The house I purchased is about 18 years old and was pre-wired for security. I'm in the process of hooking everything up, and have traced most of the wires, but can't find the wire for the External Sounder. Its at the panel, but I'm not sure where the other side runs? Anyone know where they typically run these to? Attic somewhere?
Pre-Wire External Sounder Location
- Thread starter ano
- Start date
drvnbysound
Senior Member
I've usually seen them mounted on or near eaves - usually on the side or back of the house.
pete_c
Guru
Too if the house was re sided they might have removed the old sounder box and left the wires in the attic.
Easy to find using a toner. Just plug the one side over at the panel end (ground and wire).
Start maybe using the toner outside under the gables / corners there. The sound from the toner / wire is very distinct and you cannot miss it.
Get familiar with what you will hear right at the panel.
Here used my toner last week to configure one POE connection in the middle of the attic. I had not labeled the cable and one side did run to a cluster of cables which had been left unterminated. (well there are 4 separate patch panels to look). The attic side was easy so I connected the toner stuff there and found it right away. The time only involved climbing in to the attic and walking down a couple of sets of stairs to the basement. I was able to hear the tone from the wire in the walls on the second floor, main floor and in the chase to the punch panel section. Thinking I have used the toner maybe twice in 10 years.
Easy to find using a toner. Just plug the one side over at the panel end (ground and wire).
Start maybe using the toner outside under the gables / corners there. The sound from the toner / wire is very distinct and you cannot miss it.
Get familiar with what you will hear right at the panel.
Here used my toner last week to configure one POE connection in the middle of the attic. I had not labeled the cable and one side did run to a cluster of cables which had been left unterminated. (well there are 4 separate patch panels to look). The attic side was easy so I connected the toner stuff there and found it right away. The time only involved climbing in to the attic and walking down a couple of sets of stairs to the basement. I was able to hear the tone from the wire in the walls on the second floor, main floor and in the chase to the punch panel section. Thinking I have used the toner maybe twice in 10 years.
Thanks everyone. Very helpful info. There was an internal sounder located in the air return above the air filter, that I found. Previously this house had an ADT cheapy alarm which was one console, one motion detector, the front door, and a cheap sounder in the air return. Unfortunately the el-cheapo alarm the former people had didn't use the external sounder wire.
I'm surprised, all the magnets and wires work after 18 years. Of course, no EOL resisters, so I'll put them the the box, like I tell everyone not to do. I'd would be major work to add these.
I'm surprised, all the magnets and wires work after 18 years. Of course, no EOL resisters, so I'll put them the the box, like I tell everyone not to do. I'd would be major work to add these.
pete_c
Guru
How the heck did you get to it? Did have some sort of plenum cover over it?
Noticed when I updated the neighbors alarm panel the previous "el-cheapo" alarm company installer just stripped the end of a piece of HV romex sticking out of the ceiling over the alarm panel and twisted the wires around the transformer and used black tape to wrap it all up in a little ball. There was so much black tape that it did look more like a little ball with romex connected to it.
drvnbysound
Senior Member
Based on your situation, why not just wire it without EOLs?
The ones in the return ducts sound off throughout the house so loud it hurts the ears. There is no hiding from that sound and you can't get to the panel fast enough. It's the best way to get intruders out of the house as fast as you can and avoid further vandalism.
You can't stop them from getting in but you can encourage a fast exit!
You can't stop them from getting in but you can encourage a fast exit!
Yeah this is pretty typical around here. Since we mostly use AC, the air returns are in the ceiling. There always seems to be about 6" - 8" between the air filter top and where the ductwork starts. This is where the internal sounders are, so lots of room to install it. As LarryLix says, very very loud. The sound seems to hit the floor below and bounce everywhere. Its ear-splitting for about 30 ft. If I was robbing a house with this going, I would get out fast also. I'm thinking about a stobe also. You want to keep the bad guys from knowing when the police arrive. They will leave sooner.pete_c said:
I thought about turning off EOL resistors, but I will use two zones with EOL resistors, and with the Omni Pro II, its all or nothing.
drvnbysound
Senior Member
ano said:
Sounds like a lot of extra work to me... to really only have (2) EOL zones implemented correctly.
Honestly, I wired mine in the panel, but if I were to do it again I'd take them out - I soldered them in... no idea what I was thinking. Apparently I wasn't!
And also a huge code violation.ano said:
Wiring, installed in a plenum would need to be plenum rated or in conduit. The siren would also need to be plenum rated. In a fire, both the cable and siren would burn and spread through the air handler with the fan on. Very bad/poor idea no matter what the intent or result is.
For those that say it'd never happen or XYZ would inform me otherwise or there's worse in the house during a fire, I've had system components catch fire with a lightning hit or a couple times when the utility company hit HV 480 to the phone lines overhead or conduits hit underground.
Without seeing the install, you might still have a "panned" bay or one sealed off by the sheetrock and some pooky. Still might not be compliant if this is the case. Most filter housings are just metal rings set on either the return that is panned (typical) or minimal ductwork.ano said:
Something I'd stress that is a bad idea all around, especially if put out there for a DIY'er with minimal construction knowledge. Would be easier to just suggest putting recessed/flush speakers in, or if you really wanted to be slick, put in some 25/50/70V units, tap them accordingly and put in a Viking and feed that off the M1. Cheaper than a TWA (albeit at the cost of integrated system control)>
