Special Brultech ECM-1220.H offer to cocoontech members.
- Thread starter Btech
- Start date
Steve
Senior Member
Look here. Normal Cat5 is not rated to be in the breaker panel. The proper way to do it is run the wires from the CT's out of the panel to an adjacent j-box. Splice your Cat5 or 22/4 in that jbox and run it to the ECM. The connection at that side is not as critical but a jbox there would make it nice and neat.
Skibum
Senior Member
You would have to be nuts to run Cat 5 to your breaker panel.
I have serious reservations about Steve's suggestion above as well..
IMHO the whole remote idea is flawed with this device.
The black box wireless unit should be at the Breaker Panel and transmit to the receiver with the display.
I have serious reservations about Steve's suggestion above as well..
IMHO the whole remote idea is flawed with this device.
The black box wireless unit should be at the Breaker Panel and transmit to the receiver with the display.
Steve
Senior Member
To inside the breaker panel, yes, you are right.
Good thing its' only a TED users opinion!
Would you care to explain that, because IM (and others) HO, the wired or wireless OPTIONS are one of the strong points of this device.My suggestion is simply BrulTech's documented way of doing it. As Paul from BrulTech states:
So, like I had stated and is documented, you MUST run the leads from the CT's (which ARE rated to be in the panel, same as yours) outside of the panel first to make your connection. I think this is a great way of doing it as long as you have the ability to run a wire there. It is safe and 100% reliable. Same reason hardwired lighting is more reliable than PLC or wireless.
The wireless Zigbee option is certainly an option if you can not run a wire. And if you feel safer that way then that's what I would use, but I feel confident in hardwire. Now, otoh, if you route the CT's wire out of the panel by twisting is around the bus bar or something then that could cause a problem if the insulation breaks, but I don't see an issue if the CT's are installed right and the wires properly routed out of the panel.
Skibum
Senior Member
Also, Steve, this diagram clearly shows a direct connection from the CT's to the display with no intermediary box.
http://brultech.com/HomeEnergy/homemodels.html#PLUG%20Style
Click the first wired device.
http://brultech.com/HomeEnergy/homemodels.html#PLUG%20Style
Click the first wired device.
Steve
Senior Member
I know, hence the emoticon
All opinions are valid! Just yours is wrong 
Correct! But note that diagram describes a direct connection from the CT to the display, no intermediary wiring. So, that assumes the display is close to the main panel where the CT leads will exit the panel and reach the display directly. You only need the j-box as a proper means to make a connection to extend the CT leads. Technically you can just connect the CT leads to the Cat5 or 22/2 in the wall but I do suggest a j-box.
And if this hardwire was a concern for you, so still have the wireless option which I bet would be easier than the TED with x10. I am not advocating you switch or anything as I'm sure the TED is a great device as well, I just wanted to be clear that I don't think the hardwire option is a negative at all and in fact I think it's safe and effective.
beelzerob
Senior Member
If I can paraphrase what each of you are saying, since it seems like you're missing each other and I hate for a 220V flame war to erupt...
Steve: Sure the CT's are directly connected to the display box, but if you WANTED to extend those CT cables so the display box could be placed a lot further away, then what you'd do is splice in some Cat5 to the CT cables in a separate box outside of the main breaker box. That way, no Cat5 is inside the box, and the CT cable inside the breaker box is rated to be safe in there. No worries.
Skibum: Even if you used super-heavy-duty rated cables from the planet krypton, I don't want my display to be directly wired in ANY WAY to the main power panel. I'd rather a transmitter sit there, and the thing that I actually touch receives the signal...so no direct wire connection of any kind.
I can see both sides.
Steve: Sure the CT's are directly connected to the display box, but if you WANTED to extend those CT cables so the display box could be placed a lot further away, then what you'd do is splice in some Cat5 to the CT cables in a separate box outside of the main breaker box. That way, no Cat5 is inside the box, and the CT cable inside the breaker box is rated to be safe in there. No worries.
Skibum: Even if you used super-heavy-duty rated cables from the planet krypton, I don't want my display to be directly wired in ANY WAY to the main power panel. I'd rather a transmitter sit there, and the thing that I actually touch receives the signal...so no direct wire connection of any kind.
I can see both sides.
Skibum
Senior Member
See Steve...Skibum right. Rob right. Steve in deep. ...
Oh wait... was that from that tropical storm???
No wars here Rob... were just havin a bit 'o fun
They do make CAT5 with insulation rated at 300V but I agree, use a juntion box outside of your panel for a neater job and to avoid removing the panel cover to troubleshoot a splice.
I am not sure what the AC voltage output is on these CT's, but usually either .333 VAC or 5VAC proportional to the AC current. I would assume they can be extended at least 100'. I have installed alot of Emon Demon meters that use 0-2VAC CT's and have extended them 300' in a single CAT5 cable with accurate results.
I like the Brultech concept and real time displays and would consider purchasing if they have an ethernet communication feature. If not, I would extend the CT's to my HA PC and connect locally.
Has anyone purchased and installed yet for some feedback?
Steve
Senior Member
See Steve...Skibum right. Rob right. Steve in deep. ...
Oh wait... was that from that tropical storm???
No wars here Rob... were just havin a bit 'o fun
See Ski... Steve right, Rob right and Will right. Turk says checkmate you lose
:lol: 
