Wired Recessed Door Sensors - How To Install

[Bzncrewjr]

I'm going to resurrect this thread from last year because I have a similar question.
 
How should I pull the alarm wire for this window?  There will be a substantial trim (see photo) such that pulling the wire probably means drilling through the side of the wooden window trim.
 
The wood will be stained and finished.  So how do I pull a wire and keep it from getting damaged during the carpenter's finishing process?
 
What's there now:
 

 
 
How it is finished.

 
--Russ

 

[Del91574]

Depends on what contacts you're intending on installing, if drilling the sills is out of the question or not and how the window operates. All sorts of variables. You need to answer the first 3 before you can determine the wire path.

 

[Bzncrewjr]

It seems surface contacts are the easiest without making a mess of the window.  This is what I was looking to do.  However, in this example, the sheetrock comes close to the window, whereas we will have a wooden frame/trim.   The windows slides up and there will be a large sill.  I'd also like to utilized 2 magnets to facilitate a "venting" position. 
 

 
 
--Russ

 

[giansiro]

In this case I would recommend a pill switches with a tape. 

 

[Del91574]

Careful drilling with a 3/16" or similar bit and something like a Honeywell PAL would be my choice. Not a fan of the "pill" contacts and exposed cabling. When done properly, the contact would cover any wire path. The PAL's give enough options for wire entry.
 
Recessed would be actually the easiest.

 

[Bzncrewjr]

This is one of the actual sliding up/down windows (with the window open).
It doesn't seem to allow for a switch to be recessed into the side track.   And I want a "vented" magnet location.
So I see my only path is to drill through the side of that wood trim.   That's the easy part.  
Then what happens when the finish guys come and sand the wood and stain/seal it.  My little 22/4 wire sticking out gets beat up and trashed.
 
Here's my idea and tell me if I'm being stupid.  
Fish a stiff wire similar to a paper clip through the drilled hole and attach it to my 22/4 wire that will ultimately go to the switch behind the wall.  Let the stiff wire hang out so the finishers/sheetrockers and do their thing and sand/stain/finish the wood.   Then pull it back out with my alarm wire to attach to the switch.
 
--Russ
 
 
 
 

 

[video321]

My windows are trimmed out as well and they're deep as I have 2x6 exterior. I used the tane pills and have them position as you have marked in the above pic. However, I didn't plan on venting so they are tucked into the corner.

 

[giansiro]

The Recessed switch its not an option in this case. 

 

[Del91574]

I'd probably go higher with the contact, just at the top of the miter of the sash.....but it's a personal choice item.
 
The key here would be to take your cable, tie a knot near the end and then push the slack back in the wall. Whatever happens would only happen to the knot and the remaining cable is fine and safe inside the wall.
 
In 20 years of installation, very rarely have I seen painters, carpenters kill the wire, assuming drilling through the extension jamb. Sheetrockers are a different story, but this comes down to being involved with the job and catching the damage as it happens, plan a site visit after the jambs are wrapped with sheetrock.

 

[Bzncrewjr]

I'd probably go higher with the contact, just at the top of the miter of the sash.....but it's a personal choice item.

Yes..I will definitely put the switch higher.   That was the only photo I had to illustrate.
 
Thanks for the feedback.  That makes sense.   I'll just tie a knot and push the slack back.     The last inch will be cut off anyway, so it will allow the finishers latitude to sand/scrape/finish away and then I can pull the wire back through for the connections.  KISS. 
 
YES!   This is why I post questions here.  Great solutions.
 
--Russ

 

[JosephSadler]

Having knowledge of the best for door sensors is very essential. Basically making windows and doors impact is more important. This additional reading will help a lot and for the door sensors various useful sources are available. Installing, repairing needs much of attention during home renovation as well.

 

[newalarm]

in short, as I am sure others will chime in.
1) yes on running the wire. you will need wire.
2) a forstener bit.
3) there are crimp connectors you should use. these are squeezed about both the leads from the sensor and the wire running back to your alarm control. some are filled with conductive jelly so as to be highly water resistant. NO on the tape idea. it will dry out.
3.1) pressure holds the contact inside the jamb. it should be a tight fit.
 
Wire it all up before the sheetrock. test after sheetrock goes up, as soon as possible, to see if the crazy sheetrock guys damaged your wires.

On 3, I am pretty sure it is not conductive, but insulating. I was curious about that stuff and did some reading and was surprised to find the the jelly acts to insulate, or keep out contaminants, notably air and water.

 

[newalarm]

I'd probably go higher with the contact, just at the top of the miter of the sash.....but it's a personal choice item.
 
The key here would be to take your cable, tie a knot near the end and then push the slack back in the wall. Whatever happens would only happen to the knot and the remaining cable is fine and safe inside the wall.
 
In 20 years of installation, very rarely have I seen painters, carpenters kill the wire, assuming drilling through the extension jamb. Sheetrockers are a different story, but this comes down to being involved with the job and catching the damage as it happens, plan a site visit after the jambs are wrapped with sheetrock.

I would assume you 'test' the wire after sheet rock installed? otherwise, you may not know until it is too late. Ideally, you want to catch problems before taping and mud goes up.

 

[Del91574]

I would assume you 'test' the wire after sheet rock installed? otherwise, you may not know until it is too late. Ideally, you want to catch problems before taping and mud goes up.

Knowing how to keep your wire out of the way of other trades is half the battle. Second would be (if you're really worried) install nailplates where the cable goes through the extension jamb and framing.
 
I've been wiring houses for 20 years and the amount of wires I've had hit are minimal at best. Not even a percentage. That said, with the proliferation of spray foam and the methods to trim the excess, care must be taken to keep your slack inside the wall and out of the way.
 
Very very rarely have I had to meter out the cable after a sheetrock install.