Rough-in wiring for blinds, etc.

[Ira]

The Wiring Guide says "Run 22/4 security wire or CAT-5E, and 18/2 zip cord..." to each window. I plan on using DC motors (no window larger than 6'x6'), so is 16/4 for power and cat6 for control good enough? Longest run will be almost 100 feet. will this handle shades, blinds, and drapes, including maybe blinds (or shades) and drapes at the same window, or do I need to double up if doing that?
 
Thanks,
Ira

 

[kurtmccaslin]

I have Hunter Douglas power-rise in my house.   They recommended 14/2 for runs for up to 100 feet.    I would not run zip cord, as it is not rated for in-wall use.   I used CL2 speaker wire.   My blinds have wireless controls, so I did not run the control wire.  After I installed the first batch of shades, I ended up installing a few more-- this time as a retrofit.   Pulling the wire through an outside wall and fishing it in the attic was not an easy job.   I suggest you run the wires at least to the attic if there is even a remote chance that you will want to automate the blinds.

 

[drvnbysound]

I have Hunter Douglas power-rise in my house.   They recommended 14/2 for runs for up to 100 feet.    I would not run zip cord, as it is not rated for in-wall use.   I used CL2 speaker wire.   My blinds have wireless controls, so I did not run the control wire.  After I installed the first batch of shades, I ended up installing a few more-- this time as a retrofit.   Pulling the wire through an outside wall and fishing it in the attic was not an easy job.   I suggest you run the wires at least to the attic if there is even a remote chance that you will want to automate the blinds.

 
How would you trim that out [on the inside], if you didn't plan to install the blinds?

 

[Del91574]

I have Hunter Douglas power-rise in my house.   They recommended 14/2 for runs for up to 100 feet.    I would not run zip cord, as it is not rated for in-wall use.   I used CL2 speaker wire.   My blinds have wireless controls, so I did not run the control wire.  After I installed the first batch of shades, I ended up installing a few more-- this time as a retrofit.   Pulling the wire through an outside wall and fishing it in the attic was not an easy job.   I suggest you run the wires at least to the attic if there is even a remote chance that you will want to automate the blinds.

There is nothing prohibiting zip cord from being used in wall for LV. As long as it's labelled with the appropriate classification, it's legal.

 

[kurtmccaslin]

How would you trim that out [on the inside], if you didn't plan to install the blinds?

 
   You can drill a hole vertically through the window header and leave a small loop hanging out.   Then hide the loop behind the header for the window covering (either electric or manual).    For me that was easy because I have 2x6 walls with plenty of space behind the blinds header.   Seems like you could make it work with standard 2x4 construction, but I have not done it.

 

[drvnbysound]

   You can drill a hole vertically through the window header and leave a small loop hanging out.   Then hide the loop behind the header for the window covering (either electric or manual).    For me that was easy because I have 2x6 walls with plenty of space behind the blinds header.   Seems like you could make it work with standard 2x4 construction, but I have not done it.

 
Understood. I suppose my concern would be with the loop - having non-terminated cabling and what an AHJ would say about it... particularly as part of the final inspection.

 

[kurtmccaslin]

I live in a rural area and the only thing that the AHJ was interested in was the septic system.   I guess that would vary significantly by location.