Scoping out an ELK M1G install

[davefred99]

Dave, thanks for the pointer. I put in this rule (the custom time is 9:30p)

but no joy. thoughts on where my code should be changed?

What i am looking for is when the door opens during a certain time period, the doors chimes. Conversely, i want it not to chime during that block of time when i leave the house before everyone else is awake.

Maybe you need to write 2 rules one to turn on the chime at (wenever yu choose) and another to turn it back off at your chosen time. ??
just an Idea

I dis something similar to have a a zone bypassed for 10 min so I could let the dog out and unbypass afterwords.
I used a door bell connected to a zone input set as a non alarm zone. I had to use a dummy x10 switch to do it though.

 

[gacevich]

this falls cleanly into this thread only because i am trying to contain all of my elk setup topics into one thread...but it has nothing to do with programming ELKRP, which i am still interested in figuring out. the below is from a post i have on the cqc forum, but it seems that this would also be an appropriate topic here on CT.

having installed my elk, finished wiring of all my russound zones and having the viking slp in hand, i am ready to undertake the final wiring. as a picture is often worth a thousand words, below is an illustration of the wiring i am trying to accomplish. but before i hook everything up and destroy some equipment, i thought i would ask for feedback on my plan. My concerns are in lower left of the illustration, but to lay them out again:

Does it matter the order that the twisted pair takes? Viking or M1 first?
Can multiple triggers be wired to the same 12v trigger input on the CAV?
Can multiple audio inputs be wired to single paging input on CAV?

one bit of functionality i forgot to mention is that i would like the doorbell to be a zone on the M1 which then can send a 12v trigger to the CAV so that a cqc .wav file can play. cqc would sense the need to play a .wav file via the cqc-elk driver.

i am pretty sure that i can get each of the desired bits of functionality to occur in my system on a standalone basis. my concern is getting them all hooked up at the same time into the CAV.

thoughts appreciated

to give a little more color on what i am looking to do, here is a follow up comment i made on the cqc forum.

based on testing i have done, i have experienced the same "clipping" of audio on the cav. its only when there is a 12v trigger present that the audio plays cleanly. my plan is to use one of the 12v outputs on the ELK, triggered to the doorbell, and timed to the length of a wav file to be played from cqc. this should give me a personalized doorbell ring. additionally, i want to do caller id announcements when the phone rings and i am planning to similarly use an elk output trigger so the .wav file from cqc does not get clipped.

the way i look at it, its the viking that is the least used piece of equipment. it will be used almost exclusively for paging.

i'll let u know how it turns out after i get it all hooked up...assuming someone doesn't chime in (pun intended) with a reason not to hook up the multiple audio inputs and 12v triggers to the CAV.

 

[euphline]

Responding to an old piece of the thread...

As described in some previous threads you can also then get the ELK to announce when the garage door is open and program other keypads throughout the house to close the door when a swirtch is pushed. That way you can close the garage door without having to go to the garage. I prefer not to have the garage door automatically close itself since I don't want it to close on me if I am working in there.

For safety purposes, folks should remember ...

No electronically controlled door or gate should ever "automatically" close. It should only do so based on human intervention from a controller with line of sight to the door. No keypad in a location w/o line of sight to the door / gate should be able to close it.

Of course, a surveillance camera can be used to provide line of sight where it might not otherwise exist.

-jbn

 

[AO-Brandon]

I typically use flags to enable and disable the chime / speech commands, below is an example of how I would handle this:

Whenever time is equal to (7am)
~ Then set output (x) to ON

Whenever time is equal to (5pm)
~ Then set output (x) to OFF

Whenever input zone (Y) becomes not secure
> And output (x) state is ON
~ Then set chime to DING ONLY in (AREA 1)

Replace x with the output number you wish to use as a flag, typically x>100 just to avoid a conflict with a future relay.
Replace Y with the number of a zone that you wish to use as the trigger.

-Brandon

 

[gacevich]

thanks brandon. it seems that my system is most sensitive to the "No Chime" box for each kepad. should the "No Chime" box for each keypad be checked or unchecked? when i have them unchecked the chime comes on regardless of my Rules, and when the No Chime box is checked the chime never comes on regardless of my Rules. can the chime be made to come on only during certain hours? am i barking up the wrong tree? or, hopefully, just a victim of my poor ELKRP Rules writing skills.

 

[gacevich]

this seemingly simple rule is kicking my butt. but, in a dogged pursuit of an ELKRP rule that does what i want, i was lucky enough to have a cocconer pm me with their code for controlling the chime. its simplicty brought a crimson shade of embarassment to my face...just turn the chime on and off at the desired time. why didn't i think of that. i adjusted PM'd rule slightly to reflect the timing that i desire. my code is:

Whenever the time is CHIMEONTIME (this will fire every minute during the ChimeOn hour)
Then set chime to Ding only in (Area 1)

Whenever the time is CHIMEOFFTIME
Then disable chime

CHIMEONTIME and CHIMEOFFTIME are custom variables.

using this code i two unexpected responses. first, i flipped the order to test yesterday evening. that is, i did chime on then chime off. i set the chimeon time for 6p and the chime "dinged" each minute on the minute during the 6 o'clock hour...just like the phrase in parenthesis says when programming with the "whenever the time is...". i would like for the chime not to occur 60 times during the first hour that i turn it on. how does one avoid the chime every minute?

Second, i flipped the programming back to the above before i went to bed last night so that the chime would go off at 4am and comes back on at 7a. i did this about 9p last night at which time the chime did not "chime" (i assume because a "chimeontime" command had not been executed). then much to my surprise, and my wife's dismay, the chime started occuring at midnight, then 12:01, and finally at 12:02 by which time i had been not so gently awoken to turn off the #*@ing chime. let me assure u that this does not increase the waf. how does one avoid the "midnight chime"?

thanks your help.

 

[gacevich]

solved my chime problem by selecting "Time is" vs. "Hour is". nice simple fix, just the way i like it.

now, i would like to have ChimeONTime on the Weekends to be different from M-F. Did not see a Whenever rule option to specify day of the week. is it possible to have specific rules for certain days of the week? if so, how might i do this?

 

[Steve]

now, i would like to have ChimeONTime on the Weekends to be different from M-F. Did not see a Whenever rule option to specify day of the week. is it possible to have specific rules for certain days of the week? if so, how might i do this?

Yea, I'll give ya that's one of the tricky ones .The trick is that the day of week is only available in an 'AND' condition. So you do you main Whenever condition then choose AND, and then you will get a 'Date is...' option and you can choose specific days of the week.

As an example, for my irrigation, I have Whenever time is x AND Day of the week is y and z...

 

[gacevich]

thanks, steve. here is what i am trying out

WHENEVER THE TIME IS CHIMEONTIMEMTWTF
AND THE DAY(S) OF TEH WEEK IS/ARE -MTWTF-
THEN SET CHIME TO DING ONLY
WHENEVER THE TIME IS CHIMEONWKND
AND THE DAY(S) OF THE WEEK IS/ARE -SATSUN-
THEN SET CHIME TO DING ONLY

 

[gacevich]

ran into two issues after cleaning up the wiring in my system. in order to clean up the wiring i had to power down everything. then re-installed all components.

the first issue is that i am getting is a phone fault with the M1G. the telco seized light comes on when the M1G is powered up and it will not go off. the telco stays seized even if the removable jack is not plugged into the M1G (i.e., the phone is not connected to the M1G). i have had to remove the jack from the rj-31x to the M1G so that phone is not seized. with the M1G disconnected from the RJ31x, my phone works fine. any ideas why the telco is staying seized on the M1G (manual only says that this happens when phone line is bad).

second issue: trying to reconnect my aprilaire 8870's. i got them to work prior to redoing the wiring in my swb's. now that i am trying to re-enable them, i get the following behavior. Only one of my two 8870's will enable, as denoted via the keypad. when enabled, the correct temperature will read out but neither the economy nor the custom temp settings will kick in. the other thermostat will read "not enabled". i play around with double checking that the settings are correct on each 8870 (e.g., correct address, # of stats on network, etc) and power up and down, enable the M1DBHR bus and i will sometimes get a swap in which 8870 is enabled. unfortunately, i can't get them to both enable at the same time. any thoughts?

 

[gacevich]

now that all my gear is filling up structured wiring boxes one of the things i am trying to figure out is what is the most efficient may to put all the elk circuit boards i am accumulating in the swb. the two ways that seem to be the most popular are:

1: stacking using separaters such as these . the downside seems to be that all the cards need be the same (or nearly the same) shape and size.

2: or the ELK-SWB circuit board guides.

curious to know the experience of those who are facing same issue. what solution do u prefer?

 

[Steve]

I personally do not like the glides. In fact you could have issues with wiring as the wires will be close to the front cover and may get bend if not secured right. OTOH, you can cram alot of cards in the can this way. If laid out carefully, I think you can get alot in the can by mounting cards to backplates like the Channel Vision C-308 (going off memory). If still tight, I would then probably stack like cards like serial expanders with the standoffs they way electron 'invented'. Or, is it possible to add another can? That's why I always say these cans are like hard drives and fill up quickly and always buy bigger or more than you think you will need - you will use it...

 

[gacevich]

thanks, steve. i wondered about the glides for the same reason. i have been consistently amazed at how much thought has gone in to the elk product design. when putting components together it seems they have that little extra touch that makes sense after u use the product.

i hear u on putting in another can. i had a second 42" can put in when i decided to install the elk. now i wonder where all the space went.

 

[gacevich]

Stumped again on programming issue.

I just installed a magnetic sensor on my garage door (Zone 11) that is closed (short) when the garage door is closed. I would like the F1 key on the keypad to blink when the door is open. I went to the Keypad in ELKRP and set F1 Activates Event to Automation Task 04 (which opens/closes) the door. Then set Illumination Event to 4011 = Zone 11 State. Finally, I checked "Blink Light". All this and my light does not blink. I think my Illumination Event is set incorrectly but i can't figure out what i should set it to so that it blinks when Zone 11 is violated (door open). Any help in pointing me in the right direction is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Steve]

The illumination even is set the same as mine and that works. Does the light ever blink at all (door closed OR open)?