Wall mounted TV and remote AV equipm

reko19

Active Member
New construction, would like to locate my cable box, blue ray, and receiver out of site, somewhere in a closet approx 40' away. Cable box has 1 HDMI and 1 Component out. Planning to have 2-HDMI cables and 3-Cat6 possibly for HDBaseT between the TV and the closet. TV has it's own Ethernet connection. I am not sure what is the distance limitation for HDMI. Am I missing anyrhing?

Also, I wouldn't necessarily have my receiver ON on a daily basis, only when I want to watch a movie, etc. There is only one HDMI output in the back of the cable box. Do I use a Y-splitter for HDMI and plug one end into receiver and the other to the HDBaseT box? Thanks.
 
I'm preparing to do the same thing... in my case I'm using an HDMI over Cat5 extender, kinda like that box you linked. I picked up a receiver that does the HDMI switching, so I'll only need a single HDMI connection from my receiver back to the TV, which will go through that box and run over Cat5. The box I'm using also handles the IR Repeater function for me.

You might find that going from using and not using the receiver is a pain; built-in speakers on flat panels absolutely suck, and in order to simplify remote use, it's far easier to set the remote to control the receiver volume and use it 100% of the time. To go back in forth you'll either have to toggle settings on the TV or fumble with multiple remotes.

As far as HDMI distance, there's no set limit; it depends on the quality and gauge of cable you use; they also make active HDMI repeaters that can come into play - the good cables tend to max out around 40ft... but if you're using the HDBaseT box, does it matter? Where does that thing come into play? Also I'd be wary of that particular extender - it's pretty pricey and says it supports high def, but the specs say it has a limit of 1280x1020 (1080p is 1920x1080). Many people use the term HDBaseT for things that are just generic extenders not using that chipset.

Last, for splitting the output of the cable box, you can either use a splitter, or often the cable box will also have separate audio outs you could run to the stereo. When using a splitter, some nuances come up - if it's a cheaper one, whichever device is on first will do the negotiation and set resolution; when the 2nd is switched on, if it doesn't support the same, it won't get the signal.

You might consider what I'm doing - that way I'll run speaker wire to the soundbar and a single Cat 5 (two in your case to hook the TV up too) and that's it. But also run some form of conduit from the TV to the attic or equipment location so you can handle changing technology.
 
I'm preparing to do the same thing... in my case I'm using an HDMI over Cat5 extender, kinda like that box you linked. I picked up a receiver that does the HDMI switching, so I'll only need a single HDMI connection from my receiver back to the TV, which will go through that box and run over Cat5. The box I'm using also handles the IR Repeater function for me.

You might find that going from using and not using the receiver is a pain; built-in speakers on flat panels absolutely suck, and in order to simplify remote use, it's far easier to set the remote to control the receiver volume and use it 100% of the time. To go back in forth you'll either have to toggle settings on the TV or fumble with multiple remotes.

As far as HDMI distance, there's no set limit; it depends on the quality and gauge of cable you use; they also make active HDMI repeaters that can come into play - the good cables tend to max out around 40ft... but if you're using the HDBaseT box, does it matter? Where does that thing come into play? Also I'd be wary of that particular extender - it's pretty pricey and says it supports high def, but the specs say it has a limit of 1280x1020 (1080p is 1920x1080). Many people use the term HDBaseT for things that are just generic extenders not using that chipset.

Last, for splitting the output of the cable box, you can either use a splitter, or often the cable box will also have separate audio outs you could run to the stereo. When using a splitter, some nuances come up - if it's a cheaper one, whichever device is on first will do the negotiation and set resolution; when the 2nd is switched on, if it doesn't support the same, it won't get the signal.

You might consider what I'm doing - that way I'll run speaker wire to the soundbar and a single Cat 5 (two in your case to hook the TV up too) and that's it. But also run some form of conduit from the TV to the attic or equipment location so you can handle changing technology.
I am looking to probably have 4xCAT6 runs (one for HDBase T, one for IR, one for Ethernet, one spare) as well as speakers wires. One point to think about is how to use your receiver with a smart TV so when you are streaming netflix you are not limited to your tv speakers.
 
That's very true... Right now I have dumb TV's, so there's no point... for years I didn't bother switching the receiver, but instead had the TV's Audio Out going to the receiver - then switched sources through the TV; but now with HDMI everything is going the direction of having HDMI through the receiver so it can handle the switching as well as the best audio. For Netflix/Hulu/Amazon/Pandora, those come through both a Roku and the BluRay player, so they're still a source.

I have run low level audio through Cat5 before using homemade adapters - I was screwing around and cascaded a single music source through 6 offices around my office building to amplified speaker sets in each office, and there was no noise pickup; so it'd be very easy to do that or similar to get the low level from the TV back to the receiver on just plain Cat5; I'm curious, what sort of outputs does the TV have on it? I just looked up a random current LG 60", and it's only audio output is an optical; so for that you'd be stuck with stock speakers for the built-in smart apps, or you have to buy a toslink to RJ45 adapter... That's a bit unfriendly!
 
It was bugging me that there were some inconsistencies in the specs, so I found the product on the manufacturer's web site.

Assuming it works as promised, that'd be a handy unit - over a single run of Cat6 it'll carry 10/100 ethernet, HDMI 1.4, and IR. It includes the IR emitters/receivers, and breaks out the ethernet for the Smart TV. So, you'll be able to use a single Cat6 run and have 3 spares, if you run 4 as planned.

Just search around for better pricing - I found it averaging around $300 from a simple search.
 
I'd run the HDMI, 50', and have a couple spare cat6 for use as an hdbaseT or HDMI extender. Plus a category cable for LAN, plus 1 for IR/232/spare.

Plus the empty conduit. Futureproofing is the essence of prewiring. Don't wire for what you have now, wire for whatever you may ever need.

RG6 x 2 to the display may also be a consideration, though it's pretty unlikely you'll use it for a 5.1 setup.
 
It was bugging me that there were some inconsistencies in the specs, so I found the product on the manufacturer's web site.

Assuming it works as promised, that'd be a handy unit - over a single run of Cat6 it'll carry 10/100 ethernet, HDMI 1.4, and IR. It includes the IR emitters/receivers, and breaks out the ethernet for the Smart TV. So, you'll be able to use a single Cat6 run and have 3 spares, if you run 4 as planned.

Just search around for better pricing - I found it averaging around $300 from a simple search.
Interestingly enough, I did not put an external link to the product in my post above. Funny how this works, free advertisement. Looking at the link, I agree it is overpriced it is sold for $200 in many places.
Thanks everyone for the input, I think I avoided a costly mistake of not installing Cat6 at all. My final plan is two 50' feet HDMI, four CAT6, and a smurf tube between the two locations.
 
Make sure the conduit (orange or blue) is large enough to accommodate a new HDMI cable connector. Some are a little bulky. The empty conduit will allow you to replace the HDMI cable(s) with a new spec, in 10 years. I think most people use 1.5 inch conduit.
 
Make sure the conduit (orange or blue) is large enough to accommodate a new HDMI cable connector. Some are a little bulky. The empty conduit will allow you to replace the HDMI cable(s) with a new spec, in 10 years. I think most people use 1.5 inch conduit.
got it, thanks
 
Along that path, if anyone finds themselves in a situation where the conduit isn't large enough, RapidRun cables are a great alternative - they have detachable ends so you can pull them through conduit. I've used them when wiring up conference room tables via in-gound conduit and they worked out great.
 
Also, any catx extender would work, if the HDMI connector won't fit, but adds cost and reliability issues.

I think RapidRun's HDMI solution is just an extender, as you can't field terminate HDMI.
 
No it's not an extender - it's a complete system with base cables and "flying leads" for ends. You match them up and attach an end to the base cable. The end can be a flying lead or a wall plate.
http://www.amazon.com/mn/search/?_encoding=UTF8&tag=unhappily-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=rapidrun%20hdmi&url=search-alias%3Daps
 
And the RapidRun Digital Runner cable for that use is...STP, 4 pair, plus some mini coax wires.

http://www.quiktron.com/PDFs/QT_RR_Brochure.pdf

Up to 50', passive. More than 50', powered.

Less expensive solutions available, but the RapidRun concept is very slick, fast to install, and has a nice margin.

HDBaseT seems to be replacing HDMI extenders, anyway, for long HDMI runs.
 
Yup - it's not for everyone, but for some, it's the best/only solution. All in all, the specs aren't bad! And the raw cables come with pull-heads on them already making them very efficient, which can be good when your installer budgets $125/hour!
 
I am looking to probably have 4xCAT6 runs (one for HDBase T, one for IR, one for Ethernet, one spare) as well as speakers wires. One point to think about is how to use your receiver with a smart TV so when you are streaming netflix you are not limited to your tv speakers.

Most of the smart TVs will put their audio out for just this reason. As long as you have wires for a back channel, you should be fine.
 
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