Transformer installation

What's the proper way to install an alarm panel transformer? My home run bundle and power receptacle are separated by a stud, so it's gonna be pretty difficult to run the wire behind the wall.

Is it OK to just run a plastic conduit down the surface of the wall from the panel to the transformer? I have been searching for a while now online and perusing the installation manual, not finding what I'm looking for.

Thank you!
 
Depending on the can you may be able to mount an electrical box on the bottom and plug the transformer in, in the can. But I think it is ok to run channel on the outside if that's what you want to do.
 
A picture would help tremendously... Any reason you can't drill the stud?

Sorry for the crap quality. A 100k image size results in this:
wall.jpeg

Anyway there's a stud between the home run bundle and the power outlet. I don't want to mess with high voltage wiring if I can help it. I.E. I don't want to add another high voltage receptacle or anything like that. So if I were to drill through the stud, where would the 4-conductor wire exit to make contact with the transformer? In the same junction box as the outlet? Just outside the outlet?

I just want to do it correctly enough to not break my back, but also so it's not a red light to any home inspectors.
 
It's fine if you aren't comfortable with HV, just run the LV wire out of the can and plug in the transformer, if you want to use chaseway that's fine too. I wouldn't bother trying to put the LV power wire in the wall.
 
What a lot of people do is run the wire inside the wall, but have it exit under the wall plate for the receptacle (just outside the junction box).

How do you plan to mount the alarm panel? Usually it'd be in a box of some sort - you could put that box so that half of it is on one side of the stud covering the hole that your wires are coming out of and half is on the same side of the stud-bay where there's power below.

You'd want to be really careful drilling that stud, because that's where the existing electrical runs down - it'd be easy to drill right into it.
 
I will probably straddle the stud when installing the panel. What's gonna be tricky is loosening the present wire from its loom and fishing it through down behind the power outlet. It may be more feasible to just run it on surface. Will running it on surface with plastic conduit violate any kind of inspection?
 
You can also run it exposed for the 2" that it'll take to get into the bay where you can fish it to your existing runs/drops.
 
Nope, power limited transformer, not line voltage (120 VAC) or flexible cordage. Article 725 specifically covers and allows this. Overcurrent device for the branch circuit and the transformer itself is either fused or PTC protected, which is a second overcurrent device.

Free air running the wiring is worse, nothing protecting the cabling from physical damage unless you install some sort of raceway.

No different than a transformer for a doorbell (barring it being hardwired directly to a HV feed within a box) or an intercom like an Aiphone or similar.
 
I'm not following what your understanding of a transformer for an alarm system vs. a wall wart for a different device, so feel free to clarify your statement.

Code doesn't differentiate between a plug in transformer and one that is mounted on a box spliced to line voltage conductors within a box....a transformer is a transformer. The only difference is how it connects to the line side of the feed, either via pigtail or plug in. You wouldn't be allowed to run something like a power whip carrying 120VAC from the plug within the wall to the load, such as 120VAC from a plug to a power supply that has a transformer inside, that's an example of a Class 1 power circuit (light and power)

Once the transformer is plugged in, no high voltage exists (no exposed plug, etc.) and the transformer is an inherently limited power source, Class 2, so exposed cabling is allowed within code, same with having splices and similar not being required to be within an electrical box or enclosure. The Class 1 circuit ends at the duplex recepticle and becomes a Class 2 (or even Class 3) load at that point and wiring methods and material requirements change at that point.

The only time you would not be allowed to run wiring for LV behind a wall would be if the cabling or assembly is not rated for in-wall usage, such as many wall warts, like those that come with consumer electronics, like a cell phone charger, cordless phone or similar.

Of consideration, in the case of LV lighting where a separate transformer is installed and connected to a HV feed, as long as the secondary side of the transformer meets the criteria for a Class 2 or Class 3 load, you can still run it concealed as long as the methods and materials are correct. Most people also seem to confuse what is allowed above a suspended ceiling or similar, as any flexible cordage being plugged into an outlet is viewed as temporary for many definitions.
 
The point I was making was a doorbell is a transformer that is hard wired, an alarm transformer is a plugged in device into an outlet. As I stated before, I'm not a code expert but the safety Nazis I have at work would always balk at a plugged in device being routed behind a wall/hidden.
 
The point I was making was a doorbell is a transformer that is hard wired, an alarm transformer is a plugged in device into an outlet. As I stated before, I'm not a code expert but the safety Nazis I have at work would always balk at a plugged in device being routed behind a wall/hidden.

I suspect the reason for this is the fact that a plugged in device is typically not connected to an in-wall rated wire (like the standard wall wart). However, your alarm panel transformer has screw down terminals so you can connect whatever type of wire you want. Therefore, you would choose wall rated wire.
 
On the subject of NEC code,

Is it okay to have structured wiring w/ routers, switches, and APC battrry backup in a clothes closet?

If yes, any distance requirement to the clothes?
 
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