splicing 18/4 - plumbers burnt through it

C

charliebarns

Active Member
I had a call this am from my plumber who burnt through 2 of my 18/4 wires. One feeds a LV smoke on the main floor, the second feed an occupancy sensory on the main floor (carries 24v). I'm wondering what peoples thoughts are on using b connectors to splice new wire in from the break point to the wiring closet? I'd rather not do this, however, the drywall is already up and taped! grrr.


thx

cb
 
Guess I don't understand the question exactly. If you're asking if butt splices are ok for splicing...that's what I used. Our trim guy sawed through some 22/4 wires for a window, and I had to splice 'em and tuck 'em back in the window frame.

All I can say is....all anger I might have had at him evaporated just because he TOLD me he did it, instead of me finding out (or NOT finding out) later.

sorry, I probably didn't help much.
 
beelzerob said:
Guess I don't understand the question exactly. If you're asking if butt splices are ok for splicing...that's what I used. Our trim guy sawed through some 22/4 wires for a window, and I had to splice 'em and tuck 'em back in the window frame.

All I can say is....all anger I might have had at him evaporated just because he TOLD me he did it, instead of me finding out (or NOT finding out) later.

sorry, I probably didn't help much.
Click to expand...


You're no help at all! ;) lol kidding. I guess I just want to know if it's safe/acceptable to splice from the broken point onwards to the wiring closet. Not the ideal situation but I don't know that ripping down a bunch of drywall will make anyone happy either...
 
Because the smokes are a life safety item, I'd be more inclined to pull a new run of firewire there. The occupancy sensor I wouldn't worry about splices at all. Honestly, the splices are going to be fine in 99.9999% of the cases, but even that 1 in a million is what makes me extra cautious and meticulous about my smokes and sirens. The rest of the touchscreens, lighting automation, etc is all nice-to-have, but anything that's "help my family escape a fire" gets no shortcuts.

Any chance you can pull a new run by taping them together, or is the run stapled behind the drywall?
 
Eventhough its life safety don't these smokes has local sounders anyway?

I'd splice them together, put the gell filled capps over them to prevetn deterioration. Write down somewhere what you did and why so if you ever get a problem with these wires you remember, stuff it back in the wall and don't worry about it.

Ofcourse do a test on the wires after they're tucked back in the wall. If they conduct fine and they're in the wall not much can happen to them from there.
 
I'm inclined to do the splice as opposed to running a new wire. It is stapled so the only way would be to pull the drywall down. The LV smokes are a secondary system in this house to the HV smokes. Maybe that's enough justification to rely on the splice. I'd love to bill the plumber on this one but...to err is human. Besides, I've got a bigger fight that's about to start next week with this builder, however he doesn't know that yet. He will once the structural engineer I've hired goes through the house. More on that topic later. I'll use the gel filled connectors. Thanks for the replies!


CB
 
charliebarns said:
I'm inclined to do the splice as opposed to running a new wire. . . .
Click to expand...

A compromise between a splice in the wall and a new line would be to do the splice in a j-box depending on where the box would have to be on the wall and how unsightly it would be. If you ever have a problem with that line, you'll always be able to check your splice rather than have a nagging feeling that something went wrong with the splice that's burried in the wall.
 
I agree with DavidL. Solder the splice connection and electrical tape it or use a Beanie insulating crimp connector for insulation.
 
I would first try and pull another wire. If that is unacceptable I agree with David L try and solder them using a western union type splice ( I assume you don't have alot of extra length and this type of splice maximizes contact area and minmizes extra length needed. google it for some pictures.) but if you can I would use heat shrink instead of just tape. If you use tape use the good stuff like scotch 33 not the x-brand stuff. If you do end up splicing it the best thing is to not bury the splice and as someelse suggested use a junction box or at least a LV mudring where if something were to happen you could get to the splice but a decent soldered joint in a house environment will last virtually forever or at least as long as you live in the house. ;)
 
MavRic said:
Structural engineer?? That doesnt sound good...

Do tell what happened...
Click to expand...


Well the drywallers just finished in the house. As they were leaving they said "We're not supposed to tell you this but your walls are terrible and your builder is trying to hide it from you. We've been told repeatedly not to mention it to you, but we can't leave the house without saying something". Upon further investigation not a single wall in the house is true. that is, 8 feet up the walls are 2" out (leaning). every single wall. They (builder) tried to blame it on frost heave and tells me they will straighten. I contracted an independent engineer who says "no way, those walls aren't coming back, it's poor framing". this is in a 2mil house, I'm pissed. they'll have to shim all the kitchen cupboards just to get them to sit right. I'm having the engineer through the house this coming week, and then meeting with my lawyer...

CB
 
charliebarns said:
MavRic said:
Structural engineer?? That doesnt sound good...

Do tell what happened...
Click to expand...


Well the drywallers just finished in the house. As they were leaving they said "We're not supposed to tell you this but your walls are terrible and your builder is trying to hide it from you. We've been told repeatedly not to mention it to you, but we can't leave the house without saying something". Upon further investigation not a single wall in the house is true. that is, 8 feet up the walls are 2" out (leaning). every single wall. They (builder) tried to blame it on frost heave and tells me they will straighten. I contracted an independent engineer who says "no way, those walls aren't coming back, it's poor framing". this is in a 2mil house, I'm pissed. they'll have to shim all the kitchen cupboards just to get them to sit right. I'm having the engineer through the house this coming week, and then meeting with my lawyer...

CB
Click to expand...

ouch, ..... keep us in the loop...
 
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