securing wires and gang boxes question

[upstatemike]

I don't know how many wires will fit into a 1 inch hole but if it is not enough the answer is probably not to make a bigger hole but instead make more holes. Somewhere there is a spec for the largest hole you can make in a 2X4 before you impact its structural integrity. Not sure what that size is but it might be worth finding out before you start drilling. I think there are also rules about how much space you need to have between holes along a board, etc. And of couse avoid drilling through anything designated as a doorway header or support beam at all.

 

[pkoslow]

Too expensive for in-wall use. Use Bridle Rings like these.

Here's another twist on the rings commonly referred to as "drive rings" and used a lot by the telco guys.

http://www.phonegeeks.com/drivrinforat.html

Easy to hammer in... I use these a lot to route and suspend wires in basements and attics, but not so much inside walls.

PK

 

[upstatemike]

I tried these but found the loop part could be knocked loose from the shaft part a little too easily. In the end I was happier with the bridle rings.

 

[bfisher]

Check out my cocoon link (in my signature line below). Scroll down to the 5th picture - favorite tools. I use the 3/4" conduit bracket - and love them. Very easy to install, easy to pull wires through, and keeps things very neat and tidy.

My problem with using tiewraps is if I want to add another wire, I have to rewrap all the wires. With these conduit brackets - just pull it through and it's nice and clean.

Buy them in bulk at Lowes or Home Depot.

 

[upstatemike]

I forgot about those... used them on a bundle of video cables running through the garage. Best feature is, if the bundle gets to be larger than you expect it is easy to take them off and replace them with a larger size without disturbing the cables already in place. Also cheap and available everywhere!

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Quite cool guys!

Oh, back on Arrow T59 , I went to Lowes, Menards and Ace Hardware, they don't carry it. I have an Arrow T50. I think, I can just buy a curved staple. Would that work?

 

[upstatemike]

Quite cool guys!

Oh, back on Arrow T59 , I went to Lowes, Menards and Ace Hardware, they don't carry it. I have an Arrow T50. I think, I can just buy a curved staple. Would that work?

No. A T50 shoots flat staples only. You need a T25 for curved cable staples or a T59 (not common) for insulated stapeles.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Check out my cocoon link (in my signature line below). Scroll down to the 5th picture - favorite tools. I use the 3/4" conduit bracket - and love them. Very easy to install, easy to pull wires through, and keeps things very neat and tidy.

My problem with using tiewraps is if I want to add another wire, I have to rewrap all the wires. With these conduit brackets - just pull it through and it's nice and clean.

Buy them in bulk at Lowes or Home Depot.

I bought 2 bags of 3/4" conduit brackets today and a 1" inch Irwin auger bit for $6. Glad, Menards is on sale. Regular was $11+. However, they don't have those 18" long auger bits. There is another brand but I think, it's weak. It's a 16" long auger bit and brand is Tool Shop. It's really cheap, around $14-$17 only. I'm worried though.

 

[Photon]

I like to use hammer-driven staples intended for securing A/C electrical power wires. Some have bare "heads" and some have plastic. Either work fine. All are really inexpensive.

I drive one loosely into a stud or joist, and then I attach the wires with nylon wire ties. There is plenty of length on the staple head to have several bundles, each secured with its own wire tie.

They can be used directly to secure several cat5 etc, but then you have to pull the entire length through to change routing or whatever. Just use caution if driving the staple over the wire not to deform the wire.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

ok guys, back to gang boxes. Attached is the image and the location where I want to put a 2/3 or 4 gangbox. However, if you look at both sides of the preferred location, it's high voltage. Would that location be bad for keypads, volume control, etc?

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Holy Cow! All of your AC wiring is in conduit?!?! Is this a home or a commercial business? Just wondering what warrants all that expense.

As far as your location, the conduit will act as a shield and I believe that location will work out fine for you.

 

[tuantu]

I believe Chicago requires nothing less than conduit, no romex.

Someone in that area can correct me.

Please tell us what city or state you're in.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Holy Cow! All of your AC wiring is in conduit?!?! Is this a home or a commercial business? Just wondering what warrants all that expense.

As far as your location, the conduit will act as a shield and I believe that location will work out fine for you.

Hi BSR,

It's residential. I have no idea about the conduit. I had an impression that AC should always be inside a conduit. But am very happy that I can put it there. Thanks buddy!!! :lol:

Would that mean that if there is a case that I will have to drop a lowvoltage line parallel to the conduits, I'm safe? What is the minimum distance that I should watch out for?

Neil

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I believe Chicago requires nothing less than conduit, no romex.

Someone in that area can correct me.

Please tell us what city or state you're in.

The new house is in Huntley, about 40 miles west of Chicago.

 

[upstatemike]

First, I want to say that all AC wiring should be in conduit (or BX) in my opinion. That is what I would do if I was building a new house.

Second, If your AC is in conduit there are NO restrictions about proximity to low voltage. You can tie wrap your low voltage wires to the conduit if you want!

Third, I can't view your picture (I just have a red x where the thumbnail should be). It is probably a setting in my browser but I'm not sure where to look. Anybody have an idea what it could be?