

Try 4 1 1 1 as the master code.
If the installer was of any value, they would have changed that though... but its worth a shot.

 

[Del91574]

FWIW, proprietary panels usually have non-standard default IC's.

 

[sc2k2]

Any recommendations on tone tracers?

Triplett 3399 Fox 2 & Hound 3 Probe Kit


Found that one on amazon.

 

[sc2k2]

Also, thanks for all the help. I'll try to get some pictures posted soon.

 

[JimS]

If the panel is functioning at all, and it sounds like it is, you can just open doors to trip sensors and see which zone is indicated on the keypad. Take some notes. Have someone else help with any motion sensors - one person can trip the sensor and the other watch the keypad. The fire zone may be hooked to a special zone in the panel. If you have battery powered sensors it may be worth trying to figure out some of the faults but only if the sensors are able to work with your new panel. Then label the wires based on your notes - the zone numbers should be by the terminal strips where the zones hook to the panel. Then rip out the panel and keypad and replace. I wouldn't waste time trying to figure out the codes for the old panel.