UPB wring question

mseicshn

Member
I am installing some SA switches right now. There seems to be 2 ways to wire a standard light. where the power runs to the switch first then on to the light OR where the power runs to the light and a switch leg runs down to the switch. I am dealing with the "switch leg" type. The "Standard 2-Way Installation" diagram on the documentation does not address this. So the wires on my us11-40 if I have 1 romex 14-2 wire that is running to my switch from the light can I use this switch? (please say yes!) I know white still goes to neutral but how do I use the black & brown????
 
I am installing some SA switches right now. There seems to be 2 ways to wire a standard light. where the power runs to the switch first then on to the light OR where the power runs to the light and a switch leg runs down to the switch. I am dealing with the "switch leg" type. The "Standard 2-Way Installation" diagram on the documentation does not address this. So the wires on my us11-40 if I have 1 romex 14-2 wire that is running to my switch from the light can I use this switch? (please say yes!) I know white still goes to neutral but how do I use the black & brown????

If you only have 2 wires at the switch and it is tailed off the light then you have no neutral at the switch. You will need to either pull a new wire (14/3) between the light and switch or buy a UPB switch that doesn't require a neutral. A normal switch does not use a neutral so if you had one it would be capped off in the box.

A third alternative would be to install an inline UPB module at the light and a normal UPB switch and them link them so the switch controls the inline module. (see the SA FAQ)
 
If you only have 2 wires at the switch and it is tailed off the light then you have no neutral at the switch. You will need to either pull a new wire (14/3) between the light and switch or buy a UPB switch that doesn't require a neutral. A normal switch does not use a neutral so if you had one it would be capped off in the box.

A third alternative would be to install an inline UPB module at the light and a normal UPB switch and them link them so the switch controls the inline module. (see the SA FAQ)
There are no UPB switches that don't require neutral. You have to follow wuench's 3rd option which is to rewire the light so that white is neutral and black is hot and wire the fixture with a fixture module. On the upb switch you wouldn't use brown - you'd instead use links to talk to the light. Not the most elegant and it costs a little extra but it works without pulling wire.
 
Is there a bundle of white all twisted together jammed in the back? I just did some kitchen lights that were like this (4 way with light at the end) - in this circumstance the brown on master goes to the 14/3 between switches and at each remote switch you tie together the reds (going to white/brown on USR40) and tie together the blacks (going to black on USR40), tie in all neutrals. At the end of the line where the light is, tie all blacks together, all whites together and red to white/brown on switch. On the master, black from power in goes to black on switch. Brown on switch to the black leading to first remote. Brown/white (or remote 1) to red traveller wire headed toward first remote switch. Whites tied together.
 
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