Keypads:
* i am removing some old 4-wire ademco keypads and replacing with ELK kp2's. splicing to the red, green, black and wires on the flying leads was easy enough. however, i am not sure what to do with the brown and blue leads. i don't have any sensors hooked up to the kp2's...maybe in the future but not right now. all i did was to cap the ends of the blue and brown flying leads so they don't cause a short. is this the right thing to do?
* included with the kp's were a blue resistor and a jumper. my best read of the schematics is that these are only used when the blue and brown leads are in use. based on my decision above, the resister and the jumper are still in the the plastic ziploc bag. should i have installed them somewhere?
How many keypads are you going to have? Reusing your 2 pair cable is fine, but you should not have more than 2 branches coming off the controller. If you have several keypads home run, plus expanders, etc, I would suggest you use the retrofit hub, M1DBHR which will give you 4 separate managed RS485 branches. The jumper is for termination. The last device on the RS485 chain at each end need to be terminated. If the kpd is the last device, it needs the jumper. Everything else you did is ok.
* my existing wiring consists of 2-wire runs from doors and glassbreaks...red and white. for all of the doors there is a resister (Gold, Red, Black, Red) in series on the red wire. once again, some basic questions:
* i have not checked for continuity yet (will do after work) but i am assuming that the door contacts are N.C. contacts in which case i will need to use the 2200 Ohm resistors included with the M1. my question is on which wire do i install the 2200 Ohm resister...red or black? is splicing the resistor in series just before connecting to the M1 (as was done by the professional installer in my current install) the right place to do this? the installation manual seemed to indicate that the resistor might need to be placed close to the contact. its not clear to me why that would be the case, but i ask so that i don't mess something up.
* when looking at the schematic for zone connections it appears that Zone 1 is drawn differently (capacitor?) than are all the other zones. does this means something? is zone 1 different from other zones? should i wire up zone 1 differently than zones 2-16?
* when connecting N.C. zone relays to the M1 does it matter which wire is used as the negative wire (red or black) as long as i am consistent?
* is wiring in a glassbreak any different than a door contact?
* are glassbreaks typcially N.O. or N.C.?
My opinion is if the existing resistor is at the panel side, just chuck them and program the M1 as normally closed and no EOL. If the resistor is at the contact, you will need to replace it with the 2.2K You can search here for 'EOL' and will find ALOT of discussion on pros/cons. Bottom line is EOL means End Of Line, which is the contact. It is there so the system can detect a short in the line between contact and panel. Use red as your zone + wire and white as neg (just makes more sense).
Not aware of any diff in Zone 1. 1-16 are the only ones that support analog and 16 is the only zone that supports 2 wire smokes. No diff in Zone 1 from what I know.
No, doesn't matter, but typical red is + and black is -. I would follow 'standards' in case someone else ever has to work on system.
Yes, a glassbreak has 2 additional wires, for power. So, there are 2 zone wires which is just like a contact, and 2 power wires which go to VAux on panel.
Doesn't really matter, M1 can be programmed for several different definitions including NO, NC and EOL. So simple program the zone for whatever your device actually is.
Late edit: Major typo
There can be a conflict between the garage door controller output voltage and the M1's output voltage.
