problems with X10 signal

A

albright_family

Member
I don't know if this is the correct thread to post this in, but anywho

I am using Homeseer v2 with the PowerLinc 1132U and CM19A interfaces. I also have a X10 mini-controller (bought from Radioshack). From the same outlet, I can control a certain light with the mini-controller but for whatever reason the 1132U will not control that light. Any suggestions as to why this happens? (Once I get paid in a few weeks, I will get a Circuit Breaker finder and a X10 signal anayzler)

Thanks for the great forum, and all of the help that is currently provided here on CocoonTech

BTW, my current setup includes:
1 - Airpanel v110
1 - Airpanel 100 (probably going to return, if I can't find a network card for it)
1 - Smarthome 1132U interface
1 - CM19A interface
10 - standard X10 wall switches
4 - X10 lamp modules
5 - appliance modules
2 - Smarthome 23895w switches (florescent light switches)
3 - X10 low-light wireless cameras (which suck!!!)
1 - X10 instant on wireless camera (never paid for it, they sent it to me by mistake)
1 - VCR Commander (still in its box never used)
8 - motion sensors
1 - USB Video thingy (is that proper terminology :) )
1 - video only wireless receiver
1 - video/audio wireless receiver
and probably a few extra things that I can't think of right now

Homeseer v2
Mainlobby with
- Weblobby
 
Ok here is a few tips...

#1 Plug the Powerlinc in an outlet that is at least 15 feet away from the computer (I used a long extenstion cord).

#2 Most UPS's will suck up X10 signals. Other items that can be bad are PC & TVs as well as those surge protection power strips.

#3 If you do not have a coupler/repeater then get one installed. You will never have a good X10 setup without it.

One of the things you can do (what I did) is to go and unplug everything except the X10 devices and try it. The meter will help bigtime. But without the coupler/repeater you are chasing your tail.

http://www.automatedoutlet.com/home.php?cat=42

If you find a device that is sucking your X10 signal then use a filter on it. I have several filters in my house.

http://www.automatedoutlet.com/home.php?cat=43

John
 
Curious, do you have the mini-controller plugged into the same outlet as the 1132u? Does the mini-controller from Rat Shack have an light that is on all the time?

Reason I ask is because I found that certain mini-controllers from "Stanley" (which have a light on all the time) were actually X-10 signal suckers themselves (verified this with an X-10 signal strength meter). Try unplugging the mini-controller from the outlet and see what happens.
 
How about a little more info about my situation. I live in an 2 bed/ 2 bath 950sq ft apartment. It does not have a dryer (for the plugin coupler/repeater). Question, will the plugin version of the coupler/repeater that is meant for a dryer work for an electric stove? I know our stove has a funky outlet I think the same as some dryers.

I do not have a UPS, and when I get home, I am going to order the X10 signal meter thingy. (Yeah, sound all scientific now, don't I :) ) The Rat Shack mini-controller has an LED but it only turns on when the device is transmitting something. I have done what you said, running the commands off of the 1132U interface without the Rat Shack mini-controller plugged in, no go for that light, but if I unplug the interface and plug in the mini-controller (or heck even plug the mini-controller into the Always on plug of the 1132U interface), botta-bing-botta-boom the light will function. Is there a booster that I can plug directly into the 1132U that will boost its signal a bit?

Thanks all, BTW, I am looking for some better wireless cameras (including infrared ones) and also looking for some soft-start wall switches. any suggestions?

again thanks
 
You might be able to use that stove coupler repeater... I would check the amperage out to make sure you won't melt down. Without a coupler/repeater the X10 signal will not cross over to the 'other' 110V side of your 220 line. I doubt any signal booster would help if you have bad suckers or interference in the lines.

John
 
jwilson56 said:
You might be able to use that stove coupler repeater... I would check the amperage out to make sure you won't melt down. Without a coupler/repeater the X10 signal will not cross over to the 'other' 110V side of your 220 line. I doubt any signal booster would help if you have bad suckers or interference in the lines.

John
Click to expand...
Well in our little apartment, I have not had any problems reaching outlets except for those couple of lights/outlets on one side of our master bedroom. Every other light/outlet responds quite quickly. I think, for the time being, I am going to try using a BoosterLinc (which I just ordered, should arrive on Friday) and place it on the side of the master bedroom that is receiving X10 signals, and see if that applifies the signal enough to get those 3 lights to work (vanity light, Master bedroom bathroom light, & closet light). Will let you all know

Thanks for the quick response.

And besides pulling out the stove and checking all of that is a REAL adventure in this apartment. I already tried pulling it out, and it took me nearly 35 minutes just to back it out enough to plug the darn thing in (and that took a lot of acrobatics to get done, let me tell you. :) :D :ph34r: )

Besides our stove has been messing up, and I don't wish to fry one of my latest toys.
 
A quick test (from what I have heard) is to turn on the oven and then test the lights that are not working. With the 220V oven element 'on' it will pass the X10 signals to the other phase. If it works with the oven on and not when the oven is off then you need a coupler for sure.

John
 
Phase issues can be a nightmare in multi-family housing, since you share a transformer with at least everyone in your building and sometimes everyone in your complex! For a signal to get from one phase to another, it has to travel all the way back to the transformer and back again, and there might be a bunch of noisy or signal-sucking electronics along the way. It does not surprise me that a computer controller can't reach the same device a minicontroller can. For some reason, those things put out quite a bit stronger a signal than the cm11a, cm15a or 1132cu.

If the Boosterlinc doesn't fix things, and if you don't have a good way to install a phase coupler, you could try to link phases via RF the way Active Home Pro does. Plug a Firecracker transmitter into your Homeseer PC and create macros that send a radio signal via the Firecracker to any devices on the "other" phase. Then plug in a TM751 RF tranceiver somewhere on that second phase. It's not pretty, and it's not fast, but it works!

Tom
 
A quick test (from what I have heard) is to turn on the oven and then test the lights that are not working. With the 220V oven element 'on' it will pass the X10 signals to the other phase. If it works with the oven on and not when the oven is off then you need a coupler for sure.
Click to expand...
Okay I just tried this (with the oven element on only, the stove element on only, and then both), it is a no go

Phase issues can be a nightmare in multi-family housing
Click to expand...
I'll say, I just removed the cover of our circuit breaker panel, and I was shocked at what I found. Ok not really, but I got 2 really thick cables on one phase going to my AC unit (which convienently resides on the roof of this building :p no tampering with that puppy) And was looking at the insides of the circuit breaker box, which DOES NOT have a main shutoff for that particular box :p :angry: :angry: :angry:

Also, I noticied that all of the devices that I had currently set up to be controlled (I only have about 65% hooked up, I have been really busy lately) are all on the same phase, the bathroom light appears to be on the other phase. (A Big Homer DOUH!!! here) The boosterlinc did not seem to help much getting stuff over to the second phase. And I am not sure how the apartment manager would respond to me installing a phase coupler at the electrical panel (even being neat and all, their is those pesky liability issues to worry about). Is there an easy way to install a capacitor into the electrical box that will bridge the signal locally at the box. I have heard of several people who use this, but I am not sure how it is physically installed. (or is this no longer a recommend option.

Another question, I thought 240V appliances would have a breaker on both phases because it requires 240V (120V + 120V = 240V). How the AC unit is rigged is both breakers are on one phase, and both breakers for the range (2 breakers) are rigged on the other phase. How does that work? If it ain't obvious yet, I am NOT an electrician, please don't ask, I'd probably end up blowing up your house. (that was meant to be a joke)

Thoughts suggestions would be nice

And thanks in advance
 
Your phases are vertical in the box, not left and right.

Stating at the top going down, A B A B A B etc. on each side

Thats why you see a double breaker controlling a 240 volt device.


If you do not have a main power cut off to the box, and you are not knowledgeable / comfortable working with electrical panels, you might want to consider getting professional assistance.


Good Luck with your project
 
fitzpatri8 said:
If the Boosterlinc doesn't fix things, and if you don't have a good way to install a phase coupler, you could try to link phases via RF the way Active Home Pro does. Plug a Firecracker transmitter into your Homeseer PC and create macros that send a radio signal via the Firecracker to any devices on the "other" phase. Then plug in a TM751 RF tranceiver somewhere on that second phase. It's not pretty, and it's not fast, but it works!

Tom
Click to expand...
Ok how do I do this?? I am unsure how to do this kind of macro programming inside Homeseer

Thank you

(BTW, I do have a TM751 RF tranceiver now plugged in on the opposite phase)
 
I would also say use a higher voltage cap. I used a .1 that was designed for an AC Line type. A 600 volt should also do. Some make the bridge tuned by also using a inductor in series with the cap. I believe it is 18 microhenries. Not 100% on the inductor value.
 
BLH said:
I would also say use a higher voltage cap. I used a .1 that was designed for an AC Line type. A 600 volt should also do. Some make the bridge tuned by also using a inductor in series with the cap. I believe it is 18 microhenries. Not 100% on the inductor value.
Click to expand...
Is there a brick and mortar building that I can buy this from?
 
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