Structured Wiring Question

[ja3hawk]

Hello! I have a general question about structured wiring for a new home. I've been lurking for quite some time and just recently started posting.
 
My plan is to install a fairly large structured wiring box in a central location (probably unfinished section of basement). This will just future proof myself going forward. My question is this:
 
What is the standard for providing power to this location? Obviously the power distribution for the whole home will be in a separate traditional breaker box but I'm curious as to what circuits I should run to the structured wiring box? Two 15 amp circuits? Would that be enough to support any kind of power needs for a large system (4000 Sq ft and up)?
 
Is this even the right train of thought here? It looks like much of the home automation products generally get wired back to a location like this and it will need power.
 
Really I'm just looking for some standard myself and my builder can follow for pre-wiring and future proofing. (and wouldn't have issues with local residential codes) I haven't really gotten that far in that process yet since we are still acquiring land to build on! 

 

[electron]

It really depends on your needs, but 2 is reasonable.  If you are going to invest in a home automation platform which uses the powerline for communications, then you want a clean circuit for just the interface, and another one for regular power needs.  This is what I do myself, and haven't had a need for a 3rd circuit yet.

 

[ja3hawk]

It really depends on your needs, but 2 is reasonable.  If you are going to invest in a home automation platform which uses the powerline for communications, then you want a clean circuit for just the interface, and another one for regular power needs.  This is what I do myself, and haven't had a need for a 3rd circuit yet.

 
Good to know Dan! I can see my self putting in an M1 at some point and I want the infrastructure already in place.
 
Is cat5/6 effective for the majority of sensors/applications (motorized blinds, motion sensors, windows& door sensors) ? And should it be individually wired to each possible location back to the structured wiring box?
 
Is 14/2 romex over kill for these locations and should it also be wired back to the structured wiring box?
 
edit: I'm not clear if these items can be run in a circuit or if they each need their own run going back and forth between the location of the sensor and the structured wiring box. You can see why I'm looking for standards

 

[electron]

Check out the CocoonTech Wiring Guide if you haven't already (I'm in process of turning this data into a more presentable format), it covers many aspects of structured wiring.
 
CAT5 or better will definitely do the job for most projects, it's the duct tape of wire
 
I'm not understanding the romex questions (but am in a hurry, will check again later).

 

[wuench]

Cat5/6 should be home run to the can.   Some things like window/door sensors (22/2) can support multiple sensors on a run, if you want to group them.  Motions and other active sensors (22/4) should be home run.  
 
There are too many options for motorized blinds, you have to determine what you want to go with before you wire.  You generally need power and control.  Power can be high voltage or low, control can be a part of it if the power using relays or separate wires using low voltage, cat5, or wireless.   It all varies by vendor and solution.
 
Romex is only used/needed for high voltage runs.  14ga is probably fine for your 15amp circuits.

 

[ja3hawk]

Thanks for the responses. Here is my plan.
 
Home runs for every possible spot of cat5 and 22/4. Something like this for 22/4 http://www.homesecuritystore.com/p-1194-win-w4-250-burglar-alarm-wire-250ft-224-solid.aspx
I'm assuming the 22/4 is for power and not for communications in most applications? Sorry I know this should seem obvious...
 
Then I'll leave the romex 12/2 and 14/2 for the normal home powering of receptacles/switches/lights (z-wave). Should I consider running anything extra to those spots?
 
 
Last but not least, what is the accepted/smartest procedure for the wiring I don't use right away? Meaning, If I run wires to spots that will get covered up by drywall. Do people typically install boxes and just put blank plates on. I think for windows and door sensors this doesn't make a lot of sense but I want to be able to find them later. How is this typically handled. (keeping building codes in mind)
 
 
Wuench.. I'm checking out your website.. Very cool man. I might have some questions for you later on. I've built out a home theater room at my current house. It was my first go at it and I must say I'm happy with it but there are some things I'll do differently in my new home. (once we get to that point)

 

[Del91574]

For windows and doors, if you're not going to buy contacts for the openings, they make prewire plugs, but be sure your hole is drilled deep enough to facilitate a contact being installed...many times I've seen holes drilled too shallow.
 
As far as wiring for certain items, it may or may not be advisable to bury in the wall and fish out as needed or just mud ring and blank plate it, you need to determine what is best for your application and how many blank plates you want to see.

 

[wuench]

 
Wuench.. I'm checking out your website.. Very cool man. I might have some questions for you later on. I've built out a home theater room at my current house. It was my first go at it and I must say I'm happy with it but there are some things I'll do differently in my new home. (once we get to that point)

 
Thanks.  Yeah I have gotten a lot of use out of my theater, and it is a big hit for parties with Rock Band setup...
 
22/4 is for powered devices (motions, glass breaks, etc).  Basically they need 2 wires for the power and 2 wires for the contact closure.  Things like windows and door contacts are just contact closure so just 22/2. 

 

[pete_c]

Then I'll leave the romex 12/2 and 14/2 for the normal home powering of receptacles/switches/lights (z-wave). Should I consider running anything extra to those spots?

 
I had 12/3 and 14/3 run in new construction mostly (overkill I guess) but am using a few of those for legacy 3-way switches.
 
I used mud rings and blank covers for the speaker in wall and ceiling locations and audio control gang boxes next to room light switches.  These did have wires going to them.  I did the same for the additional RG-6 and Cat5e at the time. 
 
I never had an issue with the house passing final inspections post build and pre moving in. (Florida).  I also added runs on one side for satellite TV and the other exterior side for cable.