Please help Having a problem with Cooper dimmer Z-wave switch

[scottp73]

I have been having a problem with one of my Cooper Z-wave Dimmer Switches. It is in a 5 Gang (Not that would make any diffrence).

What is happing, When I push the switch to turn off the lights the Dimmer Switch shows that the lights are off but the Lights stay on. I have to pull the Little Pin on the Right side to kill power to the switch to turn off the lights. It seems that it works fine untill it warms up. In other words if I turn on the lights and back off in just a few min it will go off after the switch has been on for some time then it wont go off. Also when an Z-wave command is sent it thinks the lights are off even thoe they are still on.


I have replaced the switch and still having the same problem. Could there be a wireing problem that might be causing this. I replaced all 5 and still haveing the same problem with the same switch location (Allways the same set of lights.)

Thanks in advanced for any help with this

 

[twilo123]

just reaching here so bear with me...

1. not an electrician but 5 gang might make a difference if the wiring/voltage is not right.

2. cooper support associations. this is how they initiate a 3 way switch functionality. could it be that the dimmer in question is associated to another switch or in wall controller? when you set an association you can set different status to multiple devices because you are basically just grouping them for single command control. so you could have 1 light turn on and another turn off and send 1 group command to initiate both. in this case you would have the screw up backwards type of control where on is off and off is on for a device.

3. depending on how the zwave command is being sent it could be a toggle command or discrete on/off command. sounds like whatever you are using to send the zwave commands is using a toggle type of command so it has no clue of the actual status of the device unless it used some kind of polling method to see the status afterwords and then process with some logic to double check the return info. any physical type of remote most likely will not do this. even in the software side it is up to the developer.

 

[Dogman]

First of it is not clear if it was working properly at one time . If it was then it is more of a a mystery. If it never had worked properly have you checked polarity ie that the hot is the actual switched leg of the circuit and not the neutral? Check with a volt meter and make sure the hot is actually hot ie check to both neutral and to ground to see if you have 120 VAC. Also does the switch act the same way prior to including it into the network? Ie does it work normally before it even knows it is part of a network or association?

 

[nick_l]

I have been having a problem with one of my Cooper Z-wave Dimmer Switches. It is in a 5 Gang (Not that would make any diffrence).

Actually it could make a significant difference. You haven't mentioned what the load is, but if it is in a 5 gang box it would require significant de-rating (especially if the other switches are also dinners).

It's very possible you are exceeding the rating of the switch.

 

[scottp73]

Actually it could make a significant difference. You haven't mentioned what the load is, but if it is in a 5 gang box it would require significant de-rating (especially if the other switches are also dinners).

It's very possible you are exceeding the rating of the switch.

each switch is running 6 CF bulbs. and also it is always the same one that is giving the the problem!! even after I put in all new Dimmers it is still the same one giving me the problem also.

 

[scottp73]

First of it is not clear if it was working properly at one time . If it was then it is more of a a mystery. If it never had worked properly have you checked polarity ie that the hot is the actual switched leg of the circuit and not the neutral? Check with a volt meter and make sure the hot is actually hot ie check to both neutral and to ground to see if you have 120 VAC. Also does the switch act the same way prior to including it into the network? Ie does it work normally before it even knows it is part of a network or association?

does this even when not part of the network!!

 

[oberkc]

each switch is running 6 CF bulbs

Are you sure the switch is "rated" for CFL loads? While I am not personally familiar with this particular switch, many of such types are rated only for incandescent. It has been my experience that using an improper load can affect operation of these types of switches. I would certainly be a simple experiment to confirm. Better yet, check the included documentation.

 

[intozwave]

None of the manufacturers I am aware of support using dimmer switches with CFL bulbs or flourescents because of the ballasts - CFL bulbs tend to flicker on dimmer switches - could be nice this time of year