UPB switch with "regular" toggle in three way?

[mrshanes]

Well, the title says it all. I'm starting to convert some of my regular toggle switches with Simply Automated UPB switches. Our foyer chandelier is extremely bright, so I want dimming control. It's on a 3 way with two switches about 15 feet away from each other. We only ever use one of the switches. Is it possible to replace just one of the toggle switches with a UPB switch and still get all the functions? I don't see anything like this in the diagrams and I don't want to tear into it and start guessing if it isn't possible.
Thanks

 

[standon]

You'd have to replace the slave switch with a remote - for instance the Simply Automated USR switch. Use the US2-40 for the master switch. Every house is wired differently, when I replaced my switches, I had major issues using the diagrams provided in the instructions.

 

[rismoney]

I like the using the 1140 for the master switch. While it appears less versatile than the 240, the 1140 controls to local load directly. I use 240s mostly for the 4 button single rocker config, which comes in handy in areas where I need flexibility. With a single load control there is little benefit for a 240 you will realize


Refer to this.
http://www.cocoontec...r-home-with-upb

Also Simply automated has wiring diagrams for the 1140 and 240 which include 3 way samples. Go to an electrician if they don't make sense or you can't discern what you got in your walls. With a chandelier, depending on number of bulbs and wattage it may or may not be appropriate for the switch. HAI has higher wattage switches than SA.

 

[mrshanes]

I like the using the 1140 for the master switch. While it appears less versatile than the 240, the 1140 controls to local load directly. I use 240s mostly for the 4 button single rocker config, which comes in handy in areas where I need flexibility. With a single load control there is little benefit for a 240 you will realize


Refer to this.
http://www.cocoontec...r-home-with-upb

Also Simply automated has wiring diagrams for the 1140 and 240 which include 3 way samples. Go to an electrician if they don't make sense or you can't discern what you got in your walls. With a chandelier, depending on number of bulbs and wattage it may or may not be appropriate for the switch. HAI has higher wattage switches than SA.

I have the 240 that I was going to use for the master. The diagrams make sense, but I just didn't see anything about installing this with a regular toggle switch. We just built the house a year ago, so I understand all of the wiring. I suppose since we never use the other toggle, I could remove it from the circuit and just use the 240.

 

[rismoney]

Is the other switch perhaps better suited for managing a different load? Use links for that other end with say another 240. I have a whole bunch of switches I have been re-associating with links, since I never use the local load at that location. New construction here too, and the electrician had a very warped concept of switch locations in common areas.

 

[sc2k2]

I like the using the 1140 for the master switch. While it appears less versatile than the 240, the 1140 controls to local load directly. I use 240s mostly for the 4 button single rocker config, which comes in handy in areas where I need flexibility. With a single load control there is little benefit for a 240 you will realize


Refer to this.
http://www.cocoontec...r-home-with-upb

Also Simply automated has wiring diagrams for the 1140 and 240 which include 3 way samples. Go to an electrician if they don't make sense or you can't discern what you got in your walls. With a chandelier, depending on number of bulbs and wattage it may or may not be appropriate for the switch. HAI has higher wattage switches than SA.

Can't you use the 240 with four rocker switches, with one to control a directly attached load and the other three programmed to control lamp modules spread throughout the house?

I'm glad I saw this thread because I was just about to post a very similar question:

I have three light switches (garage, downstairs, upstairs) that control a total of nine outdoor lights. I'm assuming that this is a "four way" switch - it doesn't matter which switch you toggle, it will either turn them all on or all off. I was hoping I could replace just one of the switches with a UPB Dimmer but it sounds like I"ll need to either get three Dimmers or one Dimmer and two USR slaves. Is that correct?

The other question I had relates to the USR: What constitutes a "traveller" wire? I have three or more wires in every box but haven't the foggiest what I should hook the traveller up to.

Thanks.

 

[oberkc]

We only ever use one of the switches.

Another option would be simply to remove the unused switch, since it is never used. This would avoid having to purchase two switches. Obviously, wiring would have to be properly identified and re-purposed. If the original wiring was a three-way switch loop (power fed originally to fixture), there may not be a neutral at the switch locations.

Our foyer chandelier is extremely bright,

Change out light bulbs?

 

[mrshanes]

Another option would be simply to remove the unused switch, since it is never used. This would avoid having to purchase two switches. Obviously, wiring would have to be properly identified and re-purposed. If the original wiring was a three-way switch loop (power fed originally to fixture), there may not be a neutral at the switch locations.




Change out light bulbs?

I stated that I may remove one of the switches from the circuit so I only need a single dimmer. That sounds like my best option at this point. I am going to change the bulbs out also. It currently has 15 60w bulbs in it now. I may change them to 40w, but it will still be very bright. It's a nice fixture hanging in our two story foyer in front of a window, so my wife would like to have it on and dimmed for looks. That's why I'm going through all this - for the wife! I think you ALL understand that...

 

[standon]

Can't you use the 240 with four rocker switches, with one to control a directly attached load and the other three programmed to control lamp modules spread throughout the house?

I'm glad I saw this thread because I was just about to post a very similar question:

I have three light switches (garage, downstairs, upstairs) that control a total of nine outdoor lights. I'm assuming that this is a "four way" switch - it doesn't matter which switch you toggle, it will either turn them all on or all off. I was hoping I could replace just one of the switches with a UPB Dimmer but it sounds like I"ll need to either get three Dimmers or one Dimmer and two USR slaves. Is that correct?

The other question I had relates to the USR: What constitutes a "traveller" wire? I have three or more wires in every box but haven't the foggiest what I should hook the traveller up to.

Thanks.

You just create a scene in the Upstart software that controls only one light, for instance "Scene Dim Lamp" and have one of the rockers or buttons on any upb switch activate or deactivate the scene.

In your 4 way installation, it could be wired multiple ways. Way more ways than the instructions cover, but generally the traveler wire is red and/or white/red striped. I'll add the standard disclaimer here because if you don't know what you are doing, you should consult an electrician - guesstimating can lead to destroyed equipment, fires or injury. If you are doing this yourself, I would pull all the switches out with wires still connected and see what goes where, you'll need a voltage tester. Figure out where the line comes in (from the breaker) and which switch connects to the lights. Make sure you turn the power off, especially when moving the switches, as the screws carry voltage. http://www.thecircui...o.htm#fourbasic

 

[batwater]

Can't you use the 240 with four rocker switches, with one to control a directly attached load and the other three programmed to control lamp modules spread throughout the house?

Yes you can. You can program any one of the 8 switches that the 240 has to control the load. In my family room I have a rocker in the top half that controls my breakfast bar lights (a scene) and then one of the 4 push buttons on the bottom half controls the wall socket (the load) that another lamp is plugged into. Love the flexibility the 240 affords!

-Ben

 

[tmbrown97]

I've done some truly crazy stuff with UPB in my house - I wish I had the time to diagram out all the examples! When I try to explain it even to technical people, it takes them a while to wrap their heads around it. Especially the sense that the rocker you interact with and the load controller behind it can be completely separate and unrelated. I have a single rocker that turns on/off 3 separate wired lighting loads AND an appliance module all at once as if they were all one. I also have hidden functions behind normal 1140 switches where a double-tap does a whole bunch more.

I was going to advise you read my article about UPB from my signature but rismoney beat me to it ^_^

For the OP - I had a room where there were two 3-way switches literally within arm's reach of one another - and I knew I'd never need the second, so I used the first to send full-time power over to the second location and put a 240 scene switch in the place. It's turned out to be quite useful. Otherwise a USR is pretty inexpensive if you have nothing better to do with that switch location. What you *can't* do is leave the old 3-way toggle in place. Also, depending on how the house is wired, you may have to make some "jumper" connections at the second switch location.

This takes a good understanding of electrical circuits... you get the hang of it with practice.