What type of conduit?
- Thread starter doogie04
- Start date
tmbrown97
Senior Member
There are different schools of thought on conduit... For LV there is that flexible ribbed stuff but those ribs can also be a pain too with things getting caught on them - but, it's flexible enough to run anywhere you want without having to cut and join pieces. Otherwise the typical gray PVC you see in the Electrical area of the big box home improvement stores is great - sized appropriately for what you're running.
That said, most people don't use it for typical runs like to a couple jacks in the wall or to keypads - it's more for future proofing or to do big chases from the basement to the attic. For stuff like that, a couple 2" runs can be nice. Getting into typical walls isn't too hard depending on the home's construction.
For TVs where things are constantly changing, it's not a bad idea - or at the very least to have some conduit between the TV and wherever the AV equipment is housed.
That said, most people don't use it for typical runs like to a couple jacks in the wall or to keypads - it's more for future proofing or to do big chases from the basement to the attic. For stuff like that, a couple 2" runs can be nice. Getting into typical walls isn't too hard depending on the home's construction.
For TVs where things are constantly changing, it's not a bad idea - or at the very least to have some conduit between the TV and wherever the AV equipment is housed.
For a riser/future chase, I'd suggest at least a pair of 3".
As far as behind the TV, for a box to box or LV combo plate to scoop, 1" is large if you don't have to contend with premade cable, otherwise it's about a 2" minimum I'd say, then you're never going to find boxes that support that size KO.
I'd actually suggest to NOT use conduit if the TV and other equipment is located off the same bay and look into an appropriately sized mud ring/plate option. Easy enough to drop what is needed.
Keep in mind, ALL the premade cabling for AV is pretty much a huge no-no for inwall use, conduit or not. There are rated assemblies, but most do not look into that factor.
As far as behind the TV, for a box to box or LV combo plate to scoop, 1" is large if you don't have to contend with premade cable, otherwise it's about a 2" minimum I'd say, then you're never going to find boxes that support that size KO.
I'd actually suggest to NOT use conduit if the TV and other equipment is located off the same bay and look into an appropriately sized mud ring/plate option. Easy enough to drop what is needed.
Keep in mind, ALL the premade cabling for AV is pretty much a huge no-no for inwall use, conduit or not. There are rated assemblies, but most do not look into that factor.
tmbrown97
Senior Member
Along those lines, the RapidRun cables solve a couple of those issues - they're rated appropriately for in-wall use, and the heads detach so they can run through any conduit.
A lot of people set out thinking they want conduit to every run for total future-proofing but I don't hear of people going through with it often. At the end of the day, with Cat6 you'll be well suited for anything that'll come out in the next 10 years - just plan ahead within reason and know your house and where to run things. Worst case down the line, drywall is easy to repair; or if you're careful and smart about it, a couple 1-gang access holes with blanks can hide the holes for a while. I have a couple of those still behind doors, in a pantry or closet, and under a vanity. You'd never notice if you weren't looking for them. Point being, you need to weigh the cost and effort of installing it vs. what it might take to add one more wire somewhere down the road.
A lot of people set out thinking they want conduit to every run for total future-proofing but I don't hear of people going through with it often. At the end of the day, with Cat6 you'll be well suited for anything that'll come out in the next 10 years - just plan ahead within reason and know your house and where to run things. Worst case down the line, drywall is easy to repair; or if you're careful and smart about it, a couple 1-gang access holes with blanks can hide the holes for a while. I have a couple of those still behind doors, in a pantry or closet, and under a vanity. You'd never notice if you weren't looking for them. Point being, you need to weigh the cost and effort of installing it vs. what it might take to add one more wire somewhere down the road.
Thanks for the tips guy, again. I'm definitely not doing conduit everywhere. If anything, at a few key locations I'm going to drop 10' lengths from the wall jack up to the nearest high-hat. This way I can pop the light and make the transition from the ceiling to the wall if necessary. I also don't foresee changing out my Ethernet drops any time in the next decade -- which reduces my need for conduit significantly. I'll be field terminating all the RCA/Coax and Ethernet so I can stick with narrower tubes. Although, those rapid run cables are pretty sweet.
In terms of the type of conduit. Anyone used :
1) Pex (like this)
2) Southwire Ultratite (like this)?
3) ElectriFlex (like this)? or
4) something like this Hubbel one?
In terms of the type of conduit. Anyone used :
1) Pex (like this)
2) Southwire Ultratite (like this)?
3) ElectriFlex (like this)? or
4) something like this Hubbel one?
tmbrown97
Senior Member
Honestly I've only used either the Orange version of this stuff: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-2-in-x-25-ft-Electrical-Non-Metallic-Tubing-12005-025/100569078?N=bohlZ2dq - or standard gray electrical rigid or in rare cases standard metal conduit - just the stuff you see in the electrical isle of Home Depot.
The Pex is for water, and honestly I don't know if there are any rules for using those other conduit types but they're probably overkill at the least.
The Pex is for water, and honestly I don't know if there are any rules for using those other conduit types but they're probably overkill at the least.
1. Against code, no PLUMBING piping is allowed to be used as conduit.
2,3,& 4. Are commonly referred to as sealtite in the trade. Some have corrugated metal covered by the NM portion. The ones shown are all equivalent to each other. No different than buying Romex brand cable vs. a competitor's NM.
Sealtite is significantly smaller inside than a normal piece of similar trade sized conduit.
2,3,& 4. Are commonly referred to as sealtite in the trade. Some have corrugated metal covered by the NM portion. The ones shown are all equivalent to each other. No different than buying Romex brand cable vs. a competitor's NM.
Sealtite is significantly smaller inside than a normal piece of similar trade sized conduit.
The flex is usually horrible to fish through with a standard steel snake. I've actually pushed fittings apart (for those that buy in lengths from the big box blue and orange stores) or put the snake straight through the side on a tougher snake.
Usually flex stinks for re-entering and adding more cabling....unless it's kept exceptionally straight when it's run. Just my experiences from the field. Usually strings end up wrapped around the cabling that is pulled in with it so I'm generally not a fan of it...then it requires lube and a hope that you don't damage the existing cabling.
Usually flex stinks for re-entering and adding more cabling....unless it's kept exceptionally straight when it's run. Just my experiences from the field. Usually strings end up wrapped around the cabling that is pulled in with it so I'm generally not a fan of it...then it requires lube and a hope that you don't damage the existing cabling.
Neurorad
Senior Member
I've kept my flex conduit runs pretty straight, and have only used fiberglass rods in them. Not any real issues, but adding cables one at a time can be difficult, with cables binding to each other. If you plan on many future cables, piecemeal, I'd say try to use multiple runs of conduit, for a basement -> attic chase.
Mostly, a conduit to a TV location will be used for a single future HDMI cable (which han't been invented yet). Run cat6 x3 + RG6 x2, plus a current HDMI cable, outside of the empty conduit, and I think you'll be set for 95% of needs. If you think you may need more, add a couple runs of cat6 outside of the empty conduit (cat6 x5 total).
I feel that residential conduit is for futureproofing, not for current needs. Run the cables that you know you will need outside of the empty conduit.
Mostly, a conduit to a TV location will be used for a single future HDMI cable (which han't been invented yet). Run cat6 x3 + RG6 x2, plus a current HDMI cable, outside of the empty conduit, and I think you'll be set for 95% of needs. If you think you may need more, add a couple runs of cat6 outside of the empty conduit (cat6 x5 total).
I feel that residential conduit is for futureproofing, not for current needs. Run the cables that you know you will need outside of the empty conduit.
Similar threads
