So I discovered that the double gang box in my bathroom isn't big enough for 2 HAI UPB dimmers. The edges of the box are rounded and the outside of the dimmers hit. I can squeeze 1 in with a regular decora switch.... but not both. Does anyone know of a very narrow UPB dimmer (I guess it could be Z-Wave too if necessary) that has a blue LED like the HAI dimmer?
Size Matters! (UPB Switches)
- Thread starter nexus99
- Start date
tmbrown97
Senior Member
nexus,
To expand on JonW's comment - Many of us have encountered a situation where we had to expand a box or change something (deeper box, etc); in lot of cases, it's actually pretty easy to work the old box out then widen it as needed; then replace it with an "old work" box. A search on here would likely show some examples. That way, depending on your wall, you can probably get a deeper or roomier box in there.
With the UPB dimmers, they like more space anyways to breath. It's best not to cram them together - it tends to lower the rated capacity.
To expand on JonW's comment - Many of us have encountered a situation where we had to expand a box or change something (deeper box, etc); in lot of cases, it's actually pretty easy to work the old box out then widen it as needed; then replace it with an "old work" box. A search on here would likely show some examples. That way, depending on your wall, you can probably get a deeper or roomier box in there.
With the UPB dimmers, they like more space anyways to breath. It's best not to cram them together - it tends to lower the rated capacity.
nightwalker
Active Member
I agree with everyone else, popping a new larger retrofit box in is pretty simple and will make your life much easier.
Once you've done it once you'll find yourself just doing it as a matter of course as it's much easier to put in switches. I hate those tiny boxes electricians put in.
Once you've done it once you'll find yourself just doing it as a matter of course as it's much easier to put in switches. I hate those tiny boxes electricians put in.
drozwood90
Senior Member
Could use the SAI US22-40.
It's a single switch that will handle 2 separate loads.
--Dan
It's a single switch that will handle 2 separate loads.
--Dan
Do both switches have to be dimmers?
If you used 1 dimmer and a relay unit you would have a better chance of getting them into the box (and you wouldn't need to derate the wattage).
Bathrooms are one of the few places that I use CFL's and relay switches. I can't stand waking up at 4:00 AM and feeling the heat rolling off a bathroom strip light (incandescent) while I'm shaving. CFL's provide excellent bright (white) light for shaving and my better half's makeup needs. She has many "requirements" for the lighting in the various rooms of the house. Fortunately, mood lighting in the bathroom isn't one of them.
If you used 1 dimmer and a relay unit you would have a better chance of getting them into the box (and you wouldn't need to derate the wattage).
Bathrooms are one of the few places that I use CFL's and relay switches. I can't stand waking up at 4:00 AM and feeling the heat rolling off a bathroom strip light (incandescent) while I'm shaving. CFL's provide excellent bright (white) light for shaving and my better half's makeup needs. She has many "requirements" for the lighting in the various rooms of the house. Fortunately, mood lighting in the bathroom isn't one of them.
They don't have to be dimmers at all. Did you have a specific relay in mind?
Looks like I shot my mouth off without reading your post closely enough. I'd thought the heatsink was interfering. Your post indicates it's the body of the switch that's hitting the corner radius of the box. Switching to a HAI relay won't fix that (body size is the same). Switching to another brand might give you a more generous radius on the switch corner, but I'm not that familiar with the UPB line.
Just to be clear - these are 600W HAI UPB switches (4.1" x 1.75" x 1.45") - correct.
I've never had a problem fitting a 1.75" wide switch(s) into a box (plastic, composite, or metal). - depth yes, width no. If the interference is minor, and you have enough material in the corner, I might consider squaring the box corner up with a flat file. For the amount of work involved (sweat), it might be better to just dice out the old box and install a retrofit (as others have suggested).
Sorry for jumping without reading,
IM
Yes, that is the correct device. The boxes have roundish corners which clip the edges of one of the dimmers. So you can get one dimmer in (but the screw is all the way to the side of the hole in the dimmer) and the other dimmer clips the boxes on the top and bottom corner.
I am having the same problem, which made me temporarily stop my UPB installation. They can almost squeeze in, so I was thinking I may be able to trim off those curved edges on one or both sides to allow it to fit, then tape the edges the prevent anyone getting cut. As you can tell, I am also not inclined to replace the box. Wife is already annoyed with the amount of time I spend on this stuff. Having to do drywall repair and painting is going to put her over the edge. Luckily most of my switches are in 3-5 gang boxes
pete_c
Guru
Mostly have double gang boxes in the house (with conduit). (a few 3-4 gang boxes). When going from X-10 to Insteon I removed the mud plates and used "modifed" mud plates. The repairs to the wall after the "gang switch" cover hacks were time consuming.
I did do a modification of one dual gang box to two dual gang boxes in the garage. It was a PITA and I wouldn't spend the time to do another one.
The Insteon switches are still not a good fit. My work around was using a wall switch plate cover which was a bit deeper and larger.
For my UPB endeavor I may go to multiple circuit UPB switches like the one Dan mentioned above.
Attached is a picture of the 1 to 2 gang box modification I did.
I did do a modification of one dual gang box to two dual gang boxes in the garage. It was a PITA and I wouldn't spend the time to do another one.
The Insteon switches are still not a good fit. My work around was using a wall switch plate cover which was a bit deeper and larger.
For my UPB endeavor I may go to multiple circuit UPB switches like the one Dan mentioned above.
Attached is a picture of the 1 to 2 gang box modification I did.
pete_c
Guru
Looking in my dining room powerline Insteon switches yesterday. I have two gang boxes with two switches in each box. (both are set up as 3-way) on both sides of the dining room. Looks like I am going to attempt to put in two switches instead of one switch in each box. Personally the SAI US22-40 will not work for my environment relating to the migration from Insteon over to UPB. This is due to both aesthetics of the switch and WAF (plus house cleaning folks). I am going to have to do a "like for like" type of migration.
The 3rd dual gang box adjacent to the dining room controls the outside carriage front door lamps and mailbox lamp and it sits about 2-3 feet away from one of the dining room dual gang boxes.
The kitchen today has 5 dual gang boxes with 5 switches. This is another endeavor which will be addressed at a different time.
I don't have any powerline switches in any of the bathrooms but looking at the main floor guest bathroom I have three switches in a dual gang box. Two are 1/2 toggle switchs for the fan / light and the 3rd switch is for the lamps over the mirror. Here I would still go with most likely a single toggle switch and one dual toggle switch. A quick glance at the master bath and I see a 4 gang box plus a dual gang box and this doesn't include the hallway leading to the master bath switches in separate dual gang boxes. (another unique automation project in itself).
The 3rd dual gang box adjacent to the dining room controls the outside carriage front door lamps and mailbox lamp and it sits about 2-3 feet away from one of the dining room dual gang boxes.
The kitchen today has 5 dual gang boxes with 5 switches. This is another endeavor which will be addressed at a different time.
I don't have any powerline switches in any of the bathrooms but looking at the main floor guest bathroom I have three switches in a dual gang box. Two are 1/2 toggle switchs for the fan / light and the 3rd switch is for the lamps over the mirror. Here I would still go with most likely a single toggle switch and one dual toggle switch. A quick glance at the master bath and I see a 4 gang box plus a dual gang box and this doesn't include the hallway leading to the master bath switches in separate dual gang boxes. (another unique automation project in itself).
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